Dashboard like a Christmas tree help!!!

[kaluharu]

This is the worst kind of fault to have on a car :0(

My approach would be to work through it logically. What is t he history? What has happened to the car in the past that might have resulted in damaged wiring, plugs or components? Aftermarket accessories fitted? Dashcam, lights, cheapo gizmos? Impact damage? Water damage? Is the new battery the correct one for the car? Was it correctly coded to the car?

The odds are that some event in the past has caused this fault. It could be a random chafed cable but it's not very likely. Where did you get the new battery?

Ok so I've had the car since September last year, I'm the second owner from new. It's had its moments, in November last year I lost all power that was a oil pressure sensor, new battery fitted in February (unsure how to know if this was coded or not but it comes up with multiple warnings afterwards and after turning the steering wheel a few times and driving it the lights went out) most long journeys it pings to say low tyre pressure which normally it isn't the cases. It's been well looked after serviced etc. Dash cam was fitted last September and other than that nothing has been touched in the car.

There's no fixed pattern to the car doing this, sometimes it's cold, sometimes after a couple of short journeys, sometimes after a longer journey so I can't pinpoint a specific time it's doing it.

 

[Mr Pig]

The tyre pressure warnings are normal. It isn't a very good system and false warnings are common.

Nothing else is! Who fitted the battery? Unless it was a dealer or a VAG specialist it's pretty likely they just swapped it and did not code the new battery to the car. This could easily be the cause of at least some of your problems.

Modern, stop-start cars have a system for monitoring the battery and altering how the battery is used and charged as the battery gets older and its behavior changes. When you fit a new battery, you have to tell the car not only that the battery is new but what type of battery it is and what capacity. If you don't, the car won't be able to manage the battery properly. It's one of those things that are expensive but not doing it right can cost you more in the long run. I wouldn't even bother looking at anything else until the battery is sorted out.

 

[cairus]

I don't know what cars you drive, but my Seat Leon, 2 of them, have absolutely no errors in the memory.

Regarding battery learning, yes, VW specifies it that way, but if the same type is installed with the same performance, you don't necessarily have to tell the system that a new battery is installed. The system just takes much longer to learn that on its own. Even a lead battery works for a very long time in a start-stop vehicle

 

[Mr Pig]

I don't know what cars you drive, but my Seat Leon, 2 of them, have absolutely no errors in the memory.

Pretty much always see something. Usually two or three. For the dash to be lit up and zero codes? Seems unlikely.

Yes, my understanding is that if you fit a new battery of exactly the same type without coding the car will eventually realize and adapt accordingly. If it's not the right type of battery? I wouldn't bet on it.

 

[cairus]

As a normal user you will never change the type normaly, so EFB to AGM etc. You will also never change from 58Ah to 90 or more. I can only speak from my experience of tests I have carried out

When you Change from 58Ah to 60Ah, it is no Problem. But by more Then 10Ah it is better to code the New Batterie

 

[ViperSlider]

As stated, the charge profile won't be correct as the system adapts to aged batteries and factors in the reduced capabilities of that battery and if the car isn't told it's had a new battery then the charge profile will be incorrect potentially causing longevity issues and/or voltage instability.

Battery issues cause sooooo many electrical gremlins... Even poor quality batteries such as Lion brand

 

[Mr Pig]

As a normal user you will rarely change the type, so EFB to AGM etc.

But the point is that we don't know what was done.

 

[cairus]

As stated, the charge profile won't be correct as the system adapts to aged batteries and factors in the reduced capabilities of that battery and if the car isn't told it's had a new battery then the charge profile will be incorrect potentially causing longevity issues and/or voltage instability.

Battery issues cause sooooo many electrical gremlins... Even poor quality batteries such as Lion brand

I have been driving with incorrect values for 1 year, deliberately, the vehicle drives without failure

 

[Mr Pig]

I have been driving with incorrect values for 1 year, deliberately, the vehicle drives without failure

Congratulations.

 

[cairus]

.I also switched off the recuperation once as a test to keep the battery at 100%. It works, but then start/stop always kicks in and no trick could deactivate it. You just have to bear in mind that I test a lot of things and have paid enough "tuition fees" too. But this way you understand certain things better. I'm sharing my experiences here, nothing more.

 

[Mr Pig]

.I also switched off the recuperation once as a test to keep the battery at 100%. It works, but then start/stop always kicks in and no trick could deactivate it.

What is recuperation?

 

[mty12345]

I don't know what cars you drive, but my Seat Leon, 2 of them, have absolutely no errors in the memory.

Yeah but i'm guessing you don't have numerous faults and lights displayed on your dashboard?

As others have said, i fail to understand how the OP can have all those lights on the dash cluster, yet the car doesn't have any fault codes? Make zero sense unless like someone else said, the garage is just scanning the Engine module and nothing else.

IMO the car needs to be sacnned with VCDS or something else that can scan ALL modules.

 

[cairus]

The speedometer could also simply be defect. I've experienced that before.

 

[kaluharu]

Driving today started fine. Car was going ok at 50mph, suddenly all the warning lights come on, engine management light and car loss all power (not limp no power at all) I was petrified of being rear ended so got out of the car and rang for the police as I was on a bend on a major A road. Police turned up car had the engine management light on when he turned it over, waited for recovery he come out plugged it in nothing at all on the computer. Car started and drove fine afterwards.
It's going back to the garage and he's going to start investigating the wiring.

 

[Mr Pig]

Scary stuff! :0.

 

[mty12345]

Driving today started fine. Car was going ok at 50mph, suddenly all the warning lights come on, engine management light and car loss all power (not limp no power at all) I was petrified of being rear ended so got out of the car and rang for the police as I was on a bend on a major A road. Police turned up car had the engine management light on when he turned it over, waited for recovery he come out plugged it in nothing at all on the computer. Car started and drove fine afterwards.
It's going back to the garage and he's going to start investigating the wiring.

This is one of the weirdest faults i've ever heard of. How that can fail to set fault codes blows my mind! The only real way i could see those things happening is if your ECU cut out/lost communication, but that should set a fault code in every other module in the car.

Sorry to hear it happened in such a dodgy place. Be very interested to see what the fault is. I would definitely start at the ECU power and grounds, check insde the plug for corrosion, also engine block grounds and maybe the crank sensor too.

 

[ViperSlider]

At this point I'd be looking to have my ECU flashed with OEM software to ensure no one has "edited" the ECU software to hide recurring faults and their codes. Understanding that you've had the car for a year but could be the issue(s) has progressively gotten worse.

Your car will need extended investigation to get the fault to trigger and then start to work out the cause. At this stage, it could be anything so any suggestions from anyone would be purely guesswork.

 

[kaluharu]

Ok so the plot thickens.

I've had an auto electrician out tonight, there is multiple faults on the system but he's stumped as there isn't a clear thing causing them.

He did notice that there's no voltage to the hydraulic pump, when he tried to test it on his little computer there was multiple lights on the dash. He thinks it could be ABS related, he's gone away to do some research.

Not sure if this is a common thing or not

 

[johnnygal]

Ok so the plot thickens.

I've had an auto electrician out tonight, there is multiple faults on the system but he's stumped as there isn't a clear thing causing them.

He did notice that there's no voltage to the hydraulic pump, when he tried to test it on his little computer there was multiple lights on the dash. He thinks it could be ABS related, he's gone away to do some research.

Not sure if this is a common thing or not

I really wish you luck with this, it's so frustrating I know. It also sounds like none of the previous garages actually read the onboard ECUs to get the fault codes, just did a basic engine ECU OBD read.

 

[ViperSlider]

when he tried to test it on his little computer there was multiple lights on the dash. He thinks it could be ABS related

When doing output tests via the ABS module, the ABS related lights can flash up on the dash whilst the diag machine is logged into the module, that is normal.

Similar for the steering if that is being tested, the warning lights can flash up during output tests.

When you say hydraulic pump, do you mean the power steering, ABS or diff? Only asking as some people can confuse the wording.

At least you now have some guidance with grabbing the fault codes with a seemingly decent diag machine.

Do you not have any VW Group specialists in your area?