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Mk1 1.6 S Crank Pulley 'fell' off

akchappers

Active Member
Jun 27, 2010
3,069
7
Gillingham Dorset.
buy a new car! Flog that thing on eBay and take off any mods you've done and return to standard! Then let me know you're budget. Il get you a cheap leon.....
Ak
 

bwtalbot

Active Member
Feb 10, 2009
40
0
5


5


fookadoodledoo! :censored: Hindsight is a wonderful thing. Looking back it may have been better to scrap it and buy another one.... or maybe not buy the car in the first place.

I am yet to take all the valves out and check them...
 

bwtalbot

Active Member
Feb 10, 2009
40
0
What is odd is that ALL the exhaust valves are bent but None of the inlet valves appear to be. None of the inlet valves were bent the last time either.

I'm sure people would suggest doing all of them but I begrudge spending any more money on this car, and I can barely afford to do these repairs as is.
 

bwtalbot

Active Member
Feb 10, 2009
40
0
Finished the rebuild. Started first time ...but theres a tapping noise. No misfiring, and it is idling alright. It's just making a tapping noise.

Let it get up to temperature and still tapping.

Haven't taken it for a drive yet as I'm scared it could be something serious or could go bang.

Could it be that the oil hasn't worked it's way up to the cams yet?
 

Conzo_f

Active Member
Aug 2, 2013
157
0
plymouth
Oil should get straight to the cams, you need to know if it's bottom end or top, you could have killed the bottom end bearings from the inpact of the valves hitting the pistons, but without having a listen if it's top or bottom wouldn't know
 

bwtalbot

Active Member
Feb 10, 2009
40
0
Had a listen and felt various areas using a screw driver. It's definitely coming from the cams.

I ran it and revved it for a while and the clacking/tapping became irregular.

After a while it cut out.

I also noticed movement in the cam pulleys whilst running. They seem to wobble away from the cam cover. Could this be bent cam shafts?
 

bwtalbot

Active Member
Feb 10, 2009
40
0
Got round to fixing it this weekend. Took the cam carrier off (which involved removing the cam belt, alternator, ac compressor, mount for alt and ac, and a few other bits) and couldn't see anything obvious.

Took out the tappets and put each in a vice and squeezed the old oil out so they all compressed nicely. Put the cam carrier back on very carefully to make sure none of the followers got knocked off any valves.

Put the cam belt back on and timed it up. Started it up and the noise was gone. It seemed rough in a different way though... turned out another ignition coil had gone (thats 2 now). Waited till I could get another coil and check it definitely was that before putting it all back together again.

Taken it out for a few times and all seems to be ok. No particularly obvious noises, no misfiring, and no warning lights on the dash.

So far so good, hopefully will be ok this time.

Heres a pic of everything that has been fitted/removed. The only things I can't find is the old water pump, a pair of tensioners, and a few seals.

15ogcy0.jpg
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bwtalbot

Active Member
Feb 10, 2009
40
0
Depends whether GSF will refund me the cost of the parts I had to replace because the tensioner bolt snapped in the first cam belt kit I bought from them.

Original Cam belt kit, water pump, oil + filter: £146
1st rebuild: head bolts, head gasket kit, 2 exhaust valves, antifreeze: £96
2nd rebuild after realising head was warped: oil + filter, antifreeze, head gasket, head bolts: £72
3rd rebuild after tensioner bolt snapped: Better cam belt kit, antifreeze, head bolts, head gasket, 8 exhaust valves: £200

There was an alternator £35, a head skim £40, and 2 ignition coils £54 in there too. So total about £650. £450 if I can get a refund from GSF. Plus any tools I had to buy.

With hindsight, I would have just bought another. But originally it was just £140 for the cam belt kit, which would have been it if my mate didn't **** up it up.
 
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