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IHI POWER!! Booked in at Jabba

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
31,333
19
glos.uk
going top mount with mine bill,more expense:( oh well at least i'll have a full jabba kit for sale soon:D

If going top mount, forget IHI flanged whatevers.... go T3 and get a std style garrett which will work out less $$ in the long run....
Depending on how much bhp you want, also consider external wg also, as it gets tricky on big arse compressors on internally gated, and boost creep etc.

Whats your power goal now?

Where you getting your mani?
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
31,333
19
glos.uk
Your scaring me now Bill! :scary: How much are your Pauter Rods and do they come complete with ARP Bolts?

Pauters reckon on £550, but also consider them in rifled drilled version (extra $45 each)
I run Eurospec rods, but also Scat rods, which look pretty much identical to my Eurospecs but cost a lot less.
 

ibizacupra

Jack-RIP my little Friend
Jul 25, 2001
31,333
19
glos.uk
both would argue to be strong enough for a lot of bhp.
There's a picture on vortex of a 16v turbo motor which split the block in two, on same style rods as Scat/Eurospec/Arrow/Carrilo so the "shape" of rods is'nt the thing, more its materials, and fixings.
 

Songman

Full Member
Aug 10, 2003
232
0
Ayrshire
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Hopefully some points regarding use of my car will offer insight:)

I`ve done near 40000 miles now since the IHI was fitted in Dec 2005 - i`m still on the original exhaust manifold/turbo exhaust housing/and Jabba downpipe - no obvious signs yet of heat stress/cracking/warping etc.

I`ve done 20,000 miles since June last year, when I had a new compressor and cartritdge fitted - the original set having failed as a consequence of a faulty DV- with no major problems.

The car has done in total, 80000 miles now, and is running as well as ever - oil consumption is negligible - and the original, standard VAG components have stood up very well - pistons,rings,gearbox,diff,drive shafts,wheel bearings,all which were areas of concern to me as a consequence of the increased power, have shown no sign of premature failure.

I am still, 40000 miles on, using the original Sachs clutch fitted by Jabba when they did the IHI conversion.

I have not `spared` the car in any way - all the mileage has been on the public road but no doubt I do drive `enthusaistically, whilst having mind of my own safety and that of other road users.

The setup was mapped originally at 1.6bar but with the miles passing, makes more boost if allowed to - as you can see from the videos, it will make 1.7bar+ at the top end.

In the midrange it will make 1.8+ bar peaks, easily - I see that on a daily basis -mostly as a consequence of the Aquamist - often in circumstances of say, waiting to overtake on a trailing throttle - the temp of the intercooler drops right down - once the overtake is commenced, and the throttle floored, the Aquamist kicks in[1 bar] and there is a definite cooling effect of water/methanol mix on the temp of the inlet charge - there is a lot of torque produced, much more than when the car was originally on the dyno, and this may well test the limits of the standard rods - that`s why if you`re going to run a setup like mine it`s I think it`s worthwhile changing the rods.
Also the stronger rods do offer some protection against mishap - such as the failure of boost control the happened to me the other day as a consequence of the leaking N75 pipe

I do keep a weather eye on things via the spa boost/egt gauge - an essential bit of kit for me - and I constantly monitor and trim the available boost if necessary using the boost controller.

Regarding EGT and IAT - the highest EGT i`ve seen is 895 degC downstream of turbo and that was after running at full bore [170mph+] for a couple of miles.
Last summer I spent some time with Vag Com logging the IAT and mostly they were glued to ambient - it took a good thrashing and warm weather to get them to nudge past the 30degC marker so the Aquamist does help. You can actually see in the log, a drop in the IAT when the Aquamist cuts in.

Despite fears about using water/methanol injection over an extended period to date after 40000 miles use there have been no apparent adverse effects as far as reliability of the internals goes.

In my book, the running costs are amazingly low for the Porsche+level of performance available - i`ve relpaced timing belt/water pump/ plugs/lambdas/MAF/N75, all as a matter of routine preventative maintenance.
I change the oil and filter [Mobil 1] every 5000miles - always warm it up, before I use the performance, and cool it down afterwards - and really that`s it!

I am going to keep the car, so without doubt I will eventually have some form of failure. I really don`t expect hardware to last `forever` especially when run at such high specific outputs.
I will probably look anyway to renewing the turbo in 20,000 miles if not before, as preventative maintenance.

I`ll keep you posted!
 

Yumann

Full Member
May 17, 2002
1,638
0
Glasgow
Your scaring me now Bill! :scary: How much are your Pauter Rods and do they come complete with ARP Bolts?

IIRC correctly pauter make there own bolts which are very good, optional extra for arp.

Make sure your engine builder stretches the bolts to the correct pre-load as conventional torque wrench method is not as accurate due to friction of theads which vary from hole to hole.

Not totally neccesary if they know what there doing and using good moly based lube for the threads.

It took me a while to find an engine builder that stretches the bolts rather than torqueing them. But iam paranoid about things like this bit of a perfectionist do it once and do it proper i say.

Futhering this when you get the rods you might aswell get them x-rayed for air bubbles which i have done you never know you might be unlucky.
 
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Songman

Full Member
Aug 10, 2003
232
0
Ayrshire
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IIRC correctly pauter make there own bolts which are very good, optional extra for arp.

Make sure your engine builder stretches the bolts to the correct pre-load as conventional torque wrench method is not as accurate due to friction of theads which vary from hole to hole.

Not totally neccesary if they know what there doing and using good moly based lube for the threads.

It took me a while to find an engine builder that stretches the bolts rather than torqueing them. But iam paranoid about things like this bit of a perfectionist do it once and do it proper i say.

Futhering this when you get the rods you might aswell get them x-rayed for air bubbles which i have done you never know you might be unlucky.

Yumann !! - come on down!! - just make that choice, IHI or Garrett - and go for it man.

I think you are worrying way too much - we`ll all be running round in wee electric buggies soon, if Big Bro has his way:( - you`ll miss out on a whole load of fun.

The rods you have will be fine for 350/400bhp, and even at that output, its not the rods that will concern you most - more like the tyre bill ! - less than 6000 miles a set of fronts:cry:

If you are planning on more power than that, then sell the LCR now, and buy into the S3/TT 4wd platform.;)
 

Ianb

Full Member
Nov 13, 2003
332
0
Yumann !! - come on down!! - just make that choice, IHI or Garrett - and go for it man.

I think you are worrying way too much - we`ll all be running round in wee electric buggies soon, if Big Bro has his way:( - you`ll miss out on a whole load of fun.

The rods you have will be fine for 350/400bhp, and even at that output, its not the rods that will concern you most - more like the tyre bill ! - less than 6000 miles a set of fronts:cry:

If you are planning on more power than that, then sell the LCR now, and buy into the S3/TT 4wd platform.;)

Songman

Always reading your posts....very informative and sensible.

You probably have seen my post regarding my exploits of new turbo using the APR Stage 3 package. I too have considered uprating rods and pistons and your right to do so I believe. I'm initially using OE on my set up even though the car has 100k on an AUM engine. APR are utilising there stage 3 map and tweaking it they assure me it's fine to 320-340 max. I'm very wary about this therefore I have made the decision to go 1900 later in the year with uprated internals....more money I suppose but it will be peace of mind and more grunt!! Until then track use will be limited once it has settled in...I for one know how much extra strain track use puts on the internals.

Your advice is certainly spot on ie warm up cool down and 5k oil changes.
Nice to see your motor has done 80k without too many issues!

Ian
 

Songman

Full Member
Aug 10, 2003
232
0
Ayrshire
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Songman

Always reading your posts....very informative and sensible.

You probably have seen my post regarding my exploits of new turbo using the APR Stage 3 package. I too have considered uprating rods and pistons and your right to do so I believe. I'm initially using OE on my set up even though the car has 100k on an AUM engine. APR are utilising there stage 3 map and tweaking it they assure me it's fine to 320-340 max. I'm very wary about this therefore I have made the decision to go 1900 later in the year with uprated internals....more money I suppose but it will be peace of mind and more grunt!! Until then track use will be limited once it has settled in...I for one know how much extra strain track use puts on the internals.

Your advice is certainly spot on ie warm up cool down and 5k oil changes.
Nice to see your motor has done 80k without too many issues!

Ian

Cheers Ian and thanks :) - I know how difficult it was to get info when I myself was thinking about doing the turbo conversion, so I`m just trying to give a general insight regarding my own thoughts and experiences with the BT kit, so that others who may be considering the move , can take a broader view, and thus make more informed choices.

I`m really looking forward to seeing the results of your APR kit - I have a whole lot of respect for APR.
I admire their perfectionist attitude, and their no compromise approach to getting the job just right. The kit should be fantastic.

The rods will give you added security and are definitely worth doing when you up the capacity - 1900 cc! - even more torque to handle!

I will probably `freshen up` mine around the 100,000 mile mark too - we`ll see - I have to admit that I don`t really have the driving talent to extract the maximum from the power I have already - it really focuses the mind, as you will shortly find out!!

There`s life in the old `Bumblebee` yet, however - I was at Knockhill today for a photoshoot with Performance VW mag - Rob Don and myself - Scottish Leons!! - Rob`s car is a work of art!!

Anyway I suspect you`ll all soon see my ugly mug , grinning out at you from the glossy page :fool: - it was colder than the darkside of Hell up there, but photographer Steve McCann still managed to get some great shots :funk:
 

Ianb

Full Member
Nov 13, 2003
332
0
Cheers Ian and thanks :) - I know how difficult it was to get info when I myself was thinking about doing the turbo conversion, so I`m just trying to give a general insight regarding my own thoughts and experiences with the BT kit, so that others who may be considering the move , can take a broader view, and thus make more informed choices.

I`m really looking forward to seeing the results of your APR kit - I have a whole lot of respect for APR.
I admire their perfectionist attitude, and their no compromise approach to getting the job just right. The kit should be fantastic.

The rods will give you added security and are definitely worth doing when you up the capacity - 1900 cc! - even more torque to handle!

I will probably `freshen up` mine around the 100,000 mile mark too - we`ll see - I have to admit that I don`t really have the driving talent to extract the maximum from the power I have already - it really focuses the mind, as you will shortly find out!!

There`s life in the old `Bumblebee` yet, however - I was at Knockhill today for a photoshoot with Performance VW mag - Rob Don and myself - Scottish Leons!! - Rob`s car is a work of art!!

Anyway I suspect you`ll all soon see my ugly mug , grinning out at you from the glossy page :fool: - it was colder than the darkside of Hell up there, but photographer Steve McCann still managed to get some great shots :funk:


When you went to uprated internals did you use uprated crank or the OE item.
Also did you balance the bottom end when building it?

I was considering ajust going to 1900 using uprated piston's and rods as the 20v unit seems pretty smooth.
I will probably go with better valves at the same time and stick the APR inlet manifold and uses a more aggressive map.
Still I will probably be getting used to my new power levels and learning on getting the best from it.
Do you run the Jabba sport baffled sump?

Ian
 

traumapat

Leon Cupra IHI
Jul 24, 2005
5,925
4
sunny sussex
bit of good press for modified leons :clap:

nice write up songman.

have to sort my lcs internals before i can go futher. not quite as strong as the lcr i think. but this threads very imformative/tempting

know what you mean about driving skills with this level of power.. learning all the time. such a different car! previous car... 2 years ago.. astra sri 130bhp k plate. huge learning curve. didnt even know what bhp was when i got my leon.


heres to dry roads and cold temps:D
 

Songman

Full Member
Aug 10, 2003
232
0
Ayrshire
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you coming down to inters this year?

Hopefully yes Bill ! - still tryin to work out if I`ll have to sell the house to pay for the insurance for the Vette- will make a big effort to be there - I really enjoyed it last year - guess I`m in for a real good whoopin` this year with that 500+bhp of yours :cry:
 

Songman

Full Member
Aug 10, 2003
232
0
Ayrshire
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When you went to uprated internals did you use uprated crank or the OE item.
Also did you balance the bottom end when building it?

I was considering ajust going to 1900 using uprated piston's and rods as the 20v unit seems pretty smooth.
I will probably go with better valves at the same time and stick the APR inlet manifold and uses a more aggressive map.
Still I will probably be getting used to my new power levels and learning on getting the best from it.
Do you run the Jabba sport baffled sump?

Ian

The standard crank is plenty strong enough for your use - I would just wait and see how you get on once the kit is fitted - it takes a while to get used to it. [does the novelty ever wear off!!]

The thought process is not so much`do I have 350 bhp, or is it only 340bhp` - it`s more like` how the heck do I keep this thing goin` straight down the road here!!`

I had a Jabba baffled sump fitted - but you don`t need it for road use I would think, at least not unless you`re in the habit of pulling 1.0G round roundabouts - maybe if you`re a trackday fan.

I didn`t have the crank balanced - didn`t think it was worth it for road use - the motor has so much torque, you don`t need to rev it hard to go fast.
Perhaps i`ll have it balanced when I go for a rebuild - we`ll see.

In all I would say just take your time and see how you go - if your motors in good fettle, you should be fine for a while - my mates car had 125,000 miles on it with an IHI and it ran OK.:)
 
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