-
Welcome to our new sponsor Lecatona, a brand dedicated to enhancing performance for VAG group sports cars, including SEAT, Audi, Volkswagen and Škoda. Specializing in High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) upgrades.
-
The forums will be offline for maintenance on Friday 15th November at 10pm for up to an hour. Thank you for your patience.
Did a track day at Pembrey on the weekend with Kidwelly Motor Club (great bunch). Damp track all day but decided to stay on the V70A's had a few moment and ended up locking for front end going into the hairpin and nailed the "turn in" cone lol.
When the track dried up I could really push and my old man heard over the Marshall's radio the Cheif Marshall saying "the boy in the green car should be doing the Welsh Championship" went to have a chat with him and now I'm waiting on some information of the sprint events down there.
My mate @ E11evens did a short video on the footage from my GoPro and I'm well impressed with his work!
http://vimeo.com/m/79477193
When the track dried up I could really push and my old man heard over the Marshall's radio the Cheif Marshall saying "the boy in the green car should be doing the Welsh Championship" went to have a chat with him and now I'm waiting on some information of the sprint events down there.
My mate @ E11evens did a short video on the footage from my GoPro and I'm well impressed with his work!
http://vimeo.com/m/79477193
Awesome read on E11evens.
" No point in massive power if you can’t get it down!"
No truer words Dave, glad it's going so well mucka
" No point in massive power if you can’t get it down!"
No truer words Dave, glad it's going so well mucka
Last edited:
Loved the video of your most recent track day Dave! The car seems more stable under breaking these days - rear more planted? As you know, I'm a huge fan so keep us updated 
A lot better under braking so good spotting! It's down to the brake bias I fitted, found it needs a click forward in the wet lol. Recommend the set up!
If anything the rear is very loose but that is how Saxon Motorsport rated the rear springs, turns in so well and the rear just holds on. Was a bit scared of the setup at first because I like a panted rear but it seems my driving style suits the set up very well.
If anything the rear is very loose but that is how Saxon Motorsport rated the rear springs, turns in so well and the rear just holds on. Was a bit scared of the setup at first because I like a panted rear but it seems my driving style suits the set up very well.
Need to update this, haven't been up to much.
Went to Bedford Autodrome on November 30th but run into a problem, passed a static test with 93 dB's but on the drive by within 6 corners I had the noise board. Was only rev'in to 7500rpm due to cold tyres, so back in the pits and the silencer fitted, back out and same 6 corners and the noise board again!! This time with the black flag
On return to the pits had a talking to and was told where the meters were, back out 7k and change gear, did a lap and set the meters off again, now I was driving like a Sunday Driver Grandad! So on the black flag I drop a gear and went flat out (knowing I will be sent home). On return I had the same bloke ask what I'm doing because after being flagged I set two more meters off! So my sticker was removed and off home I went
Now I'm getting ready to fit a Race Technology Dash 2, got a spare set of clocks and took them apart for the main part of the dash, the plan is to get a carbon fibre panel and shape it to the dash and glue it on then mount the Dash 2 to this.
This way I can use the base of the oem clocks to fit the dash 2 perfectly into my dash
Need to get a new dash surround because I won't need the shift light no more. Also I've ordered two 14 pin PCB connectors so I can make up an adapter loom between the Dash 2 & the Ibiza loom, meaning I won't need to cut any wires. Just hopefully my plan comes together with this and works first time lol.
Wouldn't mind a bit of feedback on this part. I need 4 buttons to operator the Dash 2, I was going to mount them on my steering wheel but after sitting in the car and seeing what I can reach I came up with another idea.
The switch to operator the rear heated window (not used anymore) and the air bag warning light (not used) is in the perfect position, along with 2 other blanking plates. My choices now are should I use 4 blanks plates with the buttons mounted to them OR glue a carbon fibre plate to where these switches were and then mount the buttons to the carbon fibre piece.
4 of these with button on each one
OR
Picture a carbon fibre plate glued to this and then the buttons on it.
Personally I like the carbon fibre idea but this means the buttons are angled slightly away from the drivers position but if I used the original blanking plates they would be more angled at the driver.
Went to Bedford Autodrome on November 30th but run into a problem, passed a static test with 93 dB's but on the drive by within 6 corners I had the noise board. Was only rev'in to 7500rpm due to cold tyres, so back in the pits and the silencer fitted, back out and same 6 corners and the noise board again!! This time with the black flag
On return to the pits had a talking to and was told where the meters were, back out 7k and change gear, did a lap and set the meters off again, now I was driving like a Sunday Driver Grandad! So on the black flag I drop a gear and went flat out (knowing I will be sent home). On return I had the same bloke ask what I'm doing because after being flagged I set two more meters off! So my sticker was removed and off home I went
Now I'm getting ready to fit a Race Technology Dash 2, got a spare set of clocks and took them apart for the main part of the dash, the plan is to get a carbon fibre panel and shape it to the dash and glue it on then mount the Dash 2 to this.
This way I can use the base of the oem clocks to fit the dash 2 perfectly into my dash
Need to get a new dash surround because I won't need the shift light no more. Also I've ordered two 14 pin PCB connectors so I can make up an adapter loom between the Dash 2 & the Ibiza loom, meaning I won't need to cut any wires. Just hopefully my plan comes together with this and works first time lol.
Wouldn't mind a bit of feedback on this part. I need 4 buttons to operator the Dash 2, I was going to mount them on my steering wheel but after sitting in the car and seeing what I can reach I came up with another idea.
The switch to operator the rear heated window (not used anymore) and the air bag warning light (not used) is in the perfect position, along with 2 other blanking plates. My choices now are should I use 4 blanks plates with the buttons mounted to them OR glue a carbon fibre plate to where these switches were and then mount the buttons to the carbon fibre piece.
4 of these with button on each one
OR
Picture a carbon fibre plate glued to this and then the buttons on it.
Personally I like the carbon fibre idea but this means the buttons are angled slightly away from the drivers position but if I used the original blanking plates they would be more angled at the driver.
How about a carbon blanking plate, and steering wheel buttons (or a cruise control stalk to cycle through options?)
Right, it's been a while since I updated this. Been real quiet on the forums myself, busy at work or sorting this dash. Had a few problems & waiting on parts or trying to find alternative bits.
Since my last post I've 95% complete fitting the Dash 2. So here's my progess;
I noticed that a terminal connection pins from a PCB board were similar to the pins on the orginal plug for the loom of the clocks, so instead of cutting my wires I decided to solder the Race Technology loom to the pins and it would basically be a plug & play set up.
Using super seal connectors to distribute the 12v & 0v to the dash & can interface loom and then to connect the push switches & senders.
The loom complete
Then I decided on keeping the orginal blanking plates to mount my switches
With the inputs, I wired in a Oil Temp & Oil Pressure sender and then having the water temp & other information from the CAN interface that goes to my ECU. The fuel level sender is then fitted with a 220ohm resistor and tests carried out to show fuel level in litres.
First I set up the fuel levels, to do this I knew the tank was empty so got 20 litres of Shell's finest and filled up a litre at a time while noting the voltage readings.
I later found out I didn't need to use a multi meter and could set up the dash to show the raw data or use the Monitor Lite software to view all inputs.
Then I had a problem with fitting the supplied oil temp & oil pressure, mainly the oil temp because Race Technology only supply the senders in M12x1.5 & 1/8" NPT. They do an M10x1 adaptor for the oil pressure so that was fine but they didn't do anything for the oil temp but the people at Race Technology are really helpful, a lad called Sam knows his stuff and replies back so quick!
He helped me find a alternative M10x1 bosch sender, I had purchased both the senders off Race Technology because I tired to get an adaptor made up at first, Sam told me to heat up water in a kettle and test the voltages, compare the supplied senders with mine to make sure. I also used the missus cooking probe to compare the actual temperture readings
Ordered 2mm thick sheet of carbon fibre from LWS Design and made the back plate to mount the dash to
Then all fitted to the car
Took the car for a test run, revs work perfect and so does all the inputs (wired & ECU information) but the speedo didn't work. After speaking with Sam @ RT he said that I couldn't use my oem sender from the gearbox and I had to use either a VRS controller or use their Hall effect sender and a striker on my wheel.
The wheel sender arrived today so I'm going to make a striker out of aluminium and use one of the bolts from the two piece disc to mount the striker and then since the ABS as been removed I have a spare mounting point on the hub for the wheel speed sender so that will be this weekends job.
I'm hoping to do Combe on April 4th, the speedo isn't too important and then Pembrey on a the 13th, if all goes well I will be traveling further now I have a new tow vehicle.
Since my last post I've 95% complete fitting the Dash 2. So here's my progess;
I noticed that a terminal connection pins from a PCB board were similar to the pins on the orginal plug for the loom of the clocks, so instead of cutting my wires I decided to solder the Race Technology loom to the pins and it would basically be a plug & play set up.
Using super seal connectors to distribute the 12v & 0v to the dash & can interface loom and then to connect the push switches & senders.
The loom complete
Then I decided on keeping the orginal blanking plates to mount my switches
With the inputs, I wired in a Oil Temp & Oil Pressure sender and then having the water temp & other information from the CAN interface that goes to my ECU. The fuel level sender is then fitted with a 220ohm resistor and tests carried out to show fuel level in litres.
First I set up the fuel levels, to do this I knew the tank was empty so got 20 litres of Shell's finest and filled up a litre at a time while noting the voltage readings.
I later found out I didn't need to use a multi meter and could set up the dash to show the raw data or use the Monitor Lite software to view all inputs.
Then I had a problem with fitting the supplied oil temp & oil pressure, mainly the oil temp because Race Technology only supply the senders in M12x1.5 & 1/8" NPT. They do an M10x1 adaptor for the oil pressure so that was fine but they didn't do anything for the oil temp but the people at Race Technology are really helpful, a lad called Sam knows his stuff and replies back so quick!
He helped me find a alternative M10x1 bosch sender, I had purchased both the senders off Race Technology because I tired to get an adaptor made up at first, Sam told me to heat up water in a kettle and test the voltages, compare the supplied senders with mine to make sure. I also used the missus cooking probe to compare the actual temperture readings
Ordered 2mm thick sheet of carbon fibre from LWS Design and made the back plate to mount the dash to
Then all fitted to the car
Took the car for a test run, revs work perfect and so does all the inputs (wired & ECU information) but the speedo didn't work. After speaking with Sam @ RT he said that I couldn't use my oem sender from the gearbox and I had to use either a VRS controller or use their Hall effect sender and a striker on my wheel.
The wheel sender arrived today so I'm going to make a striker out of aluminium and use one of the bolts from the two piece disc to mount the striker and then since the ABS as been removed I have a spare mounting point on the hub for the wheel speed sender so that will be this weekends job.
I'm hoping to do Combe on April 4th, the speedo isn't too important and then Pembrey on a the 13th, if all goes well I will be traveling further now I have a new tow vehicle.
Last edited:
My new tow vehicle! You all know I was undecided on a pick up or a van so I finally bit the bullet and got something, I won't bore you all with the work I've done on it. Will just show the before & after pics, was already fitted with coilovers.
Before (taken from the ad)
After/new bits:
His & her steelies lol
And my VAG Family
The paint work was done by Old School Engineering
Before (taken from the ad)
After/new bits:
His & her steelies lol
And my VAG Family
The paint work was done by Old School Engineering
![[B)]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/shades.gif "Cool [B)]")
iTB Ibiza Cupra 16v Track Toy - 2056cc, Forged Pistons, Steel Rods
Thanks James, my trade is Electrical Control Specialist lol so if I did a **** job at the wiring I wouldn't be happy with myself.
Hoping to get the wheel speed sensor fitted by next week and it's all finished. Will see how good the gear indicator is then, it's uses the wheel speed & gear ratios to calculate what gear you're in. Can't see it being to responsive but with a look.
The T5 is going well at the moment, I am tempted to get it mapped 130 to 170bhp odd but I know the turbos are a common fault. So I am thinking I would be better to wait and then get a 174bhp version turbo, forge intercooler & remap then be looking at 210+bhp.
Van will have more power than the snot now lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks James, my trade is Electrical Control Specialist lol so if I did a **** job at the wiring I wouldn't be happy with myself.
Hoping to get the wheel speed sensor fitted by next week and it's all finished. Will see how good the gear indicator is then, it's uses the wheel speed & gear ratios to calculate what gear you're in. Can't see it being to responsive but with a look.
The T5 is going well at the moment, I am tempted to get it mapped 130 to 170bhp odd but I know the turbos are a common fault. So I am thinking I would be better to wait and then get a 174bhp version turbo, forge intercooler & remap then be looking at 210+bhp.
Van will have more power than the snot now lol
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Handy to be familiar with electrics then... Looks great Dave.
On the T5 mapping front, my daily is a Passat CC with the 2.0 TDI Bluemotion which is 170bhp and it's absolutely brilliant. Sensible driving with the map shouldn't put the tubby in too much danger should it? I can imagine that it'd be nice to have that extra torque to help the towing/overall driving.
On the T5 mapping front, my daily is a Passat CC with the 2.0 TDI Bluemotion which is 170bhp and it's absolutely brilliant. Sensible driving with the map shouldn't put the tubby in too much danger should it? I can imagine that it'd be nice to have that extra torque to help the towing/overall driving.
It's not so much the extra power it will be producing. It's a variable vain turbo and it gets clogged up then it gets stuck in the "high boost" position, usually common in vans that's do short distances.
Which by the looks is what mine has been doing as it's only at 50k, the £500 could go towards the new (bigger) turbo and then a remap when it does go.
Just think it isn't much point in mapping it twice. But I have been known to change my mind
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Which by the looks is what mine has been doing as it's only at 50k, the £500 could go towards the new (bigger) turbo and then a remap when it does go.
Just think it isn't much point in mapping it twice. But I have been known to change my mind
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Right the dash is now complete!
Fitted the wheel speed sensor & made a striker (template) using one of the bolts from the two piece discs to mount the striker.
I know it looks bad cutting up and bending a stainless steel rule, this was a template at first and I was going to use a piece of aluminium I had but it was much thicker than the rule. So I made the striker again using the rule but cut it 10mm wide and rubbed off the numbers lol.
I'm ashamed to say I did it but it works perfect & it won't rust. Plus it cost £1.12 for the rule.... Bargain lol. Forgot to take a photo of the final design, sorry
And the final photo of my new office, very pleased with how it's all turned out
Pembrey is booked for the 12th if I have no problems then I will be doing Brands Hatch on the 1st May
Fitted the wheel speed sensor & made a striker (template) using one of the bolts from the two piece discs to mount the striker.
I know it looks bad cutting up and bending a stainless steel rule, this was a template at first and I was going to use a piece of aluminium I had but it was much thicker than the rule. So I made the striker again using the rule but cut it 10mm wide and rubbed off the numbers lol.
I'm ashamed to say I did it but it works perfect & it won't rust. Plus it cost £1.12 for the rule.... Bargain lol. Forgot to take a photo of the final design, sorry
And the final photo of my new office, very pleased with how it's all turned out
Pembrey is booked for the 12th if I have no problems then I will be doing Brands Hatch on the 1st May
Last edited:
I only get fuel starvation after a lap on the fuel light so the tank is pretty enough empty at that point, I only put 20 litres of fuel in at time.
You could always fit a swirl pot to prevent it?
You could always fit a swirl pot to prevent it?
Last edited:
jasus cant understand whats wrong with mine if yours runs fine. mine starves it that much that it cuts it out. had an idea of fitting something slightly bigger than the pump housing in tank so when it went round right hand corners it would keep enough fuel around the pump till i got out of the corner. either that or change out tank for a proper fuel tank.
Similar threads
- Locked
- Sticky
