LCR light weight edition, Getting broken up

[Willie]

I could helicoil these but as a strange size it would be difficult to find easily. I don't give up easily on things.
I'm not willing to have anything in the back of my mind that might not be right when on the track.
What ill more than likely do is keep this as a spare for the near side.

 

[dholdi]

I hope the mods dont mind in this instance.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400195702676&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Seems to have loads and you can buy it now at a £10.
Just watched one get bid up to nearly £11, lol people dont look properly.

 

[Willie]

n

o

I hope the mods dont mind in this instance.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400195702676&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Seems to have loads and you can buy it now at a £10.
Just watched one get bid up to nearly £11, lol people dont look properly.

Cheers

 

[Willie]

New shorter plan!!

I'm always trying to do too much before finally get to drive the car again.

This plan has changed!!

The offside caliper seems fine for just now, I've gotten the bleed nipple open and will be bleeding the brakes this afternoon.

As you know I had planned to strip out the OEM oil pump when doing the baffled sump. This was going to be a bit of a pig of a job doing it the way I was going to do it.
When I have the OEM sump off I'll try and remove the OEM oil pump, if it doesn't come easy it will stay there till LAITA'

So new plan is to bleed the brakes, change out the sump and do a service and get the car back on the road ASAP.

Front end is all built up.

MMMMmm shiny new bits

The rotors are still holding up well, measuring just under 27mm in thickness. These have seen off a set of DS2500's, 1/2-3/4 through a set of DS3000's and have been through 5 track days, 1 1/4 mile day and about 15,000 road miles.

I have 2 issues with these rotors:

1. The grooves are swept away from the pads so not the most aggressive set up

2. The grooves were only 2-3mm deep. When these disappeared there was a noticeable reduction in braking performance. Not huge but noticeable.

I know Bill will echo the above too.
For the price its very difficult to beat this set up.
TBH unless your going to be using this set up on 100% track this is the perfect braking system for the OEM calipers.
I hope these last till the end of this year, I'm sure they will.
When I come to needing to replace these I will be considering all options.

Please taken nothing bad from this, this is a very good set up.
BUT
I always like to move forward with things.

Quick shot of the undersealed sills

Right, onto brake bleeding operations

 

[RobDon]

Oil pump comes away easily Willie, shouldn't give you any problems. Undo the bolt on the front and pull the sprocket off, then unbolt the oil pump, 3 bolts if I remember right.

 

[Willie]

Oil pump comes away easily Willie, shouldn't give you any problems. Undo the bolt on the front and pull the sprocket off, then unbolt the oil pump, 3 bolts if I remember right.

I had a hold of this last time I changed out the sump but got freaked out when trying to undo this the whole crank was turning.
At this point I didn't know if it had any detrimental effect, and TBH I still don't.

Did you have a back up on something to stop the crank from turning?

 

[RobDon]

I put a big screwdriver through one of the holes in the sprocket to stop it turning then undid the bolt, same for tightening.

 

[Willie]

I did think about this at the time but as I didn't really need to take it off I just left it be.
Cheers for this Rob

 

[Whitechapel]

Geat read, this car is awesome Willie!

 

[Willie]

Geat read, this car is awesome Willie!

Cheers bud

 

[James23Parkin]

Hey Willie,

I was really surprised by the amount of surface rust found under the arches and side skirts; a bit frightening actually and something I'd never given a second thought about! Good on you for tackling it by yourself.

The suspension work is something that I'm about to move on to, so your posts are very helpful. I'll be servicing the coilovers, replacing the arb and wish bone bushes, as well as the top mount bushes. I hadn't thought about the drop links, but as they're reasonably priced, i might as well; I've never had a go at this type of work before but I like to give things ago. I've had a look at the website that you referenced; there are numerous drop links when you search. Did you buy the ones that say Volvo in the product title/code. Could I ask if you have a product code? Any help that you could give would be greatly appreciated.

I hope everything goes well when replacing the oil pump. When do you plan to do your first track day of the year Willie? I've never done one but it looks good fun.

Thanks Willie,

James.

 

[Willie]

Hey Willie,

I was really surprised by the amount of surface rust found under the arches and side skirts; a bit frightening actually and something I'd never given a second thought about! Good on you for tackling it by yourself.

The suspension work is something that I'm about to move on to, so your posts are very helpful. I'll be servicing the coilovers, replacing the arb and wish bone bushes, as well as the top mount bushes. I hadn't thought about the drop links, but as they're reasonably priced, i might as well; I've never had a go at this type of work before but I like to give things ago. I've had a look at the website that you referenced; there are numerous drop links when you search. Did you buy the ones that say Volvo in the product title/code. Could I ask if you have a product code? Any help that you could give would be greatly appreciated.

I hope everything goes well when replacing the oil pump. When do you plan to do your first track day of the year Willie? I've never done one but it looks good fun.

Thanks Willie,

James.

Alright James, your exactly the sort of person I did this thread for.
I too was like you, not having the experience. Hopefully my experiences, warts and all, will help you out.

The drop links are:

Stabiliser link Right, 116 060 0012/HD

Stabiliser link left, 116 060 0011/HD

When you looking to do the different aspects of the jobs that I've done, go to first page and 3rd post of this thread and you'll find links to the sections of each thing I've done.

First track day was supposed to be the 14th of May but this is looking doubtful, not due to car.

Good luck.

Please feel free to PM with any questions, even if you think there stupid, best to ask than to break or hurt yourself

 

[James23Parkin]

Alright James, your exactly the sort of person I did this thread for.
I too was like you, not having the experience. Hopefully my experiences, warts and all, will help you out.

The drop links are:

Stabiliser link Right, 116 060 0012/HD

Stabiliser link left, 116 060 0011/HD

When you looking to do the different aspects of the jobs that I've done, go to first page and 3rd post of this thread and you'll find links to the sections of each thing I've done.

First track day was supposed to be the 14th of May but this is looking doubtful, not due to car.

Good luck.

Please feel free to PM with any questions, even if you think there stupid, best to ask than to break or hurt yourself

Thanks Willie, it's greatly appreciated!

James.

 

[Willie]

Just given David at SereMotors a list for further maintenance bits and pieces.
This list will allow me to get the sump and oil pump done and also the timing belt, water pump and tensioner. I'm getting a fan controller to see if this will sort out my twin fan issue too.
TBH a bit scared of doing this but gonna give it a bash. I have a few people who I can call on to check everything before I finish/fire it up. Also there are plenty guides on here how to do it too.

So hopefully car should be on the road i the next 3 weeks.

 

[csd_19]

Just given David at SereMotors a list for further maintenance bits and pieces.
This list will allow me to get the sump and oil pump done and also the timing belt, water pump and tensioner. I'm getting a fan controller to see if this will sort out my twin fan issue too.
TBH a bit scared of doing this but gonna give it a bash. I have a few people who I can call on to check everything before I finish/fire it up. Also there are plenty guides on here how to do it too.

So hopefully car should be on the road i the next 3 weeks.

Gaun yersel' fella

You've tackled a fair wee amount so far on the car, things that others wouldn't dream of doing or knowing where to start. Keep the faith

 

[Willie]

Maintenance bits are here.
Confirmed metal impellored water pump too.

Now onto checking how big my balls are before tackling this timing belt

Think I've found gauges. I now have a 3 pod gauge holder for in place of the central vents, cheers Phil

The gauges I'm looking at are mid range and look like their suitable for my applications. Going to go for oil temperature, boost to 30PSI and spare spot for either oil pressure or AFR, depending where I'll put the AFR one.
I'm thinking the AFR will go to the right hand side of the speedo in a single pod

 

[8bit]

Just out of interest but why do you want an AFR gauge? Isn't that the sort of thing you'd just check every so often by getting a mate with VAGCOM to log for you?

 

[Al]

The air fuel ratio is a good idea, especially on track days, because if the ratio goes nuts, you know its a good time to take a break and check for an issue rather than wreck your engine.

 

[8bit]

Fair point, how could I forget the trackday thing given it's Willie's car, lol...

 

[cuprabaz]

Innovate LC-1 and Gauge. ;-)