DTUK tuning box
- Thread starter DeanC
- Start date
Nothing will flag, even if it was connected. The only way to tell a box has been in place is to compare the fueling and boost tables with that of a stock car. Boxes aren't completely undetectable but very few technicians would have the knowledge or inclination to go sniffing.
Thanks that's good to know, i'll do the same. How you finding the box? I cant decide on a second hand DTUk or just get a new JB1
Only because I've read better things about the JB1 especially on the golf R forum, so if I was gonna spend full price id get that. Plus hardly ever see any second-hand JB1 boxes on ebay, DTUK boxes there have been quite a few.
I have 1.6 TDI 105hp CAYC 2013 engine, I see there's a box for the revised engine which is now 116hp but the torque remains the same.
What I wanted to do is buy the box with the map for the 116hp so I can get more hp from it instead of buying the one for the 105's version.
But I'm not sure if that would be good. Don't know what has been changed to the engine, maybe they just increased the power but the components are the same.
mine too, although I just removed the box, (put the plug in) and drove home in glow plug light on limp mode, then left it overnight and reconnected the box and its all cleared and back as it was before, very odd
Hi Boys and girls just thought I would make a quick comment mine came up with coil light the other day running on p2+2 didn't show up of late very strange turned it to p3 0 runs well and smooth seems it can be very hit and miss when its good its very good seems only for a short wile I have also had mine on a dyno car was 160bhp standard which I was expecting 148bhp/150ps P2+2 gave best results as we tried all settings best result was 175 a good dollop of extra torque more than standard lower down and midrange pulls hard but later part of rev range don't feel that different if I was running standard and no box connected but then we are getting into 3 figure on speed overall a very good box but a little disappointed still about the 200bhp mark and torque 440nm? I am aware all cars are different and all dyno figures are different
cheers ghb
cheers ghb
Deleted member 11430
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this is advice that were now sending out with new boxes, as a lot of people assume that the boxes will run on +3 and some others think that as you change from map 1 to 2 to 3 the power increases..
this should help and hopefully save some of you from having issues
this should help and hopefully save some of you from having issues
The sticker is on the module as 99% of men don't read instructions and simply turn the box onto maximum and then wonder why they have seen an engine light. This usually results in us being slated on social media hence why we've added the stickers asking customers to contact us before making any adjustments to the system
We can then explain the correct procedure and if you then decide to ignore our advice and subsequently see an engine light or experience issues, it's gives us a little recourse.
No disrespect to yourself but I'm a bloke and I never read anything but we're hoping that customers will see the stickers and contact us, so thank you
The module itself needs power, so adjustments must be made with the ignition in the first position or with the engine running.
The box will flash the LED Lights 99% of the time - this means the box is in lock down mode and can’t be adjusted but the flashing lights indicate the Program and fine adjustment that has been selected. Once the box is unlocked by holding the plus and minus buttons down the LED lights will then go solid, this means you can adjust the system.
After several seconds of inactivity on the keypad the system will lock automatically. If in doubt at any time please read the instructions provided with the kit or get in touch.
There are 3 files on the box and 99% of the time the end result is the same overall power, the difference is how the power is delivered. Our advice is to try all 3 programmes/files/maps on zero first and you should then feel subtle differences between the 3 files.
Using the + button adds a touch more power, so from zero we would then suggest moving to +1 and then again comparing the differences.
Why haven't we mentioned +2 and +3, most files are optimised on the zero setting, but due to the differences found in sensor tolerances some cars respond better on +1. Anything higher may result in an engine management light, but there again may not. It is purely down to sensor tolerances, and in some cases fuel quality and ambient air temps can effect things.
Whatever you do please ignore anything you may of read online regarding the "best setting", intact even if you have 2 identical cars in the household please treat each vehicle as a unique item and don't simply assume that the setting you're using in one car, is the best for the other
All we want is for customers to be able to enjoy our product, but to also realise that their car is as unique as them, and in essence some trial and error is required to set up the system to best suit your car, and more importantly your driving style.
If you do see an engine light, don't worry this is your engine that you're being "greedy" and if the system is turned down the light will either go out straight away, or after a certain number of full ecu power downs.
We're here to help virtually 24/7 so if you have any problems or further questions please don't hesitate to contact us, thats what we’re here for
Thanks for emailing and hope you understand why it's a small yet important part of getting the best from your purchase
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