Very jealous that looks like real fun, Was that the track you were telling me about the other day.
Nope, but it should be a similar one.
...and the costs are nowhere near what that video quotes, since people bring their own cars.
Very jealous that looks like real fun, Was that the track you were telling me about the other day.
What you need is active engine mounts, so they go stiffer when you need them to. But then it would probably be cheaper to have a second car haha.@omegamv6 just to be clear there are 3 different types of mounts (engine mount, transmission mount, torque mount (or dog bone mount))
For stock and stage 1 the dogbone mount and good tyres make a huge difference (there are tons of threads on here about best ones). Unless you are chasing big power I would not go for engine mounts and or transmission mount as my personal view is these are much more for track work than daily drive cars.
@omegamv6 just to be clear there are 3 different types of mounts (engine mount, transmission mount, torque mount (or dog bone mount))
For stock and stage 1 the dogbone mount and good tyres make a huge difference (there are tons of threads on here about best ones). Unless you are chasing big power I would not go for engine mounts and or transmission mount as my personal view is these are much more for track work than daily drive cars.
I am running 410 bhp/520nm set up.There’s lots to like about my manual FWD 300st, and like I said I’m sure it would handle well on a smooth, dry track - like the original Cupra 280 vs Golf R vid by Autocar.
But for the majority of the time, I’m driving down bumpy, undulating B roads. And it just struggles to put the power down properly. All the way up through third gear, you're constantly having to fight with the wheel when you’re ‘on it’. Admittedly, I often drive in a spirited manner, and the problem would be less obvious at 7/10ths rather than 9/10ths. I don’t dispute that this scrabbling front end might make it more interesting to drive, but for me I’d have more fun if I had more traction and less torque steer.
I’ve come from a Renault Sport Megane and an M135i, both of which were more comfortable when hustled.
I’m going to try a different front tyre - currently on Conti Sport Contact 5, think I’ll try the Michelin Pilot Sport 4s (I’ve used the Pilot Super Sports on previous cars). See if that makes any difference...
Really not looking forward to going from SuperSports to Conti6's on the new car.I am running 410 bhp/520nm set up.
It was tough on contis.
I bought pilot super sports and it is like night and day to be honest.
What this tire does to overal driveability on stage 2 is incredible.
What you need is active engine mounts, so they go stiffer when you need them to. But then it would probably be cheaper to have a second car haha.
Haha no it was just a pipe dream. I think some very expensive sports cars have em.Can you get these, apparently the CTS ones don't vibrate that much? I'll invest if I go Stage 3
Would it be ok for you just to confirm the best dog leg mount to get and part number ? Not so much race spec but best compromise between wheel hop and vibration , thanks again for any help.
Sorry for delay in getting back on this.
Check out this thread https://forums.seatcupra.net/index.php?threads/confused-over-dogbone-mount.445484/ as you can see i personally have the Revo insert https://www.onlyrevo.com/product-de...b-chassis-lower-torque-mount-kit&engineid=194 but i got it as part of the complete mount kit (Engine, Transmission and torque mount) but that's because I need this to keep my power on the road.
From what i have seen I think the most popular was the 034 Motorsport but not been keeping up on whats best as i am very happy with what I have.
Tyres are also very important and I would also point out these mods are applied to Golfs and Audi's so its not just a Seat Issue.
I agree. The thing I noticed most going from a MK2 R to a 280 was the awful axle tramp (especially on the original Bridgestones) that afflicted that car. Whereas the MK2 would just spin wheel a tad then grip & go, the MK3 bangs away like the engine is about to fall out, until you cut the power.Perhaps somewhat controversially, I think I’m stock form the Mk3 struggles for grip much more than the Mk2 Cupra. Even taking into account a stage 1 Mk2 which would be similar power. Admittedly an insert does fix it, I don’t understand why they didn’t have something similar from the factory!
I agree. The thing I noticed most going from a MK2 R to a 280 was the awful axle tramp (especially on the original Bridgestones) that afflicted that car. Whereas the MK2 would just spin wheel a tad then grip & go, the MK3 bangs away like the engine is about to fall out, until you cut the power.
Not 100% but with tyres it’s 99% there. Problem is you can’t complete my disable the traction control.And does a dogbone mount stop this ?
Slow speed corners hinder the Cupra Vs the R, which shows why the track times are so varied and why the Cupra is so much quicker on the Ring. But the power different between R 310/300 and Cupra 300/290This is not a bad link and shows how close it is.
http://fastestlaps.com/comparisons/3uagoonlv8fl