Rebuilding Engine (info)

[ttothec]

I think it’s good that you are going ahead with doing this, you have to start somewhere. Even the greatest engine builders had to do their first engine rebuild.

My only concern would be that you are using some very expensive components on your very first build. Worst case scenario, you make an error (big or small) that results in the engine failing... potentially lots of money down the drain!!

If I had the time, I would love to do something similar, however I would do my first engine rebuild on a car/engine that didn’t owe me much money... make all your mistakes on this engine... then go ahead for something more expensive.

That said, best of luck to you!

 

[DaNnY_LaD]

I think it’s good that you are going ahead with doing this, you have to start somewhere. Even the greatest engine builders had to do their first engine rebuild.

My only concern would be that you are using some very expensive components on your very first build. Worst case scenario, you make an error (big or small) that results in the engine failing... potentially lots of money down the drain!!

If I had the time, I would love to do something similar, however I would do my first engine rebuild on a car/engine that didn’t owe me much money... make all your mistakes on this engine... then go ahead for something more expensive.

That said, best of luck to you!

Yeah that is a good point...

The more people i speak too say That a 1.9 20vt isn't really worth the extra money for the Tubby setup ive got...
So im seariously think keep the stock pistons and Match up with decent rods and Pins and rebuild the bottom end?

Whats every1 think

 

[PhilW]

My list for that setup would be...

Standard pistons (20mm wrist pins ones)
Scat rods 144x20mm
New oil pump, pick up etc...

Valves and springs depending on power and limiter.

 

[Rick1.8t]

Sounds like a good project, but dont just jump in head first.

A good mate of mine works for a company that rebuilds historic F1 engines and racecars etc - and they very (ready very very) occasionally get things wrong equalling 100k engine up in smoke, point being it is VERY easy for something to go wrong building an engine - dont think im taking the piss but you dont seem very clued up - you call bearing shells 'shims', ask from which end piston 1 is etc.

Do a lot of reading (NOT on forums - full of hearsay and mis-informed people that regurgitate what they have 'heard' themselves) and get the right tools and equipment.

Be aware- normal valve spring compressors dont fit without modification and then seating the spring is difficult to get right - get it wrong and you snap a valve and there goes the engine & new turbo - crankshaft end float - bearing shell sizes, piston ring gaps and tolerance, bolt torque etc there is so much to think about.

My opinion is go and get a good book or make sure you get good help from someone who KNOWS what they are doing - please dont rebuild an engine based on forum opinion & knowlege, im not saying the chaps in here dont know what they are doing but you need to be spot on.

Get in there and get the engine apart and get a feel for things to start with - take your time and make sure its right, do it wrong and its hard earned cash down the drain - You can always do bits yourself & get other bits done at an engine builders if your unsure - saving lots of cash.

(e.g. my friends £8000 cosworth engine dropping a valve on the dyno due to it being rebuilt incorrectly = scrap head, scored bores, scrap piston, ruined turbo blades - not nice)

Rick

 

[DaNnY_LaD]

Sounds like a good project, but dont just jump in head first.

A good mate of mine works for a company that rebuilds historic F1 engines and racecars etc - and they very (ready very very) occasionally get things wrong equalling 100k engine up in smoke, point being it is VERY easy for something to go wrong building an engine - dont think im taking the piss but you dont seem very clued up - you call bearing shells 'shims', ask from which end piston 1 is etc.

Do a lot of reading (NOT on forums - full of hearsay and mis-informed people that regurgitate what they have 'heard' themselves) and get the right tools and equipment.

Be aware- normal valve spring compressors dont fit without modification and then seating the spring is difficult to get right - get it wrong and you snap a valve and there goes the engine & new turbo - crankshaft end float - bearing shell sizes, piston ring gaps and tolerance, bolt torque etc there is so much to think about.

My opinion is go and get a good book or make sure you get good help from someone who KNOWS what they are doing - please dont rebuild an engine based on forum opinion & knowlege, im not saying the chaps in here dont know what they are doing but you need to be spot on.

Get in there and get the engine apart and get a feel for things to start with - take your time and make sure its right, do it wrong and its hard earned cash down the drain - You can always do bits yourself & get other bits done at an engine builders if your unsure - saving lots of cash.

(e.g. my friends £8000 cosworth engine dropping a valve on the dyno due to it being rebuilt incorrectly = scrap head, scored bores, scrap piston, ruined turbo blades - not nice)

Rick

I totally agree with you...
I have a Fair knowledge but im not Doing this completly blind i did think about changing the Vavles but it isnt needed as im using the standard Limiter..

To me for a basic start il be Changing the rods and Pistons But keeping it a 1.8 As its easyer for me.
So it doesnt get too complicated Ive got my Book (WH Smiths) and it was on 1.8T 20v engines Was abit of a bonus buy really

The block ive got is in Decent enought condtion But il be replacing the Gaskets,Bottem End bearings ect

I asked about the Shims as thats what my Mech Calls them He said its a bad idea to mix them up...But they won't have to be touched.

I want to Run 350bhp & 350ft-lb safely so doing the Rods & piston is a good shout imo..

You can comment on me being ''Un qaulifed'' Ect in this line of work but im Keen to have ago.
Which theres nothing wrong with doing it as long as it done correct and everthing done to the right NM Settings its fine...

Ive had my mate inspect the bottom end and the cranks ect is in good condition.So he said just like i mentioned Rods and pistons (Decent Ones)

 

[Rick1.8t]

As i said - good on you for giving it a go - i would never say dont do it because your 'unqualified' - many people have no formal qualifications in their field but are still experts and would wipe the floor with a graduate etc.

Changing pistons / rods is a good start - might be an idea not to bother disturbing the crank in that case? - that will add extra complications especially if the engine is only 36k old.

He may mean thrust washers in the bottom end - they account crankshaft end-float.

Just remember - measure everything (at least once!) and be 100% sure about everything you fit and do - bearing sizes, and torque settings. -

Good luck with it all, im sure you will get a lot of satisfaction from starting the engine you assembled yourself for the first time.

Rick

 

[DaNnY_LaD]

As i said - good on you for giving it a go - i would never say dont do it because your 'unqualified' - many people have no formal qualifications in their field but are still experts and would wipe the floor with a graduate etc.

Changing pistons / rods is a good start - might be an idea not to bother disturbing the crank in that case? - that will add extra complications especially if the engine is only 36k old.

He may mean thrust washers in the bottom end - they account crankshaft end-float.

Just remember - measure everything (at least once!) and be 100% sure about everything you fit and do - bearing sizes, and torque settings. -

Good luck with it all, im sure you will get a lot of satisfaction from starting the engine you assembled yourself for the first time.

Rick

Mucho Appreacited rick

Speakin to Bill & PHil W ect and a few other people and they said just use the OEM Pistons(19mm) And Use Decent Rods And do the usal Service items..
I didnt want to patically want to disturb the crank as it makes thinks to complicated and more to take in if you get me

Il change the Pistons rings ect too..

 

[Rick1.8t]

When i was at uni there was a cracking book about rebuilding engines, i cant remember the name but i bet it would come up on amazon with the right search 'engine rebuild' or similar - definately worth a read and would be a big help no doubt.

Rick

 

[wild willy]

Danny can you post a picture and details of your book please as i'd be interested in a copy.
I would replace the shells too for the price.

 

[DaNnY_LaD]

Yeah Willy will get the Author for you when i go up 2 my birds house:

RightyO the list i have so far is:

INA Connecting rods (19mm wrist Pins)
New Crank shaft Shells
New HeadGasket
New Rocker Gasket
New Spark Plug gasket
New Throttle bodie gasket
New Oil sump Gasket
New Piston rings(seals)
New Oil Filter
New Oil Pump
New Oil retainer
New Water Pump
New Timing Belt & Alternator Belt
New Timing Belt Tensioner
New Inlet Manifold Gasket (Phenolic One)
New Ik22 spark plugs
New Water Pump (Metal Impeller)
New oil return pipe line gasket,
New Oil and coolant union washers
Red Torco Engine assemble Grease

I miss anything off for the engine?

 

[cupra drew]

seen as you have so much money do ya wana lend me some

 

[MIkey kc]

oil return pipe line gasket, Oil and coolant union washers

 

[MIkey kc]

oh oil and coolant aswel

 

[DaNnY_LaD]

Ta mikey...

Drew No way

Ive Been Offered this Fully Built cylinder head and Rocker cover £50 has covered 111k miles what you reckon pics:

What would i have to change to get it back to new ...

 

[MIkey kc]

Hard to tell from those pics danny but to get it near new condition strip it give it a good clean, lap in all the valves and fit new valve stem oil seals and that should be fine aslong as theres nothing wrong woith it

 

[DaNnY_LaD]

Yeah he says its in mint condition..

Hes a mechanic ect for Audi ect

But its cheap for a head still

 

[MIkey kc]

yeah its cheap but prob doesnt owe him anything so he anit arsed how much he gets for it just after a quick buck! get iy bought lol

 

[Rick1.8t]

Thats very cheap for a head - 111k though there is bound to be some form of corrosion on the head face or marking from storage at least - It will need a new head gasket so likely a skim (will at least need checking) then everything Mikey said above - which means removing and refitting valve springs so not the easiest job.

Basically a full head strip / rebuild so may as well take it to the engineers and get it crack tested while its being skimmed.

Rick

 

[Reuvers]

I don't understand how this can be so cheap.

you'll have an entire block for 100 odd quid if you buy this

cheap as chips.

 

[IbizaAlex]

I do 19mm rods too

The head will prob need new guides too. The sump doesnt have a gasket, but is sealed with sealant.