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acceleration hesitant
- Thread starter lorne
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- acceleration hesitant
lorne
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cheers mate, def won't be tonight then! I also need to get a gasket for the throttle body, would a halfords stock some gasket paper?
Not the best news mate.
I have tried to capture it on VAG-Com without any sucess in the past although mine is almost none existant now though following the reseating of the spark plugs.
I was never entirely sure it wasn't map / fuel related.
I have tried to capture it on VAG-Com without any sucess in the past although mine is almost none existant now though following the reseating of the spark plugs.
I was never entirely sure it wasn't map / fuel related.
Arg
Guest
Arg
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ishmo186
Guest
when you clean your throttle body you do realise that you need to readapt it at your volkswagen dealership to its basic settings using special diagnostic equipment VAG5051 otherwise it will still think that the butterfly valve has dirt inside the throttle body even though you have cleaned it spotlessly. Other main problems could be the pipe off your airbox, the big bulky rubber one that connects onto the turbo, they are PRONE to splitting at the turbo end and causing air leaks therefore loosing boost and runing rough, the N75 valve normally shows up on the diagnostic machine if there is a problem with it, hows your airmass meter any faults come up with that? coolant temp sensors are always going on the VAG vehicles ive changed about a million so could be that if it is more in the cold, coil packs are a big issue with Golf and leon 1.8t there was a recall on them being faulty and making the engin hesitant and stalling, warrenty will cover this. Last thing is, what condition is your turbo any play in the impellar's bearing or not checked, we have had them come in with the turbo knacked after 30k miles - loads of them!really easy to check it, just take rubber pipe off turbo and feel for play in impeller.hope this is all usefull to you
Arg
Guest
Thanks.
Latest is, engine management light has come on. No codes are showing on the climate control unit.
last time a coil pack failed, it was obvious which one as the spark plugs were a different colour to the others, but all the same colour this time. Felt around the airbox pipe to the turbo and couldn't feel any splits.
The rough running occured some time ago then disappeared. Now it's back and it doesn't just happen when cold.
So I assume, the only thing I can do now is take it to the dealer as I cannot read the codes unless anyone in the Biggleswade area can read my codes?
Latest is, engine management light has come on. No codes are showing on the climate control unit.
last time a coil pack failed, it was obvious which one as the spark plugs were a different colour to the others, but all the same colour this time. Felt around the airbox pipe to the turbo and couldn't feel any splits.
The rough running occured some time ago then disappeared. Now it's back and it doesn't just happen when cold.
So I assume, the only thing I can do now is take it to the dealer as I cannot read the codes unless anyone in the Biggleswade area can read my codes?
Simple one this. Open the bonnet and the drivers door, turn on ignition and wait until the buzzing noise from the throttle body stops (roughly 30 secs). Throttle body realigned.
How many of us have had N75 problems with no fault code? Quite a few.
This would be my bet. Either that or a sticky dump valve.
Arg
Guest
Its only really likely on an aftermarket dump valve. Standard ones are diaphragm types and only ever stick in the closed position. Its located at the back right of your engine as you look at it from the front of the car. Its a platic/metal cylinder with a hose coming off the side, one off the bottom into the air intake just downstream of the MAF and a smaller vacuum hose coming off the top and going to the brake servo amplifier thats fixed over your no.4 coil pack. You need to remove the engine cover to see it properly.
lorne
Guest
Sorry for the late reply everyone,thanks for your continuing support!!!
STE: I have tried injector cleaner but that did nothing.1 thing I will say though, after using it there was still no change in the car so I took it to the md again who checked everything again, and told me that the cleaner had changed to colour of the spark plugs. If this is a bad thing I don't know but they didn't seem too bothered by it....either way the plugs were changed....still no joy!
Cupra Ross: I see you've mentioned about the self adjusting throttle body....I have done this, but the buzzing noise people keep going on about is not heard....could this mean I have a problem with the actual throttle body???
Oh and ishmo: you star writing all that out, must have worn your fingers to the bone....I've tried most of what you said but haven't as yet changed the coolent tem sensor or checked the turbo impeller.....will do this shortly
Thanks again ppl
STE: I have tried injector cleaner but that did nothing.1 thing I will say though, after using it there was still no change in the car so I took it to the md again who checked everything again, and told me that the cleaner had changed to colour of the spark plugs. If this is a bad thing I don't know but they didn't seem too bothered by it....either way the plugs were changed....still no joy!
Cupra Ross: I see you've mentioned about the self adjusting throttle body....I have done this, but the buzzing noise people keep going on about is not heard....could this mean I have a problem with the actual throttle body???
Oh and ishmo: you star writing all that out, must have worn your fingers to the bone....I've tried most of what you said but haven't as yet changed the coolent tem sensor or checked the turbo impeller.....will do this shortly
Thanks again ppl
The TB align process is not very loud. Try it again and listen closely to the throttle body. Remember you must open the drivers door and the bonnet with ignition off and key removed, then turn on once door and bonnet are open.
With regard to the coolant temp sensor. Its usually very easy to tell if its knackered as your coolant temp gauge will go up and down of its own accord. I personally think that its almost certainly not your turbo impeller. If the bearings were gone your turbo would destroy itself in very short order.
With regard to the coolant temp sensor. Its usually very easy to tell if its knackered as your coolant temp gauge will go up and down of its own accord. I personally think that its almost certainly not your turbo impeller. If the bearings were gone your turbo would destroy itself in very short order.
ishmo186
Guest
Hey Ross yes the throttle body is self adjusting but when you clean it out yourself, it requires setting back to the basic setting via. the diagnostic machine, VAG5051> 01. Engine Electronics> Adaption>Channel 30 0r 60> Adaption runs> Adaption OK, its not as simple as just turn ignition on wait 30 secs.
To test the dump valve you would require a midi-vac ideally, remove the dump valve and use the midi vac to open and close the valve manually to see if its sticking or not, or you could attach a piece of pipe to the dump valve and suck n blow it to operate the valve to see if it sticks. Usually when your coolant temp sensor goes it brings on an engine light unless the fault is recorded as sporadic(intermittant) then it will just stay in the fault memory and the light will come on now an again.Worth a try they only cost a couple of quid and pretty easy to change yourself. Again Air Mass meter is pretty common on the VAG vehicles but you can usually tell, if its a suspected air mass meter disconnect the sensor and have a drive with the sensor disconnected, this is located on the pipe on your airbox, with it being disconnected the ECU tells the car to go to basic settings and makes an estimate of what air should be going in which is usually pretty accurate, if the car runs better then its ur air mass meter, if same then you can rule that out. Also maybe theres an air leak somewhere, buy yourself some brake/clutch cleaner or carburettor cleaner, start the engine and then spray some of this onto all the vacuum pipes and pipes leading to turbo, if the engine revs itself, it means theres an air leak somewhere, which can cause the symptoms that you describe, main place where i have found the air leak is the pipe from your airbox to the turbo, but you have to reach right down to the turbo to feel it as it splits where it joins the turbo, this is a pretty common fault and have witnessed this a few times, best thing is too do it from underneath the vehicle as you can visually see it better. Next thing would probably be the N75 as this controls the boost, cnt really check these without a diagnostic machine,but these are also common but wudnt do this till you have checked and done all the cheaper things lol. Play in the turbos impellor bearing could be another reason, does the vehicle excessively smoke, etc. can feel this manually by taking off hose and sticking fingers in and having a wiggle, if none of these things cure it, the problem may be something a little deeper i.e leaking valves, lambda sensors, coil packs, Injectors, sumtimes even an ECU or bad connection to the ECU, could try cleaning all the earth points in the engine thats worked for me a few times.
Let me no how you get on
alex (ishmo)
To test the dump valve you would require a midi-vac ideally, remove the dump valve and use the midi vac to open and close the valve manually to see if its sticking or not, or you could attach a piece of pipe to the dump valve and suck n blow it to operate the valve to see if it sticks. Usually when your coolant temp sensor goes it brings on an engine light unless the fault is recorded as sporadic(intermittant) then it will just stay in the fault memory and the light will come on now an again.Worth a try they only cost a couple of quid and pretty easy to change yourself. Again Air Mass meter is pretty common on the VAG vehicles but you can usually tell, if its a suspected air mass meter disconnect the sensor and have a drive with the sensor disconnected, this is located on the pipe on your airbox, with it being disconnected the ECU tells the car to go to basic settings and makes an estimate of what air should be going in which is usually pretty accurate, if the car runs better then its ur air mass meter, if same then you can rule that out. Also maybe theres an air leak somewhere, buy yourself some brake/clutch cleaner or carburettor cleaner, start the engine and then spray some of this onto all the vacuum pipes and pipes leading to turbo, if the engine revs itself, it means theres an air leak somewhere, which can cause the symptoms that you describe, main place where i have found the air leak is the pipe from your airbox to the turbo, but you have to reach right down to the turbo to feel it as it splits where it joins the turbo, this is a pretty common fault and have witnessed this a few times, best thing is too do it from underneath the vehicle as you can visually see it better. Next thing would probably be the N75 as this controls the boost, cnt really check these without a diagnostic machine,but these are also common but wudnt do this till you have checked and done all the cheaper things lol. Play in the turbos impellor bearing could be another reason, does the vehicle excessively smoke, etc. can feel this manually by taking off hose and sticking fingers in and having a wiggle, if none of these things cure it, the problem may be something a little deeper i.e leaking valves, lambda sensors, coil packs, Injectors, sumtimes even an ECU or bad connection to the ECU, could try cleaning all the earth points in the engine thats worked for me a few times.
Let me no how you get on
alex (ishmo)
anyone else wish he'd split this up into paragraphs?? lol
I personally think thats looking to hard into it. By the way you've described things and the fact the problem isnt getting any worse, i would say its coolant temp sensor or MAF.
But as you say you've replaced maf id be leaning towards coolant temp sensor. If this is faulty it will not necessarily cause the gauge to go up and down, it will cause the vehicle to to run rich or lean..causing running problems when hot or cold. I would try this next before you start worrying about turbo's and ecu's etc.
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