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June delivery
VERY NICE. Well done!
Some SERIOUS power and performance!
Will you be keeping the LCR?
this guys good got my je's from him http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Hp-Motoring_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZQ2d1QQfsubZQ2d33QQftidZ2QQtZkm
it used to be before a valve let go(heatreated one at that) it's got arrow rods,81mm je's but they're coming out and it's being bored out to take some 82mm low compression je's.then going largeport and new turboCaney, what spec is your engine?, it seems pretty bullet proof!
Enough is never enough eh Steve...
PE had an experience with an S3 throwing a rod after taking a 100/150 shot of gas on a dyno and as far as I'm aware it was standard to begin with - not sure which bottom end it was though.
Blew a hole in the sump and pissed oil everywhere.. which promptly ignited....
After the rod was recovered, it looked like it had been through a mandrel and the top of the rod was bent almost 90 degrees.
Nasty stuff.
Raf
PE had an experience with an S3 throwing a rod after taking a 100/150 shot of gas on a dyno and as far as I'm aware it was standard to begin with - not sure which bottom end it was though.
Blew a hole in the sump and pissed oil everywhere.. which promptly ignited....
After the rod was recovered, it looked like it had been through a mandrel and the top of the rod was bent almost 90 degrees.
Nasty stuff.Raf
i think that was raj from ns racing,did it about 3 1/2 years ago iirc!Enough is never enough eh Steve...
PE had an experience with an S3 throwing a rod after taking a 100/150 shot of gas on a dyno and as far as I'm aware it was standard to begin with - not sure which bottom end it was though.
Blew a hole in the sump and pissed oil everywhere.. which promptly ignited....
After the rod was recovered, it looked like it had been through a mandrel and the top of the rod was bent almost 90 degrees.
Raf
jabbaturbo
Guest
Caney, what turbo you going for?? Are you going to try one of Jabbas new one's?? I had a 1.9 conversion done on my VRS end of last year, but I tried 2 turbos. GT12 and a TD06 20g, the GT12 just did not work. And the TD06 blew up!! I'm running a VF34 20g at the mo, but its maxed out at 370!!
When Jabba fitted the td06 20G, did they add any spacers, or have to grind some off the head to make it fit?
Chinese td06's are not very reliable. The deadbolt and blouch ones are bullet proof, unlike the vf34.
I chucked a rod on a vf34 at 1.5 bar boost. It's just a matter of time.
Theres no need to grind any any of the head,it does need the manifold and down pipe porting to suit.
How many different companys manufacture td06's?
Loads of different ones. Some use genuine misubishi parts, others don't.
I ask, because a blouch/deadbolt td05h18g won't go on the jabba manifold, and clear the head without grinding some meat off the corner of the head to clear the compressor housing, no matter how you clock it. The 20G has even less chance. I'd be asking if these are mitsubishi genuine parts if it fits.
There are lots of fake chinese mitsubishi turbo parts arround. There is a great thread on scooby net called 'are all 18/20g 's created equal'. Interesting read.
Elton told me that when they tried one of their sourced 18g's it made no more power than the VF34 20. Odd because it's shifting 25% more air than the IHI could manage on mine, and is way faster.
I always thought the BAM engines had 19mm pins too - must have read it somewhere? - measured mine myself to satisfy my curosity - 20mm.
Indeed this whole business of the strength of the standard rods is a bit intriguing - has anyone on here actually had a rod failure? - I wonderI have never ever seen a data spec sheet relating to the performance of the standard rods.
APR seem to be happy with the standard rods for their stage 3 + kits.
I`m happy I had the Pauters fitted mainly because they offer a margin of safety, for when the `things you never think will happen` - actually do happen
Like the other week when I was on a trip, and started to hit past 2bar on the boost gauge
I know of a couple LCR motors which threw rods. no BT just remapped.
It is the very same valves..
as I sourced and supplied to JS before they decided to go direct. it used to be before a valve let go(heatreated one at that) it's got arrow rods,81mm je's but they're coming out and it's being bored out to take some 82mm low compression je's.then going largeport and new turbo
Oi! *cough*
You not forgetting to mention something vital there Steve, before saying a valve let go!!!!!
cause & effect.......
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So its your TD06 copy which had its turbine wheel fall off..
quality build then... freaky failure.
Saw Dans Owens one yesterday. Nice piece of kit, and chunky. With some removal of corners it does look like it will fit, but boy is it tight under there.
So very glad I have gone top mount, so much easier and uncompromised an installation.
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oh yeahOi! *cough*
You not forgetting to mention something vital there Steve, before saying a valve let go!!!!!
cause & effect.......
forgot to mention the melted spark plug caused the valve to let go
going top mount with mine bill,more expense
oh well at least i'll have a full jabba kit for sale soonSteve I still think your valve failiure was similar to mine, and caused by a faulty airflow meter.
Your car like mine was is running in the last column of the timing table, as the map is maxed out. A failing maf in these circumstances will cause the ecu to up the boost to try to make load. Boost goes up and timing doesn't come down to compensate, pushing you into det. Theres only so far the ecu can pull timing, and with your use of nitrous, you are probably there at your normal boost levels.
You said the 30psi guage was pegged, so your ecu was definately pushing more boost than before, and you were experiencing exactly the same misfire behaviour that iwas getting at boost onset.
Severe det, melty spark plug, melty vavle. One of the reasons to keep an eye on your boost guage, and to not max out the map sensor.
One of the reasons that I ran my last IHI at a conservative 1.45bar, and logged it regularly to check it was OK. With the new turbo, I wasn't going to run over 1.45 bar unless a 3 bar map was fitted (which it has)
Your car like mine was is running in the last column of the timing table, as the map is maxed out. A failing maf in these circumstances will cause the ecu to up the boost to try to make load. Boost goes up and timing doesn't come down to compensate, pushing you into det. Theres only so far the ecu can pull timing, and with your use of nitrous, you are probably there at your normal boost levels.
You said the 30psi guage was pegged, so your ecu was definately pushing more boost than before, and you were experiencing exactly the same misfire behaviour that iwas getting at boost onset.
Severe det, melty spark plug, melty vavle. One of the reasons to keep an eye on your boost guage, and to not max out the map sensor.
One of the reasons that I ran my last IHI at a conservative 1.45bar, and logged it regularly to check it was OK. With the new turbo, I wasn't going to run over 1.45 bar unless a 3 bar map was fitted (which it has)
Your scaring me now Bill!
How much are your Pauter Rods and do they come complete with ARP Bolts?Similar threads
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