Air intake temp sensor / intercooler

skiddusmarkus

Active Member
Apr 30, 2010
133
0
Sorry, I can't see pics on image hosters at work but this is it. Can you see the connector plug that sits right of the dip stick and just left of the throttle body motor?

0308z+2003_Seat_Leon_Cupra_R+Underhood_18t_Engine.jpg


That's where the sensor sits :).

My thoughts on running a Stage 1 generic map with Stage 2 mods fitted after mapping are that it's not ideal. A generic map is just that, a single code intended for an otherwise standard car where it expects the car to perform in a certain way and receive fuel/air in a certain volume. Adding things like a FMIC & 3" DP will confuse the car as it's no longer receiving the volumes of air & expelling gases in the region that it expects, this can cause over fuelling which in turn leads to hesitation, bad MPG and not forgetting that the car is now working harder so EGT will be higher and may trigure fuel dump.

I have several problems which I believe are caused by running my car in this way and after much head scratching & research, me, mechanics & other enthusiasts have reached the conclusion that the mapping is wrong. The car is able to suck in huge volumes of air at the filter & TIP now which tells the turbo to work harder/push up boost, this is bad as the engine is not physically at the point at that RPM when it can ingest all of the air which causes compressor surge (air built up in the system/turbo), I am also running SMICs right now which can't cope with the red hot air passed to them by the over working turbo & then you have my 3" exhaust which is spinning the compressor wheel at a massive rate only adding to the issue. I like to add mods bit by bit to monitor the gains but it's now been pushed too far and has become upset, like I say what the car wants to do and what is is getting are too different things, it's trying to pull itself back in keeping with the code in the ECU but it can't quite do it so it's time for FMIC to go on and Stage 2 to be loaded.

If you increase the amount of air going in, then that will proportionetly increase the exhaust gases and speed up the exhaust turbine inline with this which will then further increase the amount of air being sucked in-thats how turbos work.This won't happen at the wrong revs to be ingested as it sort of controls itself ie if not enough gases being made at lower rpm then less air sucked in.
A 3" dp is just reducing back pressure which should mean you can lower the boost and get the same power, effectively slowing compressor speed not increasing it and reducing egts/inlet temps.

I agree on the generic maps though.
 

Dani_b19

Active Member
Apr 8, 2009
301
0
So is it worth cleaing the IAT sensor? Also whats the part number for changing it?
 
Jun 16, 2008
516
0
GSF no = 929VG0810
only cost £11

made an instant change to my intake readings - seems the old one was buggered.

i really recommend things like the liquid gauge - i would never have known there was a problem in the first place!
 

Dani_b19

Active Member
Apr 8, 2009
301
0
Is it a genuine part you bought mate?

I want to see if this stops my irratic/fluttering boost.
 
Jun 16, 2008
516
0
exactly the same part that was faulty.
faulty part was covered in oil, i doubt the previous owner changed it.

go for it.
 

CJRamze

Proud Seat Owner
Jun 29, 2008
2,015
2
Caldicot, South Wales
I was going to say, I dont think its not remapped to suit the mods would affect the temprature when it was fine before.

All its doing is cooling the air and reading it...
 
Jun 16, 2008
516
0
very very easy to fit, simply becuase of where its located

look at the pic above where it shows there the sensor is located.
all you need is an allen key and thats it!

open, replace, done.
3 minutes tops
 
Genuine SEAT Parts and Accessories.