Front brake disc Torque Wrench settings.

[Brownster]

Hi,

I'm just abouts to change my front brake pads and discs and wondered what the Torque wrench settings need to be for the bolts. Most of the guides just say "tight" which un-nerves me a little as this is the first time i've done anything like this

Any ideas?

Thanks

Ste

 

[DannyC87]

the discs themselves are held on by the wheel bolts so you just need to know the torque setting for them. the calipers are held on by 2 bolts to the rear of the caliper; which as said need to be tight - i have not found a specific torque for them, but when i did mine, i used a breaker bar and did them as tight as i could get them! sorry can't be more help!

 

[Jimski]

As above really dude, the locating screws on the front discs may cause u problems mine snapped off :S, had to drill out and retap.

Other than that u cant go wrong, just do it all really tight!!!



Jimski

 

[LEE69]

28 Nm to bolt the brake calliper to the brake backing plate.

 

[Brownster]

Cool thanks, should drilling be required - what sorta size bit do i need? do i drill through the entire screw, presumably i dont go as far as the thread otherwise the hub is screwed?

Cheers

Ste

 

[LEE69]

Just drill the head off, the disk will be released and the remaining thread should unscrew with mole grips.

 

[NickT]

28 Nm to bolt the brake calliper to the brake backing plate.

Yer that's the figure for the caliper guide pins (7mm allen key), according to the MkiV Golf/Bora Haynes the caliper guide pins are 28-30Nm, you don't need a breaker bar to do these up.
The caliper mounting bracket bolts (17mm Hex head bolts) are 125Nm, these you need the breaker bar/large torque wrench for. These are originally fitted with threadlock and strictly speaking should be replaced with new threadlocked bolts (SEAT dealer part only), however I didn't, just did them up fewking tight.
This thread has a lot of good stuff in it, especially the link in post #6.

http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=142803&highlight=Brake+pads+guide

Only other thing I would mention Brownster is that the above is applicable to the Cupra with FN3 calipers and I notice your profile says you drive an LCR which has a different (Brembo) setup so their may be some differences?

Oh yeah roadwheel bolts are 120Nm.

 

[Brownster]

Yeah I drive the LCR so there may be some differences, but I doubt they will be drastically different so i'll probbably use those figures and some in theat thread as a guide.

Finally, If/When drilling the locating screw off, what size screw do i need to get to replace the one that will be ruined by drilling, will this come with the Discs or should i nip somewhere to get one?

Ste

 

[NickT]

M6 x 15mm long Countersunk screw, doesn't come with the discs, might be able to get one from Halfrauds or a local Motor Factor, failing that SEAT part number is N10112603 (according to Vagcat.com).

 

[JamesL]

for the price may as well pick up the screws just in case - good spares anyway.

Last time I did a set of brakes the disc retaining screw snapped, I had to hammer a flat head screwdriver bit into it and turn it with mole grips after that

 

[Muttley]

Use an impact screwdriver to get the disk retaining screw out. This is exactly the sort of problem they are good at.

There is no almighty need for that screw other than ease of assembly. The brake disks are held to the wheels by the wheel bolts.

The official process calls for the guide pin bolts to be replaced as they are pre-coated with threadlock. However, if you have a tube of loctite, you can re-use the old bolts by cleaning them up and recoating with new threadlock. I wouldn't overtorque them, leads to problems the next time you need to undo them and they still may work loose.

 

[DPJ]

28 Nm to bolt the brake calliper to the brake backing plate.

That seems very low..........

(Sorry I don't know the Cupra R torque figures, only LC.)

 

[LEE69]

got it of elsawin.

 

[DPJ]

got it of elsawin.

See post #7. 125NM is more like it....

 

[LEE69]

Just double checked and yeah the caliper pin is 28 nm

 

[LEE69]

There is no other figure there only the 28nm nothing about other bolts either.

Delete my posts mate if you like, to save any bother that might arise

 

[DPJ]

That could have been dangerous..

With the disc screw, I just drill through and then run an M6 tap through the hole in the hub.

 

[Brownster]

Cool cheers fellas,

I'm guessing I can just grab a few of those from B&Q, better to be prepared than stuck at home with no wheels on the car without the right tools!!

Ste

 

[NickT]

...The official process calls for the guide pin bolts to be replaced as they are pre-coated with threadlock. However, if you have a tube of loctite, you can re-use the old bolts by cleaning them up and recoating with new threadlock. I wouldn't overtorque them, leads to problems the next time you need to undo them and they still may work loose.

Don't you mean the caliper mounting bracket bolts?

 

[Muttley]

NickT, you're mostly right: I was thinking of the Girling calipers I had on my old Ibiza and on previous Golfs, which are similar in attachment to the rears on Leons and Toledos, where the attachment bolts screw into the guide pins. In these cases it is those attachment bolts that can be loctited.

Interestingly, reading my Golf IV manual (the nearest Haynes reference for the Leon/Toledo) I find it makes no mention of the need to replace the front mounting bolts, only the rears. So perhaps the front attachment is designed to stay done up without needing loctite after all.