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Have you lost the pattern that is ontop of the piston or is it still there? they look totaly smooth to me, im unsure about going too mad, i take it you just give them a quick few go's with the hone and not took much off?
EDIT i read you used a flex hone, what grit matey?
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No, the pattern is still there, I just cleaned off all the baked on carbon.
I used a 180 grit FlexHone tool, GB style, silicone carbide, 89mm diameter. I was going to go 83mm as per the rebuild videos but they told me 89mm was a better size for the bore. Certainly worked, left a perfect cross-hatch pattern. Got it from here, not cheap mind, around £70!
http://www.pacehigh.co.uk/pages/default.aspx?productID=23954&mode=productDetails
I used a 180 grit FlexHone tool, GB style, silicone carbide, 89mm diameter. I was going to go 83mm as per the rebuild videos but they told me 89mm was a better size for the bore. Certainly worked, left a perfect cross-hatch pattern. Got it from here, not cheap mind, around £70!
http://www.pacehigh.co.uk/pages/default.aspx?productID=23954&mode=productDetails
I take it you mean and 89mm flexhone and not you honed them to 89 LOL. I may go for the 600 grit as i dont want nothing too aggresive, just to take the glaze off the cylinder, i got a block here to have ago on and put a ring in to check its all good so may get one orderd, how did you clean the face of the block? Ive never really done any machining/refinishing work on blocks as ive never had to, never really gone into the depths of proper engine rebuilding, just changed pistons etc, did stript downs at college crank out etc 2 years ago but they wer too tight to let us use hones or anything decent LOL.
Yeah, you can't hone a bore out by 8mm - lol! A 180 flexhone isn't really aggressive for deglazing, it's what most recommend. I couldn't see the crosshatching on my bores so that's why I went for more than just wet'n'dry by hand. To clean the deck and head surfaces I used a 3M Rolec yellow brush head on a drill, worked great.
Im unsure weather to use a normal hone and just go easy with 280 grit, or get a flex hone, flex hone is more expensive but im sure normal stones could do the same.
Well I have the flexible honing stones tool as well, with medium and fine stones, I never used it, you can have it for £20 if you want, PM me. The fine stones are perfect for deglazing.
£20 posted? Sounds good mate, dont have cash till end of the week though 
Im sure ive got a roloc somwhere, unless i left it where i last worked hmmmm, now you said that its got me thinking to where the hell it is. Ah well will have to get a new one, only a few quid
Im sure ive got a roloc somwhere, unless i left it where i last worked hmmmm, now you said that its got me thinking to where the hell it is. Ah well will have to get a new one, only a few quid
Would have sent you the TDI backing plate and water,debris,etc will still get into that area mate regardless.
Sorry but I am still trying my best to make it as complete and affordable for everyone.
The OEM ALH 1.9 TDI oil pan (similar to what Eurospec/overland sells) just uses a simple plate to block off that area.
Sorry for highjacking the thread.Carry on
Fair enough, good to know there is something that will cover it up - I wish you'd tell me these things before instead of after. So to make this pan fit, you really need the flywheel plate and a return line, plus possibly having to modify one edge of the pan as well to get it to fit?
If I can't sell it then I'll have to fit it as I think I'd get the Backdraft OEM+ pan sold alot easier.
Can the TDi backing plate be bought in the UK easy enough? Part number?
If I can't sell it then I'll have to fit it as I think I'd get the Backdraft OEM+ pan sold alot easier.
Can the TDi backing plate be bought in the UK easy enough? Part number?
Id be intrested in the plate too, allthough its made without one, once its lowerd all it takes is a stone and the teeth on the fly will be gone.
Still waiting on part number - hurry up !?!
Once I've got the blockoff plate for the flywheel I can get the INA sump fitted and get the BDM one sold. If I can't get one then I'll just have to make my own one out of some alloy sheet.
Once I've got the blockoff plate for the flywheel I can get the INA sump fitted and get the BDM one sold. If I can't get one then I'll just have to make my own one out of some alloy sheet.
Why not just make your own
place it on the box and draw round it Im fabricating a rear turbo support bracket as mine is probably been flattend by a bus now , whats left to do now then?
I think I will, getting kinda sick of waiting on bits, part numbers, other people etc., I just want to get on with it and get it finished.
Tomorrow I'll hopefully be fitting the head and exhaust manifold and INA sump - then onto the timing belt, engine mount, alternator, inlet manifold, cooling system, etc. etc.
Still waiting on the Kevlar timing belt, if it doesn't arrive by the time I'm ready to do the belt then it won't get fitted, I'll just fit the new OE one in the kit.
Tomorrow I'll hopefully be fitting the head and exhaust manifold and INA sump - then onto the timing belt, engine mount, alternator, inlet manifold, cooling system, etc. etc.
Still waiting on the Kevlar timing belt, if it doesn't arrive by the time I'm ready to do the belt then it won't get fitted, I'll just fit the new OE one in the kit.
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