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These arrived on Wednesday, don't know when I'll get around to fitting
them though what with work and the foul weather.
them though what with work and the foul weather.
Cheers, truss. Here's a link for the carbon wrap, loads of people on here use it. It comes from South Korea but mine was here inside a week.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...461679094&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MERFB:IID
Fitted the THS FR3 Engine Mounting System yesterday with the help of a mate with a lift. Sorry there's no pics but I forgot to take the camera to the garage, damn. These were relatively easy to fit with access to a four point lift and I reckon we'd have really struggled without it but as it was the job was completed in about an hour. We did one mounting at a time ie removing one and then replacing it before moving onto the next.
Parts we had to remove from above the engine were Strut Brace, Airbox and Battery Cover. The Expansion Tank and Power Steering Reservoir also had to be loosened and moved out of the way and then the Splash Gaurd from under the engine. Once the Aibox is off you can take the top off of the trunking which carries part of the wiring loom, underneath the wires there are holes to gain access to the mounting bolts. We then lifted the car, positioned an axle stand underneath to support the engine and then lowered the car until we were at the correct height. The engine mount can now be removed and refitted, simples.
We then lifted the car, moved the axle stand to the other side and did the same again.
When we had fitted the top two engine mounts it was time to move onto the DBM. Because of the stiffness of the top mounts there was no need to support the engine so we just lifted the car and changed the part.
We then put back all of the parts that were removed and congratulated ourselves on a job well done. When I started the engine I was supprised how little vibration there was in the cabin, hardly noticeable at all and I reckon if you did'nt know the parts had been changed you would'nt be able to tell.
Driving the car albeit a short distance so far the first thing you notice is that the car seems much more direct in putting the power down and there is now absolutely no movement in the gear stick when you accelerate and ease off.
All in all a worthy mod and with the SCN discount it's a good price too.
Parts we had to remove from above the engine were Strut Brace, Airbox and Battery Cover. The Expansion Tank and Power Steering Reservoir also had to be loosened and moved out of the way and then the Splash Gaurd from under the engine. Once the Aibox is off you can take the top off of the trunking which carries part of the wiring loom, underneath the wires there are holes to gain access to the mounting bolts. We then lifted the car, positioned an axle stand underneath to support the engine and then lowered the car until we were at the correct height. The engine mount can now be removed and refitted, simples.
We then lifted the car, moved the axle stand to the other side and did the same again.
When we had fitted the top two engine mounts it was time to move onto the DBM. Because of the stiffness of the top mounts there was no need to support the engine so we just lifted the car and changed the part.
We then put back all of the parts that were removed and congratulated ourselves on a job well done. When I started the engine I was supprised how little vibration there was in the cabin, hardly noticeable at all and I reckon if you did'nt know the parts had been changed you would'nt be able to tell.
Driving the car albeit a short distance so far the first thing you notice is that the car seems much more direct in putting the power down and there is now absolutely no movement in the gear stick when you accelerate and ease off.
All in all a worthy mod and with the SCN discount it's a good price too.
zzapp
Guest
hi. interesting building! would you recommend this engine mounts from THS?
I am considering buying the same for my LCR, now that the pound is so low
I am considering buying the same for my LCR, now that the pound is so low
I would definately recommend them. Power delivery is more precise and the traction control tells me off less, especially noticeable in this damp weather. Be sure to email THS to get your SCN discount.
A lot of people just uprate the Dogbone to help eliminate wheelhop and don't bother changing the top mounts. This is because you are most likely to suffer wheelhop when going in a straight line from a standing start and the Dogbone mount is the one that helps to stop the engine rocking transversely. Also it's a reletively cheap and easy mod.
Just fitted my New Jetex Open Cone Air Filter. Simple to fit, goes straight over the MAF Sensor.
It literally took longer to get the tools out than it did to do the job.
It literally took longer to get the tools out than it did to do the job.
Nice, very tidy bay.
Cheers Warren, I still need to do something about that damn dipstick though. Lol.
It's an FC-08001 and it cost £47.02 + P&P. Here's a link.
yea iv got the nurspeed at the moment but dont do nothing do you get a better sound mate
cheers
cheers
looking very good mate compliments the bay well hope you enjoy have you been out for a blast yet
looks really good that mate, a good decent size!
Keep us informed on any performance advantages.
Keep us informed on any performance advantages.
Here is a before and after Vag-Com log, the first is from my PREVIOUS set up and
the second is with the JETEX setup.
The previous set up shows a maximum mass flow of 194.17g/s,
The Jetex set up shows a maximum mass flow of 202g/s, a gain of 7.83g/s and if I'm correct
a potential power gain of just over 10 BHP.
Code:
Wednesday 21 October 2009 10:37:03
1ML 906 032 A 1.8l R4/5VT 0002
Group A: '003 Group B: '020 Group C: Not Running
RPM Mass Flow Load Ign. Timing Idle Stabilization Idle Stabilization Idle Stabilization Idle Stabilization
TIME TIME TIME
MARKER STAMP /min g/s % °BTDC STAMP CF CF CF CF STAMP
0 2160 34.11 73.3 22.5 0.4 0 0 0 0
0.91 2320 51.47 96.5 15.8 1.41 0 0 0 0
1.81 2520 73.36 100 10.5 2.21 0 0 0 0
2.61 2800 104.78 100 0 3.02 0 0 0 0
3.42 3080 108.08 100 1.5 3.82 0 0 0 0
4.32 3440 115.67 100 4.5 4.72 0 0 0 0
5.13 3720 128.69 100 6.8 5.63 0 0 0 0
6.03 4080 140.11 100 9.8 6.54 0 0 0 0
7.04 4440 152.81 100 12 7.44 0 0 0 0
7.84 4720 157.78 100 12.8 8.25 0 0 0 0
8.75 5000 172.17 100 14.3 9.15 0 0 0 0
9.55 5280 179.75 100 14.3 9.95 0 0 0 0
10.37 5560 186.94 100 14.3 10.86 0 0 0 0
11.28 5800 187.86 100 15 11.66 0 0 0 0
12.06 6000 191.53 100 15 12.48 0 0 0 0
12.88 6200 192.44 99.6 15.8 13.28 0 0 0 3
13.69 6400 192.14 98.4 16.5 14.17 0 3 3 3
14.59 6600 193.08 100 15.8 14.99 0 3 6 3
15.39 6760 194.17 98 15.8 15.9 0 2.3 6 2.3
16.4 6800 29.25 14.9 1.5 16.8 0 0 0 0
17.2 5480 11.92 9.8 5.3 17.6 0 0 0 0
18 5400 14.31 10.2 4.5 18.4 0 0 0 0
18.81 5280 13.31 9.8 5.3 19.21 0 0 0 0
Code:
Sunday 15 November 2009 06:48:11
1ML 906 032 A 1.8l R4/5VT 0002
Group A: '003 Group B: '020 Group C: Not Running
RPM Mass Flow Load Ign. Timing Idle Stabilization Idle Stabilization Idle Stabilization Idle Stabilization
TIME TIME TIME
MARKER STAMP /min g/s % °BTDC STAMP CF CF CF CF STAMP
636.31 1720 11.92 8.6 30.8 636.7 0 0 0 0
637.1 1800 31.39 81.6 18 637.52 0 0 0 0
637.92 1920 38.22 87.8 15 638.42 0 0 0 0
638.93 2160 51.19 92.5 11.3 639.33 0 0 0 0
639.73 2360 69.31 97.3 6 640.13 0 0 0 0
640.53 2640 95.61 100 0 641.04 0 0 0 0
641.44 2920 102.86 100 0 641.84 0 0 0 0
642.24 3240 112.06 100 4.5 642.64 0 0 0 0
643.04 3560 125.31 100 6 643.44 0 0 0 0
643.86 3840 133.06 100 7.5 644.35 0 0 0 0
644.77 4160 144.69 100 10.5 645.26 0 0 0 0
645.76 4520 158 100 12.8 646.16 0 0 0 0
646.56 4800 163.64 100 12.8 646.98 0 0 0 0
647.47 5120 174.89 100 14.3 647.87 0 0 0 0
648.29 5360 188.78 100 14.3 648.69 0 0 0 0
649.09 5600 194.94 100 14.3 649.49 0 0 0 0
649.89 5840 196.81 100 14.3 650.3 0 0 0 0
650.7 6040 197.47 100 16.5 651.1 0 0 0 0
651.5 6200 200.94 100 17.3 651.9 0 0 0 0
652.3 6400 201.03 99.2 19.5 652.7 0 0 0 3
653.12 6520 202 99.6 19.5 653.52 0 0 3 3
653.92 6680 193.78 98 16.5 654.32 0 3 3 2.3
654.72 6760 184.61 99.6 17.3 655.12 0 3 2.3 2.3Similar threads
