Spark plugs
- Thread starter Mr Pig
- Start date
Workshop manual links are here:
www.seatcupra.net
Look for the ‘Maintenance’ manual and the Spark Plug Renewal section.
22 Nm for spark plugs to cylinder head.
8 Nm for ignition coil screws.
There is no figure for the gap, as the OEM plugs are assumed to be pre-gapped. There are a number of figures quoted on the net from 0.7-0.9mm with higher output engines having the lower figures. The NGK catalogue gives no figure for Seat Leon - might be worth looking for other VAG marques with same engine (note: this is also 2016 catalogue!!!):
The maintenance and engine EA211 manual states that it is easier to remove ignition coils from a warm engine due to greases applied during installation, and that silicone grease has to be reapplied to the hose on the ignition coil when refitting.
General maintenance - Leon Mk3 Official Seat Workshop Manuals Link
Hi All! I obtained these a few months ago, and they've been a great use so far. Here's a link to all of the Seat Workshop manuals for the Leon Mk3 3dr/5dr. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1M4ofxxMgsFjE7hNWg6l4KuifelmdMUu0?usp=sharing...
www.seatcupra.net
Look for the ‘Maintenance’ manual and the Spark Plug Renewal section.
22 Nm for spark plugs to cylinder head.
8 Nm for ignition coil screws.
There is no figure for the gap, as the OEM plugs are assumed to be pre-gapped. There are a number of figures quoted on the net from 0.7-0.9mm with higher output engines having the lower figures. The NGK catalogue gives no figure for Seat Leon - might be worth looking for other VAG marques with same engine (note: this is also 2016 catalogue!!!):
The maintenance and engine EA211 manual states that it is easier to remove ignition coils from a warm engine due to greases applied during installation, and that silicone grease has to be reapplied to the hose on the ignition coil when refitting.
Thank you. The plugs were bought from an official VW/Audi parts supplier so I'll assume the gap is correct.
I've just looked at a few videos and learned about the 'boot issue'! Lot of people struggling to get the things out. I assume you mean to put silicone grease on the boot? That's the bit that gets stuck in the block. I didn't know silicone grease could take the heat. I have some very high tepm grease here i was thinking of using.
I've just looked at a few videos and learned about the 'boot issue'! Lot of people struggling to get the things out. I assume you mean to put silicone grease on the boot? That's the bit that gets stuck in the block. I didn't know silicone grease could take the heat. I have some very high tepm grease here i was thinking of using.
Sorry typo - silicon paste!
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This is the part no:
G 052 565 A1
However, if you look at the pictures of the tube online it clearly states ‘Silicone Grease’ in the English translation:
www.ecstuning.com
As you can see, an OEM 20g tube is more expensive than kryptonite!
Personally, I would use an ‘dielectric automotive grease’ (also search ‘dielectric tuneup grease’) i.e. Loctite 37534
The same stuff can also be used for the battery terminals too, so won’t be wasted.
G 052 565 A1
However, if you look at the pictures of the tube online it clearly states ‘Silicone Grease’ in the English translation:
Silicone Grease - 20 grams
Silicone lubrication for spark plug and ignition coil boots
www.ecstuning.com
As you can see, an OEM 20g tube is more expensive than kryptonite!
Personally, I would use an ‘dielectric automotive grease’ (also search ‘dielectric tuneup grease’) i.e. Loctite 37534
The same stuff can also be used for the battery terminals too, so won’t be wasted.
When I worked at Rolls-Royce we used MS4 Silicone grease, think it was made by Dow Corning, still got some somewhere.
When I worked for an avionics systems contractor, I "saved" an unopened tube of that Dow Corning stuff from being binned as it had gone beyond its internal QA "time", it has lasted a very long time, the plan is to only apply a small "ring" of it round the lower surface of the HT connector extension, making sure that the "ring" is small enough diameter so that it applies itself to the insulator of the new plugs when you fit the coils back on. These plugs have a solid thick copper sealing/bearing washer BTW.
Back in the day of ignition points we used it on the cam lobes and contact heel, great stuff. I was wondering if the plugs had a sealing washer or tapered seat, you've answered my thought!
Interesting to be following this thread. Knowing I do most of my own service work and light repairs, the lads at AVW have mentioned to me about how difficult it can be to get the coil packs out of these engines when renewing plugs - mine is a 1.0 litre 3 cylinder EA 211. She'll be 5 years old this spring and I'm going to get them to do the timing belt/idlers etc at that time. Think I may just get them to do the plugs too - by the way, I'm pretty sure you are not supposed to gap these long life plugs as the central electrode is very brittle and easily damaged? They come out of the box ready to fit I'm told.
I'm just starting to read about the plastic part of the water pump distorting and causing leaks. Mine won't have done a high mileage (probably around 25,000) but I'm thinking of getting them to do a pump too, at the same time, just for peace of mind - although, with it not being part of the timing belt drive train it doesn't "have" to be done. I'll probably decide when they give me a price! Also should probably get the aircon gasses changed as that's not been done since a faulty compressor was renewed under warranty about 3 years ago. Aircon is working fine at this time.
Regarding the lubricant. I'm going to have a look at my tin of ceramic anti seize hoping it'll be compatible with rubber? If so I could pull the coils every year and give them a light smear just to keep things free. Actually I probably should just get some of the right stuff and do that every year anyway.
I'm just starting to read about the plastic part of the water pump distorting and causing leaks. Mine won't have done a high mileage (probably around 25,000) but I'm thinking of getting them to do a pump too, at the same time, just for peace of mind - although, with it not being part of the timing belt drive train it doesn't "have" to be done. I'll probably decide when they give me a price! Also should probably get the aircon gasses changed as that's not been done since a faulty compressor was renewed under warranty about 3 years ago. Aircon is working fine at this time.
Regarding the lubricant. I'm going to have a look at my tin of ceramic anti seize hoping it'll be compatible with rubber? If so I could pull the coils every year and give them a light smear just to keep things free. Actually I probably should just get some of the right stuff and do that every year anyway.
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