cheers for that man i didnt want to take the bar out get the spring in and then put the bar in to find the dam thing has come back out just wonder if there was a trick but ill do that in the morning the job has annoyed the hell out of me and ive got use of the work car so i gave it a rest today lol but yeah cheers again man
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Over centre spring
Hi guys, I just finished reinstalling my peddle box & would just like to add a bit to the how to.
I basically followed step 9. with these changes,
*With the peddle fully deployed (clutch cable disconnected)
*Using a small plastic scraper/spatula like the one you would use with spak filler/no more gaps from the hardware store to cover the gap between box & the wall.
*Now you will have one end of the spring against the pedal with the other end hard against the plastic spatula.
*Using a large common screwdriver in the slot at the top of the spring, push/guide the spring into the well for the top of the spring. The spring will compress as it slides & wont get stuck in the gap!
* connect the clutch cable, job done!
9. Clutch Over-Centre Spring
1. Position the pedal end of the spring onto the pedal
2. Use an open-ended spanner (I used 12mm) to compress it slightly and push it up the metal wall towards the pedal box. It will get stuck in a gap between the two.
3. Use a screwdriver to lever the spring end onto the pedal box. By positioning the end of the screwdriver on the pedal box, it almost acts as a rail when you pull on the screwdriver.
cheers
Phil
Hi guys, I just finished reinstalling my peddle box & would just like to add a bit to the how to.
I basically followed step 9. with these changes,
*With the peddle fully deployed (clutch cable disconnected)
*Using a small plastic scraper/spatula like the one you would use with spak filler/no more gaps from the hardware store to cover the gap between box & the wall.
*Now you will have one end of the spring against the pedal with the other end hard against the plastic spatula.
*Using a large common screwdriver in the slot at the top of the spring, push/guide the spring into the well for the top of the spring. The spring will compress as it slides & wont get stuck in the gap!
* connect the clutch cable, job done!
9. Clutch Over-Centre Spring
1. Position the pedal end of the spring onto the pedal
2. Use an open-ended spanner (I used 12mm) to compress it slightly and push it up the metal wall towards the pedal box. It will get stuck in a gap between the two.
3. Use a screwdriver to lever the spring end onto the pedal box. By positioning the end of the screwdriver on the pedal box, it almost acts as a rail when you pull on the screwdriver.
cheers
Phil
i compressed the over centre spring in a vice, and secured it compressed with cable ties , put it in place and snipped the cable ties 
prey
Guest
I only joined to find out info on this problem - great stuff by the way! as I had to fix one with the bracket coming away but not broken totally off.
I'll take some pics in the light but I welded it in the car by welding a piece of bar into the L under the bracket and tagging the top of the bracket to the bulkhead - works a treat. I'll put the pics up soon and maybe they will help someone out as this thread did me.
I'll take some pics in the light but I welded it in the car by welding a piece of bar into the L under the bracket and tagging the top of the bracket to the bulkhead - works a treat. I'll put the pics up soon and maybe they will help someone out as this thread did me.
After removing a pedal box from a scrapped ibiza without dropping the column and then replacing my pedal box with the column dropped I'd say it is worth the effort in drilling the shear bolts.
With the column dropped it's possible to unbolt the pedal box and detach the brake pedal and remove the whole assembly. This makes switching over the pedals and springs much easier and means less time spent lying on your back in the footwell.
It took me 3 hours to remove the pedal box without dropping the column from the donor car using only a small socket set and brute force. Removing and then replacing the box in my car took a total of 7 hours, although I took my time making sure everything was going to be ok.
With the column dropped it's possible to unbolt the pedal box and detach the brake pedal and remove the whole assembly. This makes switching over the pedals and springs much easier and means less time spent lying on your back in the footwell.
It took me 3 hours to remove the pedal box without dropping the column from the donor car using only a small socket set and brute force. Removing and then replacing the box in my car took a total of 7 hours, although I took my time making sure everything was going to be ok.
Mr Slak
Guest
So, excuse my ignorance but do seat do a reinforced box or not? If not do i have to go to a stealership or will a motor factors like unipart do them?
Dreading doing this job, but im not paying for a garage to do it and i need my car for work so gotta get it done asap. I think my box has broken in a different place from where it seems it usually breaks.
Cheers for all this info its gonna help loads.
Dreading doing this job, but im not paying for a garage to do it and i need my car for work so gotta get it done asap. I think my box has broken in a different place from where it seems it usually breaks.
Cheers for all this info its gonna help loads.
dealer only part id imagine, not really a commonly manufactured and replaced part really... but even then theres no reinforced item, most do their own reinforcing
think its about £60 for the bracket
infact its on the first page
think its about £60 for the bracket
infact its on the first page
I replaced mine earlier on this year, the new one has a couple of extra welds compared to the old one (my ibiza is a 99 model) but i wouldn't say it was re-inforced, not by a long stretch!! And it is main dealer only part,i phoned round a couple of local motor factors at the time and was told the same thing by all of them
you take your old one out, then spend the money to buy a new 'box on welding old one up, unless you can get 'mates rates'.
even if you have to get a new 'box i'd still recommend welding it.
even if you have to get a new 'box i'd still recommend welding it.
Mr Slak
Guest
So I got a pedal box and a clutch cable ordered through my local vw dealer which properly confused the poor parts man. Is there anything else that im forgetting? think im gonna get myself a Haynes manual for this one too just to be safe. Oh and how much do you think I should pay for the welding? Don't wanna get ripped off on that.
You will also want the brake pedal bracket unless you manage to remove the pedal box without disconnecting the pedal.
The existing bracket will likely need to be drilled or chiselled out and the replacement just clips into the pedal back. The part number you need is: S1H0721169A
It would also be worth getting the small circular clip which attaches to the pedal box where the clutch cable runs through. You can get this one out without breaking it if you are careful but for the sake of a couple of quid i'd replace it to save time and hassle. I don't have the part number at hand for this one but if you want me to find it I can have a look through my receipts.
Having done it both with and without removing the steering column i found it much easier to take it out. If you do you'll need to replace the shear bolts holding the column up, you can just use some normal bolts to do this, I think they were some pretty short M8 ones.
The existing bracket will likely need to be drilled or chiselled out and the replacement just clips into the pedal back. The part number you need is: S1H0721169A
It would also be worth getting the small circular clip which attaches to the pedal box where the clutch cable runs through. You can get this one out without breaking it if you are careful but for the sake of a couple of quid i'd replace it to save time and hassle. I don't have the part number at hand for this one but if you want me to find it I can have a look through my receipts.
Having done it both with and without removing the steering column i found it much easier to take it out. If you do you'll need to replace the shear bolts holding the column up, you can just use some normal bolts to do this, I think they were some pretty short M8 ones.
Mr Slak
Guest
Thank you, ill get those ordered today a part number for the other clip would be great if its not too much trouble. I was planning on leaving the steering column in place as removing the sheer bolts sounds pretty tricky. Thank you for all the help I ve never been on a forum with such friendly and helpful members.
The other part number I have is S6K2721147 for the clutch cable stop, cost me £2.58 excluding VAT.
I would recommend drilling out the shear bolts personally. It was a lot of hassle trying to get them out but made removing and reinstalling the pedal box so much easier. Instead of having to pull out the shaft that holds the pedals to the box and then removing the parts separately you can just drop the column and then remove the complete pedal box assembly including springs and pedals.
This makes putting it back together much easier and saves you having to struggle trying to slot it back together and putting the springs back in while lying on your back in the footwell. If you do decide to remove the bolts it might be worth trying to cut a slit into the heads and then using a screwdriver to remove them. I only had a drill and it probably took me a good hour just drilling the heads off. The bolt nearer to the passenger side is pretty tight and needed a long drill bit to reach too which didn't help.
Good luck and hope it goes well, get in touch if you have any issues.
I would recommend drilling out the shear bolts personally. It was a lot of hassle trying to get them out but made removing and reinstalling the pedal box so much easier. Instead of having to pull out the shaft that holds the pedals to the box and then removing the parts separately you can just drop the column and then remove the complete pedal box assembly including springs and pedals.
This makes putting it back together much easier and saves you having to struggle trying to slot it back together and putting the springs back in while lying on your back in the footwell. If you do decide to remove the bolts it might be worth trying to cut a slit into the heads and then using a screwdriver to remove them. I only had a drill and it probably took me a good hour just drilling the heads off. The bolt nearer to the passenger side is pretty tight and needed a long drill bit to reach too which didn't help.
Good luck and hope it goes well, get in touch if you have any issues.
Mr Slak
Guest
I went to start this last night and got completely confused haha. So if i want to drop the whole box out including pedals as this sounds like the easiest way to then dismantle it and put everything on the new bracket, how do i disconnect the brake pedal from the rod behind, is it just a case of breaking that clip thats on the back of the pedal?
Sorry for not getting this, its an area of mechanics i ve never had to deal with before.
Also being a bit slow on the uptake i can't figure out how to remove the clutch cable i bought a new one to fit.
Thank you again for the help and being patient with the slow minded noob haha.
Sorry for not getting this, its an area of mechanics i ve never had to deal with before.
Also being a bit slow on the uptake i can't figure out how to remove the clutch cable i bought a new one to fit.
Thank you again for the help and being patient with the slow minded noob haha.
You will need to break the clip on the back of the brake pedal, it is pretty tough though and took me a while.
If you have your replacement clip already you should be able to see how it clips in, i ended up drilling the tabs off from the holes in the side of the pedal and then using a large flat headed screwdriver to chip away at parts of the clip until the rod could be removed. Using a mirror also helped a lot in being able to see what was going on. I think some people have just pulled really hard on the pedal to remove it but as you know it's on pretty tight and it felt like i'd do more damage than good attempting that.
Getting just the end clutch cable off from the pedal was pretty easy although putting it back on involved using string to pull it down as you probably won't be able to get enough of a grip on it using just your hands.
I also have a new clutch cable waiting to go in but I still haven't got round to it. I think it should be relatively straightforward, the scuttle panel will need to come off which is held on by some small metal clips under the rubber seal and then it should be possible to see where the cable needs to go. It might be worth trying to tie the end of the new cable to the old one and then just pulling them both through. One thing to remember is not to release the white clip which is on the new cable until fully connected, it secures the self adjusting mechanism and is apparently very hard to reset once released. Hopefully someone else can help more with this as i'll need to know when I get around to doing it.
I wouldn't worry about finding it confusing - I had pretty much no idea what to do and it took me probably 8 hours of solid work to swap in the new box. Definately worth it in the end though!
If you have your replacement clip already you should be able to see how it clips in, i ended up drilling the tabs off from the holes in the side of the pedal and then using a large flat headed screwdriver to chip away at parts of the clip until the rod could be removed. Using a mirror also helped a lot in being able to see what was going on. I think some people have just pulled really hard on the pedal to remove it but as you know it's on pretty tight and it felt like i'd do more damage than good attempting that.
Getting just the end clutch cable off from the pedal was pretty easy although putting it back on involved using string to pull it down as you probably won't be able to get enough of a grip on it using just your hands.
I also have a new clutch cable waiting to go in but I still haven't got round to it. I think it should be relatively straightforward, the scuttle panel will need to come off which is held on by some small metal clips under the rubber seal and then it should be possible to see where the cable needs to go. It might be worth trying to tie the end of the new cable to the old one and then just pulling them both through. One thing to remember is not to release the white clip which is on the new cable until fully connected, it secures the self adjusting mechanism and is apparently very hard to reset once released. Hopefully someone else can help more with this as i'll need to know when I get around to doing it.
I wouldn't worry about finding it confusing - I had pretty much no idea what to do and it took me probably 8 hours of solid work to swap in the new box. Definately worth it in the end though!
Mr Slak
Guest
so i ve been trying to cut a gouge out of the top of the shear bolts to use a screwdriver and its just taking way too long to cut. so what do you guys mean by drilling out the bolts? do i drill straight through? how does this make it come undone? also theres a nut on the other side do i need to undo this i cant see how i get in there with a spanner?
ill get this eventually lol.
cheers guys.
ill get this eventually lol.
cheers guys.
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