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So is that the inner anc. panel seals or actual door seals
Cos it is a neat trick untill you forget in your best clobber and goes all over your shoes
chrisxr2
Guest
What a carry on
After pulling the rear passenger door apart which is the worst leak, i discovered my nearest VAG garage is now 20 miles away. Got some of the sealant stuff from vw, After finally finding the right part number and explaining what i was after. Fitted it which is fiddly as it sticks like poo to a blanket, did not take the panell all the way of which i think with hindsight i should have. Just the bottom of the seal was gone when removed, not convinced on the sealant stuff so will maybe just use outdoor sealant on the others. Raining when i finished so we will see if the seal has worked tommorow.
After pulling the rear passenger door apart which is the worst leak, i discovered my nearest VAG garage is now 20 miles away. Got some of the sealant stuff from vw, After finally finding the right part number and explaining what i was after. Fitted it which is fiddly as it sticks like poo to a blanket, did not take the panell all the way of which i think with hindsight i should have. Just the bottom of the seal was gone when removed, not convinced on the sealant stuff so will maybe just use outdoor sealant on the others. Raining when i finished so we will see if the seal has worked tommorow.
mikeholroyd
Guest
On the first door that I did, I unbolted the carrier plate and resealed by putting sealer where the original seal was, bolting back together and then spreading what had squirted out on the outside of the seal.
On the other three, I left the carrier in place, and plastered sealer on the outer edge of the seal, half way up towards the windows. It's rained VERY hard since doing this, and there are definately no leaks there now from any of the doors, so I don't personally think it necessary to completely remove the carrier plate to do the job.
Have done the doors on my Octavia as well by the same method, no leaks here, but done for preventitive maintenance.
Photo guide here on octavia-vrs.com
http://octavia-vrs.com/technical/door_carriers.htm
Hope this helps
Mike
On the other three, I left the carrier in place, and plastered sealer on the outer edge of the seal, half way up towards the windows. It's rained VERY hard since doing this, and there are definately no leaks there now from any of the doors, so I don't personally think it necessary to completely remove the carrier plate to do the job.
Have done the doors on my Octavia as well by the same method, no leaks here, but done for preventitive maintenance.
Photo guide here on octavia-vrs.com
http://octavia-vrs.com/technical/door_carriers.htm
Hope this helps
Mike
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chrisxr2
Guest
appears the door has held fine, however prefer the method on the site linked above, is it a skoda garage you get the repair pack from and how much is it?? thanks in advance. It was just the bottom of the seal than had gone on my leon cupra r.
Does look a far better way to repair the leak, i guess there sealant is far better than "regular" sealant?
chrisxr2
Guest
probably not
probably no better than any outside sealant you could buy for your house i would think.
probably no better than any outside sealant you could buy for your house i would think.
mikeholroyd
Guest
No, not a Skoda dealer that's written this, octavia-vrs.com is simply a site giving loads of info on different jobs that can be done, and advise on how to solve common problems on the octavia, by a Briskoda member. He also has a sister site, fabia-vrs.com.
And no, it's not special sealant. Any silicon based sealant in a tube can be used. My Leon has been sealed with Wickes own clear silicon, at less than £3 per tube. And this has been used around the pollen filter housing and the plate around the electrical cable above the drivers footwell too! It makes for a cheap repair!
Hope that helps
Mike
And no, it's not special sealant. Any silicon based sealant in a tube can be used. My Leon has been sealed with Wickes own clear silicon, at less than £3 per tube. And this has been used around the pollen filter housing and the plate around the electrical cable above the drivers footwell too! It makes for a cheap repair!
Hope that helps
Mike
jogo78
Guest
Just attempted this and have somehow snapped a bit of the plastic window mechanism behind the metal plate. Not good and am very annoyed with myself. It's not even that tricky when you get into it and I think the other three doors will go a lot smoother now I know what not to do, hindsight is a beautiful thing.
mikeholroyd
Guest
Why have you gone behind the metal carrier plate? If you followed the instructions in the guide, you'd see you don't need to disturb the plate, just seal over the join!
Mike
I know this is a bit off-topic however my plastic connector snapped anyway and you will need to buy a whole new cable as unfortunately it's not possible to just buy it on it's own. for now my window is just secured but not working and I would be very interested if you manage decide to fit it yourself, to give some advice!
cheers and good luck mate!
OJleon
Guest
Done both my front doors this morning. I had to take OSF mechanism off fully as door latch mechanism also needed changing. But on NSF I undid all the bolts holding the mechanism on. Had a friend hold away from door while I cleaned off old sealant and put new on silicone sealant on. Had the car washed after and no more water leaks 
Done both my front doors this morning. I had to take OSF mechanism off fully as door latch mechanism also needed changing. But on NSF I undid all the bolts holding the mechanism on. Had a friend hold away from door while I cleaned off old sealant and put new on silicone sealant on. Had the car washed after and no more water leaks
You haven't got any guides for that have you mate (other than the vw vortex one http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1015107&postid=9506802#9506802)
cheers
jogo78
Guest
Well.. I thought i'd try to do a decent job and as i was cleaning off the foam to get a nice clean surface for the door seal putty to stick to and I guess we must have pulled the carrier plate a bit too much and strained the plastic causing it to snap. I should have just squirted a silocone bead all along it.
I'm now resigned to having a professional look at it.
OJleon
Guest
No sorry mate just taken so many of these off to do window regs and door latchs i can do it off the top of my head.
loopyleeinbath
Guest
CupraCool
Guest
My MY53 is soaked in 3 footwells (all except front passenger) Having read all of this thread I intend to give this fix a go asap. I'm not really DIY minded though so a bit worried about cocking something up!
Can I just clarify something about the Octavia VRS guide, does this also require 'loosening' the ancillary panel or can it be done with it completely in situ? I'm reading it as the latter which would make me feel more comfortable. The less taking apart I need to do the less chance of making an expensive mistake! I can probably handle taking the trim off and disconnecting a few connectors as have done this before to fit new speakers (albeit in in a previous non-Seat car)!
Also, I have a Wicks very near me. Any particular sealant I should be looking for? lots of people have mentioned 'low modulus' and external, but not knowing much about these things will the sealant be labeled as such or is there a number to look for or what?
Thanks to everyone on here providing the help and feedback. I will do the same. If I can do it then nobody should hold any fear of having a go themselves
Can I just clarify something about the Octavia VRS guide, does this also require 'loosening' the ancillary panel or can it be done with it completely in situ? I'm reading it as the latter which would make me feel more comfortable. The less taking apart I need to do the less chance of making an expensive mistake! I can probably handle taking the trim off and disconnecting a few connectors as have done this before to fit new speakers (albeit in in a previous non-Seat car)!
Also, I have a Wicks very near me. Any particular sealant I should be looking for? lots of people have mentioned 'low modulus' and external, but not knowing much about these things will the sealant be labeled as such or is there a number to look for or what?
Thanks to everyone on here providing the help and feedback. I will do the same. If I can do it then nobody should hold any fear of having a go themselves
mikeholroyd
Guest
My MY53 is soaked in 3 footwells (all except front passenger) Having read all of this thread I intend to give this fix a go asap. I'm not really DIY minded though so a bit worried about cocking something up!
Can I just clarify something about the Octavia VRS guide, does this also require 'loosening' the ancillary panel or can it be done with it completely in situ? I'm reading it as the latter which would make me feel more comfortable. The less taking apart I need to do the less chance of making an expensive mistake! I can probably handle taking the trim off and disconnecting a few connectors as have done this before to fit new speakers (albeit in in a previous non-Seat car)!
Also, I have a Wicks very near me. Any particular sealant I should be looking for? lots of people have mentioned 'low modulus' and external, but not knowing much about these things will the sealant be labeled as such or is there a number to look for or what?
Thanks to everyone on here providing the help and feedback. I will do the same. If I can do it then nobody should hold any fear of having a go themselves
Re Octavia VRS guide -- leave door carriers bolted in position, don't disturb them! Just put the bead of silicon on the outer panel, don't try to put it between carrier and door, it's not needed! 15 minutes per door from starting to take panel off to putting sealer on, then give it a couple of hours to cure before replacing door panels
Edit -- any silicon based sealer/ outdoor gutter sealer etc in a tube will do, octy vrs shows a black sealer, I've used clear, at the end of the day it's not seen anyway once the door panels are back on
Hope this helps
Edit again -- don't leave the front passenger door just because its dry -- seal that up as well, then you won't get any issues of leaking in the future
Mike
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Did this repair myself today, Real easy for those that are not sure about it.
My drivers door has a galvanised panel rather than the black one and this has a wide rubber seal, Is this an OEM part or an after-market one ?.
My drivers door has a galvanised panel rather than the black one and this has a wide rubber seal, Is this an OEM part or an after-market one ?.
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