I saw a thread where the bleeding sequence depended on what ABS pump fitted to the car
Can't find at the moment though
Can't find at the moment though
Right I have looked through a couple of the Haynes manuals - no Seat Leon ones available so used Golf mkIV - and the bleeding order is as follows:
Who would you trust? Vag's Elsa workshop manual, I mean the people that made your car.
Or Haynes, using secondhand information.
Either way I really don't care what you end up doing, I do it by the German book and never hand a problem and if I do is use the pump pedal whilst bleeding method.
Master cylinder seals can fail at any time! Very rare to have them fail from bleeding and if it did fail count it as luck that the poor seals failed then and not down the road.
Or Haynes, using secondhand information.
Either way I really don't care what you end up doing, I do it by the German book and never hand a problem and if I do is use the pump pedal whilst bleeding method.
Master cylinder seals can fail at any time! Very rare to have them fail from bleeding and if it did fail count it as luck that the poor seals failed then and not down the road.
Exactly, I have a special tool I use for bleeding the brakes. Its a container with a one way valve for trapping air. I bled my brakes solo, but its easier with a buddy or so.
Demo video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKaTMkTyEEo
Demo video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKaTMkTyEEo
I seem to remember last time I plugged my car in there'a a brake bleeding routine via the ABS pump. Most of the garage level diagnostic systems should be able to access this and it's a lot easier than pumping the pedal.
Spongy brakes can also be due to a caliper not sliding properly, causing it to grip one side only and flex on the mounting.
Spongy brakes can also be due to a caliper not sliding properly, causing it to grip one side only and flex on the mounting.
Using an ezibleed kit
Both rear together
Both front together
Master cylinder
Then each corner on it's own
Rear right, rear left
Front right, front left
This way, you get enough flow to pull any air out the ABS pump and you are totally sure of a clean air free system.
That's what my local frendly dealer told me and it worked great for me.
Rock solid and loads of bite
Both rear together
Both front together
Master cylinder
Then each corner on it's own
Rear right, rear left
Front right, front left
This way, you get enough flow to pull any air out the ABS pump and you are totally sure of a clean air free system.
That's what my local frendly dealer told me and it worked great for me.
Rock solid and loads of bite
alijawad
Guest
Folks I made a mistake I changed the rear brake pads without removing the master cylinder reservoir cover. And now the brake pedal is very spongy and I can't even drive my car what do I need to do
alijawad
Guest
alijawad
Guest
Not yet mate it's been a week I ordered gunson eezi bleed and it didn't arrive yet and by Tuesday if it's not arrived I will but another one because I want to do pressure bleed brakes
I'm struggling to understand why not removing the reservoir cover would lead to spongy brake pedal????????????
By just changing the pads you are not breaking into the fluid side of the calipers, therefore this should not affect the pedal.
The only thing is that the new pads might need bedding in and may take a few days or miles
By just changing the pads you are not breaking into the fluid side of the calipers, therefore this should not affect the pedal.
The only thing is that the new pads might need bedding in and may take a few days or miles
According to the Bently Manual for the Golf/Bora it depends which ABS system is fitted as to which sequence it is. One is Rear Right, Rear Left, Front Right, Front Left..... The other is the one described from Elsa. (Starting at front)
This is where the confusion comes from, however I am not sure how to tell which system is fitted. It may be that the Leon had only one system and the other applies to the 4WD Golf maybe.
On the subject of Brake bleeding....
I have a hand pumped vaccum gun at home (handy for the vac hoses on TDI's) and am using that to bleed my brakes.
About 6 months ago I had 3 new calipers and a new master cylinder fitted to my Leon by a garage. (shamefull I know, but the first time anyone else has done anything to the leon other than tyres since I owned it)
Even though I had 3 new calipers, new pads all round and a load of new fluid in my new master cylinder my breaking felt the same after the work as it did before (not great, and spongy). This has gradually got worse, so I decided to bleed my brakes.
All I can say is WOW, it seems like there is very little fluid in the lines, as when I bleed the only caliper that was not changes, the vaccum draws fluid out and removes the air. However for the other 3 there seems to be little more than a dribble and lots of air.
Does anyone have any ideas why this may be? I am stumped and cannot drive with one wheel braking.
I have a hand pumped vaccum gun at home (handy for the vac hoses on TDI's) and am using that to bleed my brakes.
About 6 months ago I had 3 new calipers and a new master cylinder fitted to my Leon by a garage. (shamefull I know, but the first time anyone else has done anything to the leon other than tyres since I owned it)
Even though I had 3 new calipers, new pads all round and a load of new fluid in my new master cylinder my breaking felt the same after the work as it did before (not great, and spongy). This has gradually got worse, so I decided to bleed my brakes.
All I can say is WOW, it seems like there is very little fluid in the lines, as when I bleed the only caliper that was not changes, the vaccum draws fluid out and removes the air. However for the other 3 there seems to be little more than a dribble and lots of air.
Does anyone have any ideas why this may be? I am stumped and cannot drive with one wheel braking.
alijawad
Guest
Updates folks.
Did bleeding with pressure bleeder and the car is fine and driveable I want the brake pedal to be more hard then what I got now. Any clue how this can be done?
Any information will be appreciated.
Thanks
Did bleeding with pressure bleeder and the car is fine and driveable I want the brake pedal to be more hard then what I got now. Any clue how this can be done?
Any information will be appreciated.
Thanks
Might be some air trapped? If you want a firmer pedal, braided steel brake lines is an option and fresh brake fluid (Castrol React Performance works nice for me)
alijawad
Guest
Brake fluid is fresh all over mate. Secondly I bled all calipers but didn't do master cylinder? Secondly can I do bleeding from one wheel only? Just to avoid hardships on it
Yes you can, or at least, thats how I did it with that bleed kit I showed above. Pedal is firm as a mofo.
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