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2.0l 16v tuning

vngtx

Guest
what do you reckon is the limit of an 8v? i dont mean my 116k engine, if i sneezed on it, it wud probably explode. id get a low mileage one. plenty of turbo kits for them.
 

Zero

Full Member
Feb 11, 2005
135
0
190 is the most ive seen

If we talk about ABF engine then one guy near me has 215HP without standalone and ITBs!

You can also see here one movie with ABF engine in Golf1 and 235HP
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IttUApWC58

There are also a lot of cars with 280HP(without STW head) but with 9A shortblock.

@RichardMurkin an crossedmike
leave the engine(until you have too much money). The first tuning stuff on ABF is lighter flywheel and shorther gearbox (i have 4.24FD with longer 5. gear- you can get this parts very cheap from passat gearbox CRU).You have feeling that you have got 30HP more :)

The guy with 215HP has told me that driving was awful until he didn`t bought seq dogbox ;)
 

crossedmike

Guest
thanks for the advise might have to have alook into the gear box and as for a lightend fly wheel ill have a look at getting one in next week as my engine is in bits :) for a nice clean and engine bay clean while weather is crap :)
 

crossedmike

Guest
i know this is going to sound silly but im asking because i dont know does the size of the wheel effect performance as in bigger wheel less turns and smalled wheel more turns so would that not effect the power because on smaller wheels using more power to get more distance with more turns or am i just talking out me ass
 

Zero

Full Member
Feb 11, 2005
135
0
Rolling road lottery I guess then :D

i must also say that bottom end is not original anymore, it is lightened with higher CR. Engine is also not made for passing MOT so cams are also a little more mad than just 268 inlet/std outlet :) with other words, there is a lot of money invest in engine, just without ITBs and ECU (for now).

Cupra of H8SV8S has made just 3HP more with ITBs (but much more torque) so i think that 215HP is posible without "Trotter" bodies :) ABF digifant is also good, just hates mad cams.


btw dave, you maybe know how much WHP do you have now?
 

elcristoff

Cupra Sport ****yeah!
Apr 8, 2009
167
0
Portsmouth
i think its all about surface area, as a larger wheel has a higher surface area = more power.

Also a smaller wheel has to turn faster putting more strain on the engine.

But that is all a guess :p
 

vngtx

Guest
i think its all about surface area, as a larger wheel has a higher surface area = more power.

Also a smaller wheel has to turn faster putting more strain on the engine.

But that is all a guess :p

bigger wheel takes more effort to turn to begin, slower acceleration and slightly higher top speed.
 

Zero

Full Member
Feb 11, 2005
135
0
copy/paste from H8SV8S

- Complete ABF
- Mild head port/Stage 1 or 2 on stock valves
- 2.5" exhaust and standard header
- 270+ or similar camset and stock valve springs, preferebly with SEAT Cupra ABF lifters as they're lighter than the VW ones
- Standalone engine management and 7,500rpm rev limit - none of this half-cocked stuff. You want your own sensors and complete freedom with tuning
- Stock intake with panel filter and cold-air pipe to airbox
- Ported throttle body
- Quality spark plugs and pump fuel
- Several hours dyno time with final mapping on the road
- Plus a few other bits and pieces
- This spec made 202bhp and 161lb/ft

Engine two:

- Complete ABF
- Same head spec as above
- 45mm independent throttle bodies with port matched manifold (if they're not direct to head bodies) - get this matching done when you get the head ported.
- Throttle body heatshield (see pic of one I designed below) or custom radiator that sits below the grille - you'd be surprised how much heat soak the ITBs get from the radiator. I don't like airboxes as they lose the induction sound, which makes Honda-boy wet his pants
- Air filters obviously, sock-style are fine but allegedly don't flow all that well - I've not had any trouble myself though
- Again, 2.5" exhaust and stock manifold
- Standalone ECU again
- 268 inlet cam and stock ABF, or 260 exhaust cam, stock valve springs and SEAT lifters
- Catch tank and quality plugs
- You need more nuts, bolts, hardware and fabrication for the ITBs
- You also need more dyno time as they're quite difficult to get mapped properly (at least, I've found this).
- This motor (admittedly running twin 268s) made 205hp & 177lb/ft and drive so much better than engine number one as the torque spread is huge in comparison.

 

crossedmike

Guest
knowing my luck would get it all done and 1 of 2 things would happy wouldnt start or would explode orrr i would get in a argument with a tree lampost or lesser car than a seat lol
 

crossedmike

Guest
but tbh this is the only car i like ive had a clio 172 and astra and this is the only car i have actually treated well as in not ragged or driven stupid lol i think i like it to much
 

Dave_R

Save a Sheep...Buy Brembo
Sep 20, 2004
3,666
1
South Wales
copy/paste from H8SV8S

- Complete ABF
- Mild head port/Stage 1 or 2 on stock valves
- 2.5" exhaust and standard header
- 270+ or similar camset and stock valve springs, preferebly with SEAT Cupra ABF lifters as they're lighter than the VW ones
- Standalone engine management and 7,500rpm rev limit - none of this half-cocked stuff. You want your own sensors and complete freedom with tuning
- Stock intake with panel filter and cold-air pipe to airbox
- Ported throttle body
- Quality spark plugs and pump fuel
- Several hours dyno time with final mapping on the road
- Plus a few other bits and pieces
- This spec made 202bhp and 161lb/ft

Engine two:

- Complete ABF
- Same head spec as above
- 45mm independent throttle bodies with port matched manifold (if they're not direct to head bodies) - get this matching done when you get the head ported.
- Throttle body heatshield (see pic of one I designed below) or custom radiator that sits below the grille - you'd be surprised how much heat soak the ITBs get from the radiator. I don't like airboxes as they lose the induction sound, which makes Honda-boy wet his pants
- Air filters obviously, sock-style are fine but allegedly don't flow all that well - I've not had any trouble myself though
- Again, 2.5" exhaust and stock manifold
- Standalone ECU again
- 268 inlet cam and stock ABF, or 260 exhaust cam, stock valve springs and SEAT lifters
- Catch tank and quality plugs
- You need more nuts, bolts, hardware and fabrication for the ITBs
- You also need more dyno time as they're quite difficult to get mapped properly (at least, I've found this).
- This motor (admittedly running twin 268s) made 205hp & 177lb/ft and drive so much better than engine number one as the torque spread is huge in comparison.


Engine 1: running that duration cams on stock ecu isn't possible, mine had 268 on stock ecu and that would be the limit... I even had people tell me before I did it the limit was 260 but I wouldn't say anymore specially with 270. I'm running 278 degree cams with throttle bodies! Also guess "header" is exhuast manfold?? He used a standard manifold no way would that make 200bhp... my TSR mandiolf was a good mod for me before I pushed on with cams... it does help that much!

Engine 2: The cams are used are very mild for the use of throttle bodies, like I said with my old set up with a polished and de tapered throttle body I had 268 cams inlet and exhaust. People with the standard induction use 260 inlet & exhaust or 260/268 inlet and stock exhaust cam but with throttle bodies it will be silly not to go a bit wilder!

Specially in different countries power is measured different, the most I've read with someone using a standard ecu, ported and polished head and cams is 193bhp. And the torque on "engine 1" is a silly amount for standard ecu and inlet manifold.

Think mine is something like 170ish WHP and 207 at the flywheel.
 
Last edited:

Zero

Full Member
Feb 11, 2005
135
0
the most I've read with someone using a standard ecu, ported and polished head and cams is 193bhp.

you mean Ess with 196HP? with 268/268 he could hit 200HP and that is with original bottom end. if i know good, F2Stu has got ca 25HP just with bottom end.

i will try to find one dyno from germany, 204HP with original ecu and original bottom end, but with 276 schricks. So why is 215HP not possible? :) The guy has this car for hillclimb, 6-speed dogbox with top speed 115mph :) i will try to find the car in action

anyway, here is one ibiza with 276/276 and original ecu.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOLpXwA9G1k
 

Dave_R

Save a Sheep...Buy Brembo
Sep 20, 2004
3,666
1
South Wales
Because the stock ecu isn't advanced enough to map to allow the parameters needs to map/alter for use of such a degree cam! Sorry but "could" isn't enough here, I'm going to run my car at another rollers and see what teh difference I get because when it comes to talking about "bhp" pub talk really it's a RR Lottery!

Stealth Racing gave me a print out at 190bhp and then put it on a local rollers by me and pulled 185bhp.... 5bhp lost in just using different rollers. It's all good having a tidy bottom end but you still need to be able to get enough flow air into the engine to allow for that sort of power and I don't think it's possible using a polished stock thottle body to supply all four ports.
 

Zero

Full Member
Feb 11, 2005
135
0
look,car isn´t mine so i am not interested if the engine made 215HP or 205HP :)

i drive in cupra 268/260 schrick because i am still on original ecu and want to pass MOT (but i also think that this combo of cams is the best for daily ABF :) )

and read again engine1 spec from H8SV8S, it is with stanalone.
 
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