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Audi S3 GT3582R stroker Build (previously GT3071r)
- Thread starter tufftybloke
- Start date
Backdraft
Guest
With the exhaust, you could get a silencer bypass valve. When you want it nice and loud you just have to flick the switch!
Not really that bothered tbh... whole point of the project was OEM/stealth so a quieter exhaust will be fine...
<tuffty/>
Found a bit of time today to finally fit the boost gauge pod and wire up the Liquid so that I can still use my OBD port socket for VAGCOM without having to unplug the Liquid...
First the Liquid... Bought 2 switches from Maplins... the rocker is so that I can switch the K-Line between the socket and the Liquid and a locking push button switch so I can turn the power to the liquid on/off if I needed too. I cut a length of CAT 5 network cable as the Liquid uses a CAT 5 plug and socket for a connection...
Decided that I wanted the switches out of the way where they couldn't be seen and where I wouldn't knock them accidentally so fitted them at the back of the cubby hole under the steering wheel where the service books etc go... access can be gained through the holes under the cubby hole...
Wired up the OBD socket so that it would power the Liquid and cut the K-Line so it can be switched...
Plugged it all together and all works just fine...
Next I set to work on the piller pod. I was going to trim it in a similar fabric to the interior but the 2 different bits I ordered where still no close match so I painted it in a flat black that looks rather like the rubber texture of some of the dash elements in the car...
To fix it on the A piller trim I drilled and countersunk some holes and screwed in self tappers. I then filled the screws over with plastic filler, sanded and painted. I applied hot glue to the screws on the other side to hold them in a bit better...
Fitted it all back in the car and doesn't look too bad
And a close up...
All in all a good days work and pleased with the results....
<tuffty/>
First the Liquid... Bought 2 switches from Maplins... the rocker is so that I can switch the K-Line between the socket and the Liquid and a locking push button switch so I can turn the power to the liquid on/off if I needed too. I cut a length of CAT 5 network cable as the Liquid uses a CAT 5 plug and socket for a connection...
Decided that I wanted the switches out of the way where they couldn't be seen and where I wouldn't knock them accidentally so fitted them at the back of the cubby hole under the steering wheel where the service books etc go... access can be gained through the holes under the cubby hole...
Wired up the OBD socket so that it would power the Liquid and cut the K-Line so it can be switched...
Plugged it all together and all works just fine...
Next I set to work on the piller pod. I was going to trim it in a similar fabric to the interior but the 2 different bits I ordered where still no close match so I painted it in a flat black that looks rather like the rubber texture of some of the dash elements in the car...
To fix it on the A piller trim I drilled and countersunk some holes and screwed in self tappers. I then filled the screws over with plastic filler, sanded and painted. I applied hot glue to the screws on the other side to hold them in a bit better...
Fitted it all back in the car and doesn't look too bad
And a close up...
All in all a good days work and pleased with the results....
<tuffty/>
can you make a real-time comparison between the liquid racing gauge and this gauge? do they show the same?
thank you.
thank you.
Sadly on my car, not really...
First problem is the Liquids std boost readings come from the MAP sensor so it can't read vacuum for a start and has a max pressure reading of 1.5bar, my boost is currently up at 1.8bar so its essentially pointless..
Jim at Race Diagnostics has added an 'AGU' mode which uses a calculation from the MAF. I have tried this and it does show vacuum but its a little bit out on mine (gauge reads -0.6bar vacuum while Liquid shows -0.8bar vacuum) and I am not sure if this is the fault of the Liquid as my map has been tweaked to take into account I am maxing the MAF....
I have no reason to believe that on a K04 turbo'd S3 this will be accurate as Jim has tested it to be so...
To be honest, I never bought the Liquid to use as a boost gauge anyway and while it can do it, I wouldn't say it was a substitute... the Liquid is a damn fine diagnostic tool to have in the car though as its far more convenient than having a laptop and VAGCOM permanently plugged in and its cool too... its a way to identify if you have a problem then use VAGCOM to look into it further..
<tuffty/>
but i know that the liquid gauge has a feature in the menu...smth with "turbo upgrade"..doesn't that change the readings for a bigger turbo, meaning possible bigger boost? i never used that set-up.
anyway, i know that it cannot be as precise as an "old fashion gauge", but I would like to know the difference.
and my boost pressure is up to 1.6 and the gauge shows it. i do not ...but i believe it shows up to 1.8?
anyway, i know that it cannot be as precise as an "old fashion gauge", but I would like to know the difference.
and my boost pressure is up to 1.6 and the gauge shows it. i do not ...but i believe it shows up to 1.8?
std map sensor is pegged at 1.55bar so beyond this its "guesswork" on finding something else you can add a factor to to guesstimate the boost
but i know that the liquid gauge has a feature in the menu...smth with "turbo upgrade"..doesn't that change the readings for a bigger turbo, meaning possible bigger boost? i never used that set-up.
anyway, i know that it cannot be as precise as an "old fashion gauge", but I would like to know the difference.
Yes, the liquid does have this 'big turbo' feature however it won't make any difference on the accuracy in my case.... as I have already said, the MAF scaling on my map is different to that of std and as the Liquid uses this in and applies a correction factor of its own it will still be out by the same amount... As I haven't tried this or seen this on any other car then I can't comment with any degree of accuracy here, my findings are just based on my car and its current setup... other installations may work better than mine... however... the liquid does have a correction factor setting that allows you to compensate for fitting larger MAF bodies such as the RS4 MAF or the TT Mod Shack 'MOFO'.
Once I know the final power output of my car with its current set of mods etc I am going to see if I can tweak this setting to calibrate the liquids readings with my power output and see what happens from there.
..as Bill said above... the Liquid does display up to 2 bar on the gauge however it will only ever show the max value of the MAP sensor which in this case is 1.55bar... Using the MAP sensor setting in liquid will only ever show that as a max..
<tuffty/>
Managed to pinch a ramp today because Bill had a nice big box for me containing...
Obviously some work was going to be needed to get it to fit...
A bit of creative chopping and welding tape (tm)...
All fitted... (really pants pic quality as I only had my phone with me...)
Here is the old back box...
I will sort out a pic of the tail pipes now its fitted but I will be chopping a section out first as the tailpipes stick out a little too far for my liking..
In terms of noise its like a different car... I realised shortly after fitting the original system that it was too loud for my taste... sounded brilliant on boost though but I like my car to be quiet with a hint of sportiness and the noise killed the sleeper/OEM look I have been building my car around.
All in all very please and looks like the Milltek isn't at all restrictive although its not quite 3"...
I now have all the bits ready to finish off the last of this current crop of mods and hopefully get a proper run on a dyno to baseline the power of the car before I decide what is next to do (always evolving)
<tuffty/>
Obviously some work was going to be needed to get it to fit...
A bit of creative chopping and welding tape (tm)...
All fitted... (really pants pic quality as I only had my phone with me...)
Here is the old back box...
I will sort out a pic of the tail pipes now its fitted but I will be chopping a section out first as the tailpipes stick out a little too far for my liking..
In terms of noise its like a different car... I realised shortly after fitting the original system that it was too loud for my taste... sounded brilliant on boost though but I like my car to be quiet with a hint of sportiness and the noise killed the sleeper/OEM look I have been building my car around.
All in all very please and looks like the Milltek isn't at all restrictive although its not quite 3"...
I now have all the bits ready to finish off the last of this current crop of mods and hopefully get a proper run on a dyno to baseline the power of the car before I decide what is next to do (always evolving)
<tuffty/>
Good stuff Paul.
Cars looking good. If only my car was a 4WD I would have one of these GT30's anyday
As your running 1.8 bar and so am I on the GT2871R, is it worth having the Forge Supersize DV on?
I don't know yet... guess I could have just relocated my 007p to a better position than it is currently but I am getting a proper chirp rather than the normal whoosh and what sounds like compressor stall so seemed like a good idea...
I have the thing now so I may as well fit it and the GT30 does shift a larger volume of air at any given boost than a GT28 so might as well give it a go...
Its the EGT's giving me a headache atm... should be sorted once I get the boss welded into the downpipe though so I can relocate the probe...
Seems that the S3 map (and no doubt a LCR too) gets agitated when the EGT's head much over 900 degrees on boost and switched to a different table freezing live adaption (block 001) and dumping fuel... I have fitted another EGT probe as the previous one had to be modded a tad to get it into the exhaust mani and will not be in a useful state when I remove it.
Currently its dangling above the exhaust mani and the overfuelling issue is no longer a problem but it now seems that the ECU doesn't like EGT's below a certain level either... the probe is only picking up under bonnet temps atm and the ECU is holding boost back... the occasional times the temps are getting over 50 degrees or more (most I have seen is 130 degrees) then I seem to get more boost and the car pulls like a train...
I also have a large port head coming my way so will be adding that to the mix too
<tuffty/>
I also have a large port head coming my way so will be adding that to the mix too
<tuffty/>
I should have considered getting a large port head when I had my engine built.
The Large head port will definitely help shift more air plus a large port manifold will be a good idea but probably not necessary.
By the way I saw some New Audi S3 FMIC they are come as standard are of full length plus value for money apparently around £300 from main dealers.
Righty... not much to report as yet, just waiting on the EGT probe boss to be made and hopefully that should close the door on the EGT issue once and for all...
Was at GTI Spring fest this weekend at Santa Pod, while I was there I picked up the soon to be latest edition to the mods....
Large port head
I have started saving my pennies for a set of Supertech valves and looking at a set of Cat Cams springs and retainers too...
Will try and get a power run in prior to fitting the large port to see what difference it makes... Bill is getting his dyno soon so should make things a bit easier to get sorted...
I am really going to try and get it all done for GTI Inters... be nice to be running the engine at its full potential for then...
Another job I have lined up is the installation of all my stereo kit including the Andy Mac Stealth Sub which I bought over a year ago and still not fitted it!!! I have now ordered some speaker adaptors for my Focals and now my Golf is on the road again and the good weather appears to be here I can start spending some time after work getting it all fitted..
<tuffty/>
Was at GTI Spring fest this weekend at Santa Pod, while I was there I picked up the soon to be latest edition to the mods....
Large port head
I have started saving my pennies for a set of Supertech valves and looking at a set of Cat Cams springs and retainers too...
Will try and get a power run in prior to fitting the large port to see what difference it makes... Bill is getting his dyno soon so should make things a bit easier to get sorted...
I am really going to try and get it all done for GTI Inters... be nice to be running the engine at its full potential for then...
Another job I have lined up is the installation of all my stereo kit including the Andy Mac Stealth Sub which I bought over a year ago and still not fitted it!!! I have now ordered some speaker adaptors for my Focals and now my Golf is on the road again and the good weather appears to be here I can start spending some time after work getting it all fitted..
<tuffty/>
Nice One Paul the GT3071 will definitely flow better with the large head port and at the same time will make more Torque & power.
Another thing I found interesting is that Storm Developments have been using VW Passat Intake manifolds on there modifications and as those come with long runners I would assume they help with the Torque... only difference here is that the throttle body moved forward instead of sideways.
Another thing I found interesting is that Storm Developments have been using VW Passat Intake manifolds on there modifications and as those come with long runners I would assume they help with the Torque... only difference here is that the throttle body moved forward instead of sideways.
Small update... not much actual work done as yet just accumulating bits at the moment...
Got all the bits now to have a go at going 60mm charge pipe all round including modding the FMIC to take a 60mm outlet replacing the current 51mm ones and fitting the super size DV...
I have bought some Supertech valves and valve springs now and have started stripping the head ready for a light skim and new valve guides...
I will be using the cams and followers from my current small port head as I know these to be ok.
Notice the difference between the large port head in the foreground and a ported small port in the background..
...and a closer look at the inlet ports...
Ported small port
Non ported large port
One thing I did notice with this head is the threaded hole for the cam belt tensioner roller has a raised platform compared to all the other heads currently residing at Badger 5 so I will have to get this machined flush too...
My large port head
A N Other head...
In the process of sorting a rig out to compress valve springs without damaging the follower bore... the VAG kit seems a little belt and braces...
Still accumulating bits and need to get the existing valves out before I can do much else with the head...
I now have all the bits to fit the rest of my stereo gear now so may have a crack at that in the next week or so to keep things moving until I have everything ready to take the car off the road and get the head and 60mm charge pipework fitted...
<tuffty/>
Got all the bits now to have a go at going 60mm charge pipe all round including modding the FMIC to take a 60mm outlet replacing the current 51mm ones and fitting the super size DV...
I have bought some Supertech valves and valve springs now and have started stripping the head ready for a light skim and new valve guides...
I will be using the cams and followers from my current small port head as I know these to be ok.
Notice the difference between the large port head in the foreground and a ported small port in the background..
...and a closer look at the inlet ports...
Ported small port
Non ported large port
One thing I did notice with this head is the threaded hole for the cam belt tensioner roller has a raised platform compared to all the other heads currently residing at Badger 5 so I will have to get this machined flush too...
My large port head
A N Other head...
In the process of sorting a rig out to compress valve springs without damaging the follower bore... the VAG kit seems a little belt and braces...
Still accumulating bits and need to get the existing valves out before I can do much else with the head...
I now have all the bits to fit the rest of my stereo gear now so may have a crack at that in the next week or so to keep things moving until I have everything ready to take the car off the road and get the head and 60mm charge pipework fitted...
<tuffty/>
Just read this from start to finish - awesome build thread! Good luck with the next stages - I'm sure it'll get to be where you want it - you've done an excellent job so far. Respect to you and Bill!
Valves have arrived (thanks Mark)... Got a chance to take pics of them today... not very exciting I know but this wouldn't be a proper build thread if I didn't show them off
Supertech springs with titanium retainers and collets for the single groove valves...
Inconel exhaust valve (left) and black nitraded intake valve (right)
I have most of all I need now to get the next phase of mods done but I will probably wait a while before I actually get around to do it all as I want to be able to dyno the difference each of the tweaks makes and for that I will wait until Bill has got his dyno installed.
Plan is to get the EGT boss welded into the DP and fit the EGT probe properly... I will then baseline the cars power in its current configuration. Once that is done then I will do the 60mm charge pipe/FMIC upgrade and dyno that to see if the potential increase in flow develops any more power then see if I can turn up boost to get any more out... I will then fit the large port head and dyno that...
This should hopefully show what difference (if any) each of these additional mods can make so that anyone wanting to go big turbo can make their own mind up as to how far you wish to take your car..
<tuffty/>
Supertech springs with titanium retainers and collets for the single groove valves...
Inconel exhaust valve (left) and black nitraded intake valve (right)
I have most of all I need now to get the next phase of mods done but I will probably wait a while before I actually get around to do it all as I want to be able to dyno the difference each of the tweaks makes and for that I will wait until Bill has got his dyno installed.
Plan is to get the EGT boss welded into the DP and fit the EGT probe properly... I will then baseline the cars power in its current configuration. Once that is done then I will do the 60mm charge pipe/FMIC upgrade and dyno that to see if the potential increase in flow develops any more power then see if I can turn up boost to get any more out... I will then fit the large port head and dyno that...
This should hopefully show what difference (if any) each of these additional mods can make so that anyone wanting to go big turbo can make their own mind up as to how far you wish to take your car..
<tuffty/>
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