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MK1 Leon GT2x Build - thats it folks

jamiebennett81

Guest
Make sure you count how many turns you move it and which way each time and try with just one or two turns to start with.

this could be a lengthy process due to it sitting right below the tubular manifold and it being red hot lol!
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
31,333
19
glos.uk
you need to check the function of the actuator.. is is closing ok, closing fully? sticking? etc etc

ideally a hand pressure pump is handy at times like these.
 

jamiebennett81

Guest
you need to check the function of the actuator.. is is closing ok, closing fully? sticking? etc etc

ideally a hand pressure pump is handy at times like these.

unfortunately that is something I dont have at the moment

I am (like you) losing the will to live with this issue at the moment.

if I adjust the actuator and it starts to "increase" the boost, then problem solved I guess......or is it not as simple as that?:blink:
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
31,333
19
glos.uk
unfortunately that is something I dont have at the moment

I am (like you) losing the will to live with this issue at the moment.

if I adjust the actuator and it starts to "increase" the boost, then problem solved I guess......or is it not as simple as that?:blink:

determining the problem to be actuator itself needs to confirm what its static opening pressure is also.. see if you can confirm this (connected but N75 electrically disconnected)

mitivac is a pump I use to check DV's and actuators.. maybe ebay has one of these at a good price for you to check, or take it to someone to save yourself some angst.
 

jamiebennett81

Guest
As simple as that (I think).

not so

this is how I thought an actuator would be, adjust the bolts on it

DSCI0006.jpg


BUT on the modified GT2x, it only has one nut, which just loosens....

DSCN1130.jpg
 

Damoegan

Sir Bob,a geordy legend..
Oct 15, 2007
8,993
3
Newcastle
Same priciple, just a longer process as it looks like you need to take out some sort of little clip or pin (where the actuator arm is atatched to the turbo body). Then crack the nut and adjust from there.
 

jamiebennett81

Guest
Same priciple, just a longer process as it looks like you need to take out some sort of little clip or pin (where the actuator arm is atatched to the turbo body). Then crack the nut and adjust from there.

FFS, thats what I thought[:@]

that pin is a complete $hit to come out I think

why on earth has CR turbo's stuck that sort of actuator arm on it!!!
 

h17och

the hunt is over. 460bhp
Sep 1, 2005
3,504
1
Dunstabubble
you need to remoce the circlip on the arm, crack off the locking nut, disconnect the arm from wastegate flap and turn the whole turnbuckle thing
 

jamiebennett81

Guest
you need to remoce the circlip on the arm, crack off the locking nut, disconnect the arm from wastegate flap and turn the whole turnbuckle thing

and then reconnect it every time......its just not logical, why would that have been put on there as its the most difficult thing to adjust!

I am going to call CR turbo's tomorrow, ask for more clips

OR tempted to get the turbo taken off, sent back to CR turbos and an easier to adjust actuator stuck back on, as its this which has caused all these issues!:rolleyes::censored:
 

jamiebennett81

Guest
its a much more secure way of doing it. better imho

hooch, how do you get the actual nut off then?

pull with pliers or what exactly? can this be refitted or will spares be needed like the same with the circlips?
 

Damoegan

Sir Bob,a geordy legend..
Oct 15, 2007
8,993
3
Newcastle
You dont need to remove the nut as its just a locking nut to stop the actuator arm from moving on the threads. Once the circlip is off just hold the actuator arm with a some pliers or spmething like that and crack the locking nut with a spenner (I'd say a 10mm spanner from the pic) ans either screw the actuator rod in or out.
 

jamiebennett81

Guest
You dont need to remove the nut as its just a locking nut to stop the actuator arm from moving on the threads. Once the circlip is off just hold the actuator arm with a some pliers or spmething like that and crack the locking nut with a spenner (I'd say a 10mm spanner from the pic) ans either screw the actuator rod in or out.

no sorry, I did not mean the nut, as yes thats just to stop it moving on the threads

I meant remove the circlip, how "crack" the locking nut? how does it come off or refit, as cracking it, sounds like breaking it......

pull it off and then refit I guess? the locking nut is rounded, so its not angular for a spanner to fit it

also if the arm winds out or in, when refitting it, it wont line up then will it for the locking bolt to to refit?
 
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