Engine Goes In To Limp Mode?

[AshFR]

Hi all. Just been speaking with my brother who im buying the leon tdi fr 150 off and he said if you over rev or even when overtaking and take the revs up a fair bit, it sometimes goes to limp mode (big power loss) and you have to stop the engine and restart it again to get it out of limp mode? Anyone have any idea why its like this or is it normal? thanks.

 

[alien1974]

usually a problem with the variable vane on the turbo if you search on here for limp mode you will see

 

[AshFR]

usually a problem with the variable vane on the turbo if you search on here for limp mode you will see

Oh rite. Sounds like an expensive fix then? Would it be a new turbo job orrrr?

 

[alien1974]

1. replace the turbo
2. try cleaning it with innotec cleaning kit
3. a good thrashing and using a cleaner such as millers eco additive

 

[AshFR]

usually a problem with the variable vane on the turbo if you search on here for limp mode you will see

1. replace the turbo
2. try cleaning it with innotec cleaning kit
3. a good thrashing and using a cleaner such as millers eco additive

Does the turbo require removing to use innotek cleaning kit?

Im sure it will get a good thrashing when i get it lol. I will bang some millers eco in it aswell then and give that ago first. Maybe the problem is my brother only uses the car to drive to and from work which is about 2-3 miles either way and he doesnt thrash it at all tbh. Hope its not the turbo nackered. If it is, hybrid turbo will be going on

 

[alien1974]

short journeys will coke up the variable vane mechanism on the turbo, so a good thrash will help to stop this no you dont have to remove the turbo but it is easier, my remap helped to stop my limp mode as the higher boost cleaned out the turbo i think, plus i always use millers.

 

[AshFR]

Ok thanks guys. Cant wait to get my hands on it. Think one of the first things is a turbo back milltek exhaust, followed by induction kit and remap

Is this the millers stuff you say: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260842396600

Also, while im here, would it be ok to put some in my 306 hdi as i know some diesel additives dont agree with the hdi engine?

Also i like the look of that innotec cleaning kit. Might give that ago after the millers if it still has the same problem. So how does it help to have the turbo removed? TBH, i dont fancy removing the turbo at all as i would guess its a pig of a job. Has anyone had any luck using the innotec kit with turbo still on the car? Oh and how often does it need to be cleaned? Not very i hope at that price lol.

Thanks.

 

[towcester vag]

you dont need to remove turbo
and i use mr muscle oven cleaner to do job
£3 instead of £45
remove downpipe and squirt into turbo (use a little pipe to get in behind impellor)
leave for 20 minutes
move actuator rod untill you get full sweep open to close
squirt in somemore and leave for another 20 mins
recheck actuator for movement
if ok bolt up downpipe and start up and run car

 

[AshFR]

you dont need to remove turbo
and i use mr muscle oven cleaner to do job
£3 instead of £45
remove downpipe and squirt into turbo (use a little pipe to get in behind impellor)
leave for 20 minutes
move actuator rod untill you get full sweep open to close
squirt in somemore and leave for another 20 mins
recheck actuator for movement
if ok bolt up downpipe and start up and run car

Oh rite. Ummmmm..... tempting. TBH i would prefer to use some professional stuff to make sure and maybe take mr muscle in to action every now and then after it

 

[towcester vag]

ive found that mr muscle seems to be more consistent
ive done loads with both products and innotec is ok but for the cost doesnt seem to work as well as the oven cleaner
i checked the ingredients of both and are similar but its only carbon in your oven so thats why i choose it
i have only had one failure to clean but the turbo was slightly noisy anyway
save your money mate

 

[AshFR]

ive found that mr muscle seems to be more consistent
ive done loads with both products and innotec is ok but for the cost doesnt seem to work as well as the oven cleaner
i checked the ingredients of both and are similar but its only carbon in your oven so thats why i choose it
i have only had one failure to clean but the turbo was slightly noisy anyway
save your money mate

Fair enough. How do you use the oven cleaner though? Just take exhaust off and squirt it up in there or do you need to remove turbo? If so, is it a hard job to remove it or fairly straight forward?

 

[towcester vag]

read post 6th feb
just drop downpipe from turbo

 

[AshFR]

read post 6th feb
just drop downpipe from turbo

Oh i see. Sorry i seamed to miss that. Brilliant. I will be sure to do this as soon as.

So theres no need to blank off the turbo to keep mr muscle in there? Just squirt and leave for a bit. Also how much do you use for the full clean? Half and can for 20mins then half a can again orrrrr? Thanks.

 

[towcester vag]

you can get 3 cleans out of 1 can
just squirt into turbo till it fills
twice should do it
just make sure actuator lever moves to fully open/fully closed freely

 

[AshFR]

Just got it to go into limp mode. Put my foot down in 3rd gear, hit 4k rpm and then no power. Stopped engine and started it again, perfect. So i think i may get the innotec cleaning kit then use mr muscle every now and then to make sure turbo is clean.

Oh and yesterday i started my car up and i had the EML on so i plugged my elm327 reader in and it come up with P07*** and it said Powertrain. So i cleared the code and the light went off and hasnt come on since and done about 30miles. Anyone know what could of caused this? I was filling up my sprayer water before i spilt a bit of water over on the belts. Im just wonder if a bit of water got in to an electrical connection and threw up the code. Ummmmm.

Just ordered some millers diesel power eco max to bang in the fuel tank. Is it ok to add double the mixture to a tank and will it help clean it a bit better or just do what the bottle says? Cheers.

 

[DarrenJ]

Just got it to go into limp mode. Put my foot down in 3rd gear, hit 4k rpm and then no power. Stopped engine and started it again, perfect. So i think i may get the innotec cleaning kit then use mr muscle every now and then to make sure turbo is clean.

Oh and yesterday i started my car up and i had the EML on so i plugged my elm327 reader in and it come up with P07*** and it said Powertrain. So i cleared the code and the light went off and hasnt come on since and done about 30miles. Anyone know what could of caused this? I was filling up my sprayer water before i spilt a bit of water over on the belts. Im just wonder if a bit of water got in to an electrical connection and threw up the code. Ummmmm.

Just ordered some millers diesel power eco max to bang in the fuel tank. Is it ok to add double the mixture to a tank and will it help clean it a bit better or just do what the bottle says? Cheers.

It takes 50 miles before the fault light comes back on again usually. Mine went into limp mode once when egr valve had blocked up inlet mani and was stuck open all the time.

I haven't heard much bother with the pd150 turbo's for getting blocked up, unless you never leave the urban area!

But if it was the egr at fault im sure that when you read the fault code it would be 'egr excessive flow', so it might not be that, but at 63,000 miles mine was in a very bad state as you can see last post in my reader's ride.

Did your brother drive her on or was it all urban driving?

 

[AshFR]

It takes 50 miles before the fault light comes back on again usually. Mine went into limp mode once when egr valve had blocked up inlet mani and was stuck open all the time.

I haven't heard much bother with the pd150 turbo's for getting blocked up, unless you never leave the urban area!

But if it was the egr at fault im sure that when you read the fault code it would be 'egr excessive flow', so it might not be that, but at 63,000 miles mine was in a very bad state as you can see last post in my reader's ride.

Did your brother drive her on or was it all urban driving?

Fair enough. He only drove it to and from work about 2-3 miles each way for the past 4ish years and went about 30 miles every now and then. He never hardly thrashed it thats why i suspect the turbo is clogged. Also if i rev the car flat out in neutral, it goes to 5k, which is the limited i guess then i let my foot off throttle and it takes ~1second to drop the revs back down again. Is this normal or is something not right there?

Also im guessing the fault code for powertrain isnt anything to do with the limp mode as when it went to limp mode the EML didnt come on or anything, just lose power. It was when i went to start it yesterday the EML and powertrain code was on.

 

[Chocks]

ive found that mr muscle seems to be more consistent
ive done loads with both products and innotec is ok but for the cost doesnt seem to work as well as the oven cleaner
i checked the ingredients of both and are similar but its only carbon in your oven so thats why i choose it
i have only had one failure to clean but the turbo was slightly noisy anyway
save your money mate

towcester vag - Did you access the downpipe from underneath the car or from the top? I can't see much access space to undo the bolts from the top, or do I need to remove something first? (I assume I am looking at the right thing of course! )

Appreciate your help.

 

[towcester vag]

ther are 2 ways to do the clean
1 remove downpipe and put pipe in as far as it will go through the turbo veins
2 remove the egr pipe from inlet manifold and exhaust manifold
push tube into exhaust manifold towards the back ie towards bulkhead and fill
both ways work it depends if you have a egr cooler to which way is easiest

 

[Chocks]

Thanks for the reply.

I don't think the 110Tdi ASV has a EGR cooler, but I'd do whichever is easiest.

But, as I said, I can't see how people can get access from the top (ie without getting underneath the car) to perform either Option1 or Option2.

Am I mistaken? Note that I am a newbie, so this is very possible