brad1
Guest
Tbh most people just moan about the fixing brackets, the kit is fairly easy if you know what your doing. I could fit this kit in an hour easy 
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mine came with no brackets and i had to fit the intercooler, which only just fitted. I was also using all silicone connecting pipes including the outlet pipe which for some reason just didnt want to match up to the pancake pipe replacement.
I've spike to Mike on here who has fitted it.
His top connecting bit (the one under the fuel filter lines) was about in a inch off, so he bought a rubber door stop and a longer bolt, this was his only problem.
I've been to B&Q and bought myself the same doorstop incase mine is the same.....he had no other problems.
My kit came with two 45deg silicon hoses and another 45deg hose that reduces the diameter......the instructions doesnt mention this reducing hose but im guessing it goes at the turbo end of uprated pancake pipe.??
I'm still waiting for a rain free day to fit mine......i really cant see many problems from fitting it though.
His top connecting bit (the one under the fuel filter lines) was about in a inch off, so he bought a rubber door stop and a longer bolt, this was his only problem.
I've been to B&Q and bought myself the same doorstop incase mine is the same.....he had no other problems.
My kit came with two 45deg silicon hoses and another 45deg hose that reduces the diameter......the instructions doesnt mention this reducing hose but im guessing it goes at the turbo end of uprated pancake pipe.??
I'm still waiting for a rain free day to fit mine......i really cant see many problems from fitting it though.
Rain free day? You could be waiting for a while mate!
Looks like a good kit mate, can't wait to see how it looks on the car.
Alex
Yeh, to be honest with you chris the top two pipes fit really well it just tends to be the adjustment and lining up of the pancake pipe replacement. I admit i wouldnt have had half as many problems if i'd have used the standard intercooler. As for the weather - your a fellow northerner and as such you should remember the best your goin to get is an over-cast sunday at some point 
Yeh, to be honest with you chris the top two pipes fit really well it just tends to be the adjustment and lining up of the pancake pipe replacement. I admit i wouldnt have had half as many problems if i'd have used the standard intercooler. As for the weather - your a fellow northerner and as such you should remember the best your goin to get is an over-cast sunday at some point
Over-cast Sunday sounds perfect, I can stay cool as im sweating my beefcakes off.
I only managed to get half of it fitted, but Sunday is looking good for Allards kit part 2.
So, my guide......easy really.
I already had my EGR race pipe fitted from JabbaSport. So I'm unable to review that bit, JabbaSport also mapped out the EGR CEL light as part of the EGR race pipe fitting price. From my install it appears the Allards and Jabba EGR race pipes are slightly different in bore size, the Jabba version is larger bore (you will see how I know this below in this guide)
Took my old SFS kit off.
Installed the bracket which I took off when I installed SFS kit.
Bracket installed to hold vac ball.
Install EGR side of intercooler kit.
Proceed to swear.
Jack car up and proceed to take old SFS bottom section off.
Connect up MAP section to EGR section.
Install MAP with Allards supplied bolts.
Install the lower intercooler bracket which I also took off when I put the SFS kit on and use my B&Q door stop, plus long M8 bolt & washer to fix the Allards miscalculation.
So, my guide......easy really.
I already had my EGR race pipe fitted from JabbaSport. So I'm unable to review that bit, JabbaSport also mapped out the EGR CEL light as part of the EGR race pipe fitting price.
From my install it appears the Allards and Jabba EGR race pipes are slightly different in bore size, the Jabba version is larger bore (you will see how I know this below in this guide)Took my old SFS kit off.
Installed the bracket which I took off when I installed SFS kit.
Bracket installed to hold vac ball.
Install EGR side of intercooler kit.
Proceed to swear.
Jack car up and proceed to take old SFS bottom section off.
Connect up MAP section to EGR section.
Install MAP with Allards supplied bolts.
Install the lower intercooler bracket which I also took off when I put the SFS kit on and use my B&Q door stop, plus long M8 bolt & washer to fix the Allards miscalculation.
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Use my new intercooler seals on my SFS billet adaptors., the old black ones were pretty flat tbh. The green ones are a revised part apparently.
Connect up passanger side bottom intercooler section.
End up with Allards part 1 complete.
Go for quick drive, limp back home after bottom billet pops off cos I didnt lock the horseshoe correctly - also gave me an excuse to replace with brand new horseshoe. Test drive again and smile........
So verdict, apart from the top mounting problem its a great bit of kit, because the lower MAP pipe is fixed up using the rubber doorstop the whole kit is pretty much rock solid from any movement - no vibrations like you get with the SFS kit. Car feels perky, top end torque seems stronger but without a RR session I have no idea if its in my head. However, I know my car better than any RR and I can defo feel a difference, to start with the accelerator let-off dumping sound has been reduced greatly and the torque between 2.8k and 3.5k seems alot more constant. I would describe the Allards kit as 'its made my car feel angry through the gears'
Shall do the part 2 on Sunday with any luck, I put my back out doing this which I knew it would cos I trapped a nerve recently. I kept taking long breaks but started at 10am, finished at 4pm.
I need to think up a better way of mating up the top section bracket, but just used a tie wrap for now - not a major deal as the whole kit is rock solid anyhow.......but it will make it look abit neater I guess.
**Things to be aware of**
The Allards silicone hoses (90degs) are too small for the Jabba EGR race pipe, luckily I had another 90deg section from my old SFS kit, so this went on, but its a size too big for the Allards kit. I shall buy a 90 deg reducer pipe from Forge to make it a perfect fit.
The MAP sensor is a bugger to get in the Allards MAP hole, the rubber o-ring seal around the MAP sensor is too big for the hole, so I ended up nipping the o-ring seal and taking a big chunk out of it. Luckily I have some spare o-rings that are resitant to fuels/lubricants so I used one, I took more care on my 2nd attempt and it did eventualy go in without nipping it.
The VAC bottle bracket is longer than it needs to be, I plan on cutting this and painting it up black so its a little neater.
I recommend replacing the intercooler seals as my old ones were very flat comapred to the new green ones I put on, apparently SEAT don't sell these without buying the hoses but if you ask nicely at your SEAt parts desk they may have some knocking around for 60p
I shall post up a full parts list of what I used to install.
Hope this is clear for anyone else wanting to go the Allards route.
Over and out!!
Connect up passanger side bottom intercooler section.
End up with Allards part 1 complete.
Go for quick drive, limp back home after bottom billet pops off cos I didnt lock the horseshoe correctly - also gave me an excuse to replace with brand new horseshoe. Test drive again and smile........
So verdict, apart from the top mounting problem its a great bit of kit, because the lower MAP pipe is fixed up using the rubber doorstop the whole kit is pretty much rock solid from any movement - no vibrations like you get with the SFS kit. Car feels perky, top end torque seems stronger but without a RR session I have no idea if its in my head. However, I know my car better than any RR and I can defo feel a difference, to start with the accelerator let-off dumping sound has been reduced greatly and the torque between 2.8k and 3.5k seems alot more constant. I would describe the Allards kit as 'its made my car feel angry through the gears'
Shall do the part 2 on Sunday with any luck, I put my back out doing this which I knew it would cos I trapped a nerve recently. I kept taking long breaks but started at 10am, finished at 4pm.
I need to think up a better way of mating up the top section bracket, but just used a tie wrap for now - not a major deal as the whole kit is rock solid anyhow.......but it will make it look abit neater I guess.
**Things to be aware of**
The Allards silicone hoses (90degs) are too small for the Jabba EGR race pipe, luckily I had another 90deg section from my old SFS kit, so this went on, but its a size too big for the Allards kit. I shall buy a 90 deg reducer pipe from Forge to make it a perfect fit.
The MAP sensor is a bugger to get in the Allards MAP hole, the rubber o-ring seal around the MAP sensor is too big for the hole, so I ended up nipping the o-ring seal and taking a big chunk out of it. Luckily I have some spare o-rings that are resitant to fuels/lubricants so I used one, I took more care on my 2nd attempt and it did eventualy go in without nipping it.
The VAC bottle bracket is longer than it needs to be, I plan on cutting this and painting it up black so its a little neater.
I recommend replacing the intercooler seals as my old ones were very flat comapred to the new green ones I put on, apparently SEAT don't sell these without buying the hoses but if you ask nicely at your SEAt parts desk they may have some knocking around for 60p
I shall post up a full parts list of what I used to install.
Hope this is clear for anyone else wanting to go the Allards route.
Over and out!!
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Parts list used by me (based on me replacing the SFS kit for Allards kit)
To start with I ordered these parts from SEAT as i'd removed them when installing the SFS kit - I threw the parts away![[B)]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/shades.gif "Cool [B)]")
lol
Top bracket - 038103941E
Top bracket bolt (M8*26) - N10226002
Bottom Bracket - 1J0145961C
Bottom bracket bolt (M8*40) - N0195313
Bottom Intercooler Seals - 3C0145117H (im not 100% sire on this though - best if you confirm with SEAT parts this is the correct part number)
Get to your local B&Q and get a pack (comes in pack of 2) black doorstop, this is the largest doorstops my B&Q had which are perfect. Get youself a M8 bolt thats longer than the doostop and has enough thread left over to screw into the SEAT lower bracket and some M8 washers.
JabbaSport EGR = 60mm dia.
Allards EGR = 57mm dia.
SFS kit = 60mm dia.
To start with I ordered these parts from SEAT as i'd removed them when installing the SFS kit - I threw the parts away
lolTop bracket - 038103941E
Top bracket bolt (M8*26) - N10226002
Bottom Bracket - 1J0145961C
Bottom bracket bolt (M8*40) - N0195313
Bottom Intercooler Seals - 3C0145117H (im not 100% sire on this though - best if you confirm with SEAT parts this is the correct part number)
Get to your local B&Q and get a pack (comes in pack of 2) black doorstop, this is the largest doorstops my B&Q had which are perfect. Get youself a M8 bolt thats longer than the doostop and has enough thread left over to screw into the SEAT lower bracket and some M8 washers.
JabbaSport EGR = 60mm dia.
Allards EGR = 57mm dia.
SFS kit = 60mm dia.
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brad1
Guest
i've removed the red turbo hose, and cut the metal end off as per instruction....
The red hose wont fit over the pancake replacement pipe.........and i'm left with a 90 deg reducer pipe in the allards box which isnt mentioned in the fitting instructions......???
eeek
Shall upload pics now
The red hose wont fit over the pancake replacement pipe.........and i'm left with a 90 deg reducer pipe in the allards box which isnt mentioned in the fitting instructions......???
eeek
Shall upload pics now
brad1
Guest
I thought the pancake pipe looked to big to fit in the red hose, i thought you was going to replace with a red turbo outlet pipe and allards made the end that connects to the turbo outlet pipe bigger
Red Turbo Hose with the metal end removed.
Pancake pipe in place.....all ligns up fine, but the red hose wont fit over the pancake replacement pipe.
Pancake pipe in place.....all ligns up fine, but the red hose wont fit over the pancake replacement pipe.
brad1
Guest
brad1
Guest
Mmmm, its just a idea, if the red turbo pipe simply wont go over the allard pipe, this is probably not the way its spose to go. You could make the end of the allard pipe face upwards, then put the big side of the elbow over and have the small end of the elbow facing the turbo pipe horizontally, the small sized end of the elbow will need cutting down to bring the pipe closer to the turbo red pipe if you get me, then use a small metal joiner if you got one?? Understand?? I probably takking rubbish lol
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