Locking wheel nut (key)

[OJ9693]

So.. I went to take my wheels off at the weekend to put my mudflaps on and at the same time i could clean the alloys properly whilst the wheels were off. However my locking wheel nut is knackered. It's not just rounded off but the inside has loads of cracks like it was used under a tonne of pressure. I probably made it a bit worse because i didn't realise and still tried to use it. When i did realise i obviously stopped and knew i need another locking wheel nut key.

I think the dealership had ruined the key as they gave me all new tyres when i purchased the car in August, as i haven't had to use it yet and that was the last time it would have been used.

My question is how do i know what one i need? it Has a letter on the back of it but apart from that i don't know where to look?? I've seen some on Ebay but i don't know if i should get them from an oem supplier (ie SEAT)

Any advice welcome, thanks.

 

[martin j.]

Some dealers will have a complete set of option keys, maybe 20 units, it’s possible check the pattern and re order a replacement from the part number via Seat, or remove the locking nuts and fit either a decent aftermarket set, or fit plain bolts in their place, other cars I’ve had were supplied with a case for the removal tool with a part number in it to aid replacement if required. When I supplied new lock nuts/bolts at work I made sure the customer had a copy of the part number and the advice was to note the number on the front of the V5, a place that it should be readily found again if required.

 

[OJ9693]

Some dealers will have a complete set of option keys, maybe 20 units, it’s possible check the pattern and re order a replacement from the part number via Seat, or remove the locking nuts and fit either a decent aftermarket set, or fit plain bolts in their place, other cars I’ve had were supplied with a case for the removal tool with a part number in it to aid replacement if required. When I supplied new lock nuts/bolts at work I made sure the customer had a copy of the part number and the advice was to note the number on the front of the V5, a place that it should be readily found again if required.

I figured there would be some sort of part number and/or code, but unfortunately this car didn't come with a case, it's just the key in some polystyrene in the boot, along with the jack and spare wheel.

Thanks for the advice. I guess i'll look have to look in the boot for some numbers or codes. The key has a letter on the back of it but it's not taken me anywhere to finding the right one. Thanks again.

 

[RUM4MO]

Okay, take close up pictures of your wheel bolts and your security adaptor as well as recording the letter/number on the end of the security adaptor, then start looking on ebay for a replacement.

These McGard security wheel bolts are used by many other manufacturers and some of them use a different system for identifying them so you might end up buying the right adaptor but it has a different code on the end of it.

Just make sure that you take enough time to end up with as perfect a picture of the bolt end and the adaptor end as you can.

I've bought a new key via ebay and it was not a VW Group one, for my 2011 Audi S4 and use it in the garage to save my original one for roadside wheel changing - plus, I have had that car since June 2013 and nobody but me removes the wheels from the car and I always use a torque wrench, plus if it went into a VAG Indie specialist for suspension work, it would be handed over with normal bolts in place of the security ones, for the reasons that you have discovered.

Maybe take a risk and post up the code on the end of your security adaptor just in case someone else has done what I did and that would lead you to a correct alternative adaptor number, I'd think that the chances of anyone stealing your wheels in the future, after making that disclosure is quite low.

Alternatively, see if you can buy one via McGard website if they offer that service for original VW Group adaptors.

 

[RUM4MO]

I've bought 4 VW Group cars new and all these cars came with security bolts fitted as standard, and none came with any case for the security adaptor as it was just part of the car/toolkit - if a car was fitted with security wheel bolts at the dealership, then maybe the box would be left, but it tends to only have the generic part number for that kit with no reference to the adaptor code number/letter.

 

[Mr Pig]

There is a letter stamped on the key. Which letter is it? I have a key here I don't need.

 

[OJ9693]

@RUM4MO I will do that thankyou.

@Mr Pig It has B on the end. I'm not seeing any online that also have B on the back..

 

[Mr Pig]

Ah, the one I have is 'P' I think. It's in the shed but pretty sure it's 'P'.

Why not just fit standard bolts, do away with the locking one?

 

[OJ9693]

Ah, the one I have is 'P' I think. It's in the shed but pretty sure it's 'P'.

Why not just fit standard bolts, do away with the locking one?

Well i was thinking that, but i'll still need to get the fu**ers off lol

 

[RUM4MO]

One thing to consider, I have 2 cars and strangely both of them have the same adaptor code letter but from completely different sets of patterns.

That is the reason why you need to get very good quality pictures of bolt head and adaptor.

If you measure the diameter of the counterbore in these wheels, you might get them out using a security nut/bolt removal kit, which are easy to buy online, then either buy another set of VW Group locking wheel bolts or just 4 standard bolts, which again you can buy online but from a proper wheel bolt manufacturer like Brimecc, what you need are R13 ie radiused bolts M14 X 1.5mm X 27mm with a 17mm hex head as that is what is used on original VW Group wheels alloys or metal.

Edit:- maybe send this seller a good picture of your bolt head pattern and the damaged adaptor pattern

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152242666949

Remember VW Group etc don't manufacture these security bolts so probably the same source as VX/Opel though they maybe use a different identifying system.

 

[Seriously?]

Or here:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-Loc...-Provided-with-Matching-Service-/163717905732

 

[Walone]

@RUM4MO I will do that thankyou.

@Mr Pig It has B on the end. I'm not seeing any online that also have B on the back..

Mine has a B on it.

 

[black_sheep]

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news...

Normally when the locking nut key is knackered, at least one of the locking wheel nuts will have been mangled in the process - I had a set replaced after a ‘national chain’ damaged mine whilst replacing the tyres - fortunately, I found this out a couple of weeks later when changing to winter wheels, so at not cost to me.

I had to get local company to weld a nut onto the locking nut to remove, but this damaged the paint on the alloy too, so had to be refurbed.

Coincidentally this was also key ‘B’.

 

[OJ9693]

Well luckily only one of them is slightly damaged because I checked them all after finding the key was damaged. There’s no way that key will work though which makes me think they might have had to use another key to fit them and then left me with that one. Maybe just a coincidence I don’t know. Will see what happens. I appreciate the help all

Ps. the picture makes it look better than it is

 

[RUM4MO]

I suppose its a tough call, to protect the wheels as much as possible it would be a smart move to get a "B" adaptor and see if you can get the other 3 wheel security bolts out, then attempt the same with the 4th one and replace them all with plain bolts and 4 new bolt covers.

I've always had locking wheel nuts/bolts and never had any issues over the past 38 years of buying new cars, so if I ended up in your situation, I'd probably buy a replacement set of security bolts and hope you don't end up with the "B" code ones as they do look to be the weakest, or one of the weakest versions - not good!!

 

[OJ9693]

I suppose its a tough call, to protect the wheels as much as possible it would be a smart move to get a "B" adaptor and see if you can get the other 3 wheel security bolts out, then attempt the same with the 4th one and replace them all with plain bolts and 4 new bolt covers.

That is exactly what i am going to do. I will look at aftermarket ones if all of them come off.

Like you said i think the shape of this key is a bad design, surely it would need some acute angles for it to be effective? These are quite round with the tightest angle being 90 degrees..

 

[RUM4MO]

Trouble is McGard do seem to be the industry standard for these items, your problems seem to be forcing me get on with buying in a set of 4 or 5 normal bolts for both our cars, and always remove the locking bolts before handing the car in for MOT etc, just in case some idiot over tightens or uses a impact wrench on these McGards.
I'm maybe luckier than some owners in that I swop wheels+tyres over between summer and winter types, so all the wheel bolts on our cars gets "moved" every 6 months - and that might be the key to stopping these bolts becoming tricky to remove even if they have not been over tightened or tightened using an air gun.