Thanks for your reply. What you mention has already been identified as per my post. However the question is:
Has anyone else broken clips and not put in new ones and have found the door creaks when the car is in motion or is it just that I haven't fitted the card back on properly? Its winter and I dont want to take my door apart again.
seat-shed
Guest
Popular topic - makes you wonder if there are any Seat Leons out there without wet carpets?
Maybe Seat ought to feature quick release carpets & underlay as a desirable feature on future cars!
Maybe Seat ought to feature quick release carpets & underlay as a desirable feature on future cars!
I seem to remember breaking more than half of the clips, but the runner at the top and the screws at the bottom seem to keep things quiet? I don't know whether it's because my doors are leather covered rather than plastic though.
I really ought to buy a bag full of those clips and refit them!
My passenger front and rear foot well is wet all the time the rest of the car is dry, now in the morning after a down-poor when I first pull-away my other half's feet get rained on and soaked, seems to be coming from under the glove-box and yes its funny when she shouts at me but I need this sorted!, would it just be the filter? Many thanks
seat-shed
Guest
I've just tackled the front passenger door which was the worst leak (drivers side also leaks, but rear doors are so far ok). As detailed in DubSteve68's excellent post on page 33, the seal in the bottom front cormer (below speaker) had failed big time. A few observations:
- The internal profile of the hanger plate directs any water that gets into the door cavity into the front rear corner of the door so water accumulates there, eventually rotting the seal.
- I used 6mm butyl bead, but I'm not sure it's thick enough as it didn't squeeze out of the joint as much as I'd hoped when I tightened the hanger plate up (time will tell) - but I'm going to get some 8mm for the other doors.
- I don't think you need to run a new seal around the whole plate. The seal is critical to keeping water out on the bottom edge, but elesewhere doesn't really do much so I reckon you could get away with replacing the lower half of the seal only.
- Luckily I had a trim removal tool (widely available - looks like a big flat fork) and when used gently removed the door card without breaking any door clips.
- This really is a simple job to do, just follow the instructions on page 33 and don't use brute force.
- The internal profile of the hanger plate directs any water that gets into the door cavity into the front rear corner of the door so water accumulates there, eventually rotting the seal.
- I used 6mm butyl bead, but I'm not sure it's thick enough as it didn't squeeze out of the joint as much as I'd hoped when I tightened the hanger plate up (time will tell) - but I'm going to get some 8mm for the other doors.
- I don't think you need to run a new seal around the whole plate. The seal is critical to keeping water out on the bottom edge, but elesewhere doesn't really do much so I reckon you could get away with replacing the lower half of the seal only.
- Luckily I had a trim removal tool (widely available - looks like a big flat fork) and when used gently removed the door card without breaking any door clips.
- This really is a simple job to do, just follow the instructions on page 33 and don't use brute force.
Last edited by a moderator:
I only did the bottom half, there might be a few drops that can get in by tracking down the edge of the plate but nowhere near as much as would do from the bottom.
Dealer would charge you an hour per door plus bits so at least £100 to do both front doors plus extra when they break the clips. Plus the hassle of taking the car there, lifts or waiting while they do it. Or buy the butyl strip for less than £10 and do it yourself. The old foam will pull out easily except where it leaked. On mine it was under the speakers, probably the extra vibration, but easy to get to and push the new strip in it's place.
Do it yourself and know it's done right.
Do it yourself and know it's done right.
Dealers may not do the butyl strip as a fix, some would replace the original fabric seal and some have used silicone sealant without removing the panel. In their eyes they are all fixes, but butyl will last longer.
Last edited:
Slimy: Well my door cards are plastic with fabric on them. Anyhow, I will have to take the door card off again and refit it with new clips. I'll have to wait for spring for this.
seat-shed
Guest
If you're careful you probably won't break any of the clips on the front doors, but back doors are a different story as they rely soley on the clips to clamp the door card to the door frame requiring more force to remove (front utilises 2 screws at the base so less force needed). Either way they're cheap, I paid about £3 for 10 on Ebay so best be prepared. I replaced all 4 seals although it was only the front doors that were leaking. However, the back ones were starting to rot so it was only a question of time. The worst part of the job is removing and drying the carpets/sound deadening material so my advice is do them all to avoid having to repeat another tedious, cold and stinking job again in mid winter.
Seems to me the leak source - is it pollen filter or door seal? - is easy to resolve. If, when you open your doors, you have pools of water on the sill, particularly at the front edge, then the seal inside the door is certainly the culprit. The water is trapped there and the only way out is over the sill where it will quietly and regularly soak into the sound deadening material, only becoming obvious when the water in the footwell reaches epic proportions, by which time it will have also flowed into the rear footwell. The pollen filter seal may also be leaking, but a simple check with the hose pipe when the carpet is up will confirm or eliminate. The hose pipe test is less conclusive for the internal door seal as the water takes much longer to seap and drip into the door cavity and eventually exit via the leaking seal instead of the drain holes.
Last edited by a moderator:
seat-shed
Guest
Does anybody know if the airbag sensor warning light needs to be reset after removing the drivers seat to dry out the carpets?
Air bag warning light came on while I had the passenger seat out/sensor wire disconnected, but went off instantly when seat refitted. However, it's remained on after refitting the drivers seat (was ok before) and the sensor wire connections under the drivers seat seem ok.
Air bag warning light came on while I had the passenger seat out/sensor wire disconnected, but went off instantly when seat refitted. However, it's remained on after refitting the drivers seat (was ok before) and the sensor wire connections under the drivers seat seem ok.
Last edited by a moderator:
seat-shed
Guest
No, I used the car while the passenger seat was out (needed car while carpets were drying) with no such problem so assumed drivers side would be ok also.
Further research suggests I need to reset the fault code... does anybody have experience of using any of the diagnostic tools on Ebay costing about £20ish, e.g. Ebay item 150667799048 - probably cheaper than paying a main stealer to do it.
Further research suggests I need to reset the fault code... does anybody have experience of using any of the diagnostic tools on Ebay costing about £20ish, e.g. Ebay item 150667799048 - probably cheaper than paying a main stealer to do it.
Last edited by a moderator:
Yep, that'll work fine. It's a no-frills device but for reading and resetting codes it'll be fine.
Similar threads
