Chris_a_73's Ibiza Reader's Ride!
- Thread starter Chris_a_73
- Start date
Made this post in the detailing section, but thought I'd post it here as well to gain a bigger audience to answer my questions!
Hey guys,
As some of you know I keep my car looking nice and shiny, however am going to do a full detail (and I'm talking several days) in the next month or so. The aim is to remove swirls (not that I have many), holograms (very slight, and perhaps some are from excess wax?) and creating a deep gloss.
I've currently got this shopping list;
3M 3434 masking tape
DAS-6 Pro (LC and Menz bundle from CYC)
Sonus Perfect Paint Kit (Clay, lube, pre-polish/wax cleaner)
Chemical Guys Extreme Oil Dressing (tyres, trim etc)
Arch brush
I already own plenty of microfibres, bodywork shampoo, snowfoam, sheep skin wash mitts etc. The wax I use is AutoGlym HD but looking to get something with more shine (FinishKare 1000p?). I currently only own AG SRP polish, hence going for the Menz bundle from CYC.
The main question is, what else do I need? Anything like IPA for between layers etc? Could I use a buffing pad to remove wax layers, for max gloss? Any ideas which kind?
Here's current game plan:
Exterior:
Soak car / Snow foam / rinse / snow foam / rinse then shampoo with mitt
Autobrite 'Brite gel' on alloys, agitate with brush
Scrub arches with brush
APC on trim/badges/grilles with brush, rinse.
APC door shuts.
Clay with detailer, maybe wash once more? Then dry using leaf blower (LOL)/ super absorbant drying towel..
Remove alloys, clean arches with APC, then plastic dressing.
Seal alloys with CG alloy sealant.
Mask off all areas not polishing with detailer blue tape (3M 3434)
Polish with Menzerna Intensive Polish with Lake County Polishing pad
Wipe down with IPA.
Polish with Menzerna Final Finish with Lake County Finish pad.
Apply tyre dressing and trim dressing
Wipe down with IPA.
Do I really need to wash again?
Finally wax using FinishKare 1000p / AG HD / Colli 91, apply by hand and buff off with buffing pad (?)
Interior:
Vacuum all interior and mats (could shampoo and wet vac?)
Use brush attachment for all areas with need agitation.
How can I go about remove crap from the sides of the seats, along the rails?
APC on all surfaces
Chemical guys air freshener
Am also considering trying to polish my windscreen. People who follow my thread know that I had some pleb cover my windscreen in glue, which caused scratching. Can I try to polish with Cerium Oxide powder, or do I need something else? And what sort of pad shall I use with this?
Anything else I forgot, please add!
Cheers!
Hey guys,
As some of you know I keep my car looking nice and shiny, however am going to do a full detail (and I'm talking several days) in the next month or so. The aim is to remove swirls (not that I have many), holograms (very slight, and perhaps some are from excess wax?) and creating a deep gloss.
I've currently got this shopping list;
3M 3434 masking tape
DAS-6 Pro (LC and Menz bundle from CYC)
Sonus Perfect Paint Kit (Clay, lube, pre-polish/wax cleaner)
Chemical Guys Extreme Oil Dressing (tyres, trim etc)
Arch brush
I already own plenty of microfibres, bodywork shampoo, snowfoam, sheep skin wash mitts etc. The wax I use is AutoGlym HD but looking to get something with more shine (FinishKare 1000p?). I currently only own AG SRP polish, hence going for the Menz bundle from CYC.
The main question is, what else do I need? Anything like IPA for between layers etc? Could I use a buffing pad to remove wax layers, for max gloss? Any ideas which kind?
Here's current game plan:
Exterior:
Soak car / Snow foam / rinse / snow foam / rinse then shampoo with mitt
Autobrite 'Brite gel' on alloys, agitate with brush
Scrub arches with brush
APC on trim/badges/grilles with brush, rinse.
APC door shuts.
Clay with detailer, maybe wash once more? Then dry using leaf blower (LOL)/ super absorbant drying towel..
Remove alloys, clean arches with APC, then plastic dressing.
Seal alloys with CG alloy sealant.
Mask off all areas not polishing with detailer blue tape (3M 3434)
Polish with Menzerna Intensive Polish with Lake County Polishing pad
Wipe down with IPA.
Polish with Menzerna Final Finish with Lake County Finish pad.
Apply tyre dressing and trim dressing
Wipe down with IPA.
Do I really need to wash again?
Finally wax using FinishKare 1000p / AG HD / Colli 91, apply by hand and buff off with buffing pad (?)
Interior:
Vacuum all interior and mats (could shampoo and wet vac?)
Use brush attachment for all areas with need agitation.
How can I go about remove crap from the sides of the seats, along the rails?
APC on all surfaces
Chemical guys air freshener
Am also considering trying to polish my windscreen. People who follow my thread know that I had some pleb cover my windscreen in glue, which caused scratching. Can I try to polish with Cerium Oxide powder, or do I need something else? And what sort of pad shall I use with this?
Anything else I forgot, please add!
Cheers!
Edited:
Washing Stage:
Soak car
Autobrite 'Brite gel' on alloys, agitate with brush
Remove alloys, clean arches with APC, then plastic dressing.
Scrub arches with brush
Rinse
Snow foam
APC on trim/badges/grilles with brush, rinse.
APC door shuts.
Rinse then shampoo with mitt
Rinse
Clay with detailer
Wash again
Dry using super absorbant drying towel
(2 hours?)
Correction stage:
Mask off all areas not polishing with detailer blue tape (3M 3434)
Test on small area, using the lightest cut polish and pad, see what suits your car best (don't want to use a heavy cut and burn your paint)
Polish away, small section at a time, buff off with a micro fibre cloth.
Wash again to remove all remains of polish.
(anything up to 6-8 hours!)
Protection stage:
Use some kind of glaze, such as lime prime/black hole, apply with DA or hand.
Finally wax using FinishKare 1000p / AG HD / Colli 91, apply by hand, allow to cure for 30 mins and buff off with microfibre. Apply another coat (or 2)
Seal alloys with CG alloy sealant.
Apply tyre dressing and trim dressing
(2 hours)
Then scratch your balls and admire your hard work.
Give her a wash every week and coat with dodo juice red mist to renew the wax, also gives awesome beading. But don't use straight after applying wax.
May have missed a few things but im dosed up on energy drinks and sleep deprived, gimme a shout if you need any more help
Washing Stage:
Soak car
Autobrite 'Brite gel' on alloys, agitate with brush
Remove alloys, clean arches with APC, then plastic dressing.
Scrub arches with brush
Rinse
Snow foam
APC on trim/badges/grilles with brush, rinse.
APC door shuts.
Rinse then shampoo with mitt
Rinse
Clay with detailer
Wash again
Dry using super absorbant drying towel
(2 hours?)
Correction stage:
Mask off all areas not polishing with detailer blue tape (3M 3434)
Test on small area, using the lightest cut polish and pad, see what suits your car best (don't want to use a heavy cut and burn your paint)
Polish away, small section at a time, buff off with a micro fibre cloth.
Wash again to remove all remains of polish.
(anything up to 6-8 hours!)
Protection stage:
Use some kind of glaze, such as lime prime/black hole, apply with DA or hand.
Finally wax using FinishKare 1000p / AG HD / Colli 91, apply by hand, allow to cure for 30 mins and buff off with microfibre. Apply another coat (or 2)
Seal alloys with CG alloy sealant.
Apply tyre dressing and trim dressing
(2 hours)
Then scratch your balls and admire your hard work.
Give her a wash every week and coat with dodo juice red mist to renew the wax, also gives awesome beading. But don't use straight after applying wax.
May have missed a few things but im dosed up on energy drinks and sleep deprived, gimme a shout if you need any more help
Where are the jacking points? My jack has a bit that fits into the 'rail' on the sill, have'nt seen any jacking points
I looked in the manual, there is a diagram in there i think its in the changing the wheel section.
Anyway, that part of the sill is harder than the rest, plus, some ****** has bent the rail under my car on the jacking points! Previous owners !
I know on some cars, not sure about the ibiza(and i cant confirm due to the above) but they have little indents on the rail where the jacking point is?
Chris, nice list, don't forget to take LOTS of pictures
I would take the wheels off and clean them rather on the car as your taking them off anyway for cleaning under the arches. Also, i would'nt use a leaf blower to dry the car unless it's never been used in the garden to suck up/collect leaves or has been throughly cleaned otherwise you'll be looking at removing alot more defects than you'd bargained for!
Bought a whole lifting set the other day. Trolley jack, wheel chocks, axle stands etc
Is there a specific point on the chassis I should use, with a trolley jack?
Is there a specific point on the chassis I should use, with a trolley jack?
No worries dude.
You can jack the car up at the normal jacking points as its reinforced, I have been doing for a while. Just make sure you use axle stands or stick a wheel under the car
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
You can jack the car up at the normal jacking points as its reinforced, I have been doing for a while. Just make sure you use axle stands or stick a wheel under the car
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
Will I need to 'clense' the paintwork and remove all previous waxes/fillers before polishing? Or am I only using a clenser/glaze before waxing and clay before polishing?
If i am wanting to start from a fresh layer of wax i usually just wash the car with fairy liquid!
As for cleaning inbetween the seats and the door sill, just take the seats out. Make sure you disconnect the battery first though as when you unplug the side airbags it will leave the airbag light on on the dash otherwise. They are removed by a M10 splice, one at each corner.
As for cleaning inbetween the seats and the door sill, just take the seats out. Make sure you disconnect the battery first though as when you unplug the side airbags it will leave the airbag light on on the dash otherwise. They are removed by a M10 splice, one at each corner.
The clay bar will pretty much remove all waxes on the paint work.
Also make sure you use the 2 bucket method, and what washing mitt are you using?
A good wash, clay bar, making sure its well lubricated. SRP by hand then coat in HD wax
Enough to fill the swirls...
3-4 should be enough?
Arun, the Sonus 'extra fine clay' I've been looking at, says that it's so fine it removes all contaminants but leaves wax remaining?
I'll just snow foam, then wash with strong fairy liquid, one panel at a time and rinse. Then will clay, then wash with normal AG shampoo.
After that, lime prime / Sonus paint cleanser, then machine polish, IPA then wash? Should I use a layer of IPA between each polish hit, or wax layer?
3-4 should be enough?
Arun, the Sonus 'extra fine clay' I've been looking at, says that it's so fine it removes all contaminants but leaves wax remaining?
I'll just snow foam, then wash with strong fairy liquid, one panel at a time and rinse. Then will clay, then wash with normal AG shampoo.
After that, lime prime / Sonus paint cleanser, then machine polish, IPA then wash? Should I use a layer of IPA between each polish hit, or wax layer?
Tbh you'll be fine with that clay, I've used it, is decent. IPA will remove wax, I'd use it after washing and then after polishing (before glaze, don't use after wax!)
And don't use fairy liquid!!!
And don't use fairy liquid!!!
And don't use fairy liquid!!!
Why not? If he wants to start from fresh it will remove all wax.
IMO it's easier to just remove wax with a clay bar. Claying is easier than washing IMO.
On the subject of clay bars Chris, if the Sonus extra fine clay is too soft/fine, buy a stronger clay. I've got 2 different clays, I use Bilt Hamber if the car has never been clayed/not for a long time but use a Meguiars clay if it's been recently clayed, because it's finer.
EDIT: By the way Chris, I used Bilberry wheel cleaner for the first time today (not on my car)... if you haven't already got it, get some. Excellent stuff which completely takes the pain out of washing wheels.
On the subject of clay bars Chris, if the Sonus extra fine clay is too soft/fine, buy a stronger clay. I've got 2 different clays, I use Bilt Hamber if the car has never been clayed/not for a long time but use a Meguiars clay if it's been recently clayed, because it's finer.
EDIT: By the way Chris, I used Bilberry wheel cleaner for the first time today (not on my car)... if you haven't already got it, get some. Excellent stuff which completely takes the pain out of washing wheels.
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Okay, well I've never clayed the car before however it's always been pretty clean. Might get some bilt hamber, however the Sonus has great reviews.
Already got some Autobrite 'Brite gel' for alloys. It's non-acidic, and sticks (being a gel). Lifts all the dirt, and barely even needs agitating; just pressure wash off
My previous protection on the alloys has just been some QD with carnuba wax, so going to sort the wheel sealant as well. Not sure whether to go for Gtechniq stuff, or CG wheel guard.
My current shopping list for detailing stuff is about £250-300... My wallet is weeping at the thought
Already got some Autobrite 'Brite gel' for alloys. It's non-acidic, and sticks (being a gel). Lifts all the dirt, and barely even needs agitating; just pressure wash off
My previous protection on the alloys has just been some QD with carnuba wax, so going to sort the wheel sealant as well. Not sure whether to go for Gtechniq stuff, or CG wheel guard.
My current shopping list for detailing stuff is about £250-300... My wallet is weeping at the thought
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