RobT said:
christ,that head dont look to good,hes not mentioned anything about damage and ive not asked any other questions about it,dont think ill be buying a heavily repaired head
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16v head opinions please
- Thread starter (beeza gti)
- Start date
christ,that head dont look to good,hes not mentioned anything about damage and ive not asked any other questions about it,dont think ill be buying a heavily repaired head
rob what have i said that youve taken offence to, you made it a personal sale asking if it was chris, i know of chris from attending trackdays and being a member of cgti. On an anonymous (to me) sale I gave my opinion, ive been there with a bust head and sourced a replacement 16v kr, 100 quid, it was going to cost me around another 100 quid for a port job and maybe another 100 on bits and bobs, fresh belts etc. I stated that 600 was a lot of money for a second hand head as it doesnt state the cams etc are new just the valves and seals.
Ive been a happy camper on here since 2001 and from both my own experiences (some good and some bad) and other peoples input I would like to think i wasnt as stupid as you insinuate.
Ive been a happy camper on here since 2001 and from both my own experiences (some good and some bad) and other peoples input I would like to think i wasnt as stupid as you insinuate.
(beeza gti) said:
If its been repaired properly by the guy who did the original flow work, its likely to be fine, the guy knows his stuff with VW heads and is the leading VW head man in the UK. The damage was not that massive really.
What you have to consider is that this will be a properly flowed head - not polished and ponced about with like you might get from many other places, rally shops etc, most of which know sweet FA about VW engines - and if you buy one from somewhere else, you have no guarentee of previous condition. Even if you send your own head in, its no guarentee that you will get your own back. At least with this one you know where its coming from and that the guy who did it is an expert in VW heads.
Ask the questions and Chris should be straight with ya - if not then walk away.
thank you for the sound advice,if any of you where in my situation you would want to do your research ,and this is the site i get my knowledge as im a noob on cgti, i really didnt want to cause any probs and talk about anybody, anyways,ive emailed the fella with my que's and im gunna way up the pro's and con's as rob said and what ive read the guy who's done the head work is very good,so thats peice of mind
cordobabrendy said:
I think it all sounds worse than its meant to, no real offense taken but statements like 'pop it down the local rally shop and get it done for 50p' (ok a bit of artistic licence there) arn't helpful - I have paid well into 3 figures for heads and you get what you pay for believe me. Whats the problem with making it personal ? I recogised the pictures.....what was I supposed to do ? say nothing....dont worry fellow cupranet member, it might be a dud....I think not. Maybe its not the one I think it is....if not then fine, but its worth asking the question just to be sure.
Cummon, think nice things....group hug time.....sorry if I was out of order, didn't mean to be.....will you still be my friend ?
Lots of Love
Rob
XXXXX
ps - went on a behavioural assessment course with work (not me, although maybe I need it, but for dealing with people with special skills)....fascinating fact......92% of how you are perceived by others comes from tone of voice and body language, only 8% is down to the words that you say.....and what are internet forums ? ONLY WORDS - explains lots of the aggro that happens on here.
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RobT said:
wrong chris, wrong head.. nuff said.
lots of confusion round these parts
must be the temperatures
I reckon it looks alrite and if it has been properly flowed and rebuilt, it could be worth that much. You are buying the finished product, someone has done all the running around sourcing parts and getting it machined, you can just reap the benefit. I`d just bolt it on and have fun.
ChrisP
Guest
Just to clarify some of the details on this post
The pics of the head are actually one that hasn’t ever been damaged – to the best of my knowledge. The damaged head was repaired and looks identical to the one in the pictures shown here. When I took the damaged head back to the workshop where it was originally done I wasn’t entirely convinced that I would be happy with the repair, so I gave another standard 16v head to be worked so I wouldn’t have to wait another few weeks after getting the repaired head done if I wasn’t happy with it.
The outcome of the repair was that it was done to a very high standard. It is only because I know which chamber was affected that I can tell where is has been repaired – normally when ally is welded you will see a line where the old and new metals join, but this is not evident here. I was very happy with the repair and I would have been putting this on my engine, but other factors outside of anything to do with the head meant I haven’t done this (the debris from the valve and chamber damage was worse in the bores than first thought and meant the engine had to come out to be honed properly at a machine shop)
So I am selling two heads, one bare head, and the other is fully built up – new tappets, KR cams, new cam chain, new studs, early Golf 16v metal water housings with new seals, 3 new temp senders. It is ready to fit directly to the block, with no bits to swap over. The reason that the repair wasn’t mentioned originally is that I wanted to sell the non repaired head first, and as of last night I have now done that. The buyer only wants the bare head, so all the other bits go with the repaired one. The repair is to a very high standard, and will not compromise it in any way.
With the bits that are included over and above a head that you would buy at around £600 from Stealth or C&R (and I mention these two particularly as the workshop that has done these heads supplies the exact same product to them) I do think that it’s good value (but there again I would say that as the seller I suppose). I wont be making any money on what I am selling, in fact I will lose, but I want to recover a good part of my outlay.
The other thing that I should mention is with regard to the workmanship that goes into these heads. The guy responsible has been doing VW heads for over 25 years, and was responsible for the first 16v VW head in this country (for those that want to know, it was for a BRM 16v that they imported themselves from Germany before they were sold here in the UK, back in 1985/86) He does a lot of work for the VW cup guys and knows what he is doing with these heads. I personally will go to someone who has a good reputation within the circle of work that I am wanting, in this case VW cylinder heads. There are quite a few of his heads running in Golfs that I know and have driven. They all without fail make good power. Whether other tuners heads would be to the same standard, I don’t know, but the only other flowed head that I have come across had very large port work, but nothing done to the chambers or valve area.
One more point to clarify is with the castings of the 16v heads. All of the 16v’s, be it KR, 9A, 6A, or ABF all use the same (051) casting apart from very early 16v Golfs (which had an 027 cast). There are differences in the size of the ports between the standard KR, 9A, and 6A because of the applications in which they were used, but the only other difference that the ABF head has is the valve stem length. There are details of this somewhere on the net, but I don’t have a link to this any more. Once the heads are worked, they all become equal in terms of output.
I have written all this in an email to BeezaGTI and I am more than happy to show him the work that has been done to repair the head if desired
The pics of the head are actually one that hasn’t ever been damaged – to the best of my knowledge. The damaged head was repaired and looks identical to the one in the pictures shown here. When I took the damaged head back to the workshop where it was originally done I wasn’t entirely convinced that I would be happy with the repair, so I gave another standard 16v head to be worked so I wouldn’t have to wait another few weeks after getting the repaired head done if I wasn’t happy with it.
The outcome of the repair was that it was done to a very high standard. It is only because I know which chamber was affected that I can tell where is has been repaired – normally when ally is welded you will see a line where the old and new metals join, but this is not evident here. I was very happy with the repair and I would have been putting this on my engine, but other factors outside of anything to do with the head meant I haven’t done this (the debris from the valve and chamber damage was worse in the bores than first thought and meant the engine had to come out to be honed properly at a machine shop)
So I am selling two heads, one bare head, and the other is fully built up – new tappets, KR cams, new cam chain, new studs, early Golf 16v metal water housings with new seals, 3 new temp senders. It is ready to fit directly to the block, with no bits to swap over. The reason that the repair wasn’t mentioned originally is that I wanted to sell the non repaired head first, and as of last night I have now done that. The buyer only wants the bare head, so all the other bits go with the repaired one. The repair is to a very high standard, and will not compromise it in any way.
With the bits that are included over and above a head that you would buy at around £600 from Stealth or C&R (and I mention these two particularly as the workshop that has done these heads supplies the exact same product to them) I do think that it’s good value (but there again I would say that as the seller I suppose). I wont be making any money on what I am selling, in fact I will lose, but I want to recover a good part of my outlay.
The other thing that I should mention is with regard to the workmanship that goes into these heads. The guy responsible has been doing VW heads for over 25 years, and was responsible for the first 16v VW head in this country (for those that want to know, it was for a BRM 16v that they imported themselves from Germany before they were sold here in the UK, back in 1985/86) He does a lot of work for the VW cup guys and knows what he is doing with these heads. I personally will go to someone who has a good reputation within the circle of work that I am wanting, in this case VW cylinder heads. There are quite a few of his heads running in Golfs that I know and have driven. They all without fail make good power. Whether other tuners heads would be to the same standard, I don’t know, but the only other flowed head that I have come across had very large port work, but nothing done to the chambers or valve area.
One more point to clarify is with the castings of the 16v heads. All of the 16v’s, be it KR, 9A, 6A, or ABF all use the same (051) casting apart from very early 16v Golfs (which had an 027 cast). There are differences in the size of the ports between the standard KR, 9A, and 6A because of the applications in which they were used, but the only other difference that the ABF head has is the valve stem length. There are details of this somewhere on the net, but I don’t have a link to this any more. Once the heads are worked, they all become equal in terms of output.
I have written all this in an email to BeezaGTI and I am more than happy to show him the work that has been done to repair the head if desired
The guys name is Dave Crisell and he does not normally deal directly with the public - also known as 'man in a shed heads'
He originally did the BRM heads when they started doing 16V conversions in the mid 80's - on std size valves, inlet flow inc 22% (86cu ft/min to 106) and exhaust flow inc 39% (66 to 92). Both at 10"WG air pressure.
He originally did the BRM heads when they started doing 16V conversions in the mid 80's - on std size valves, inlet flow inc 22% (86cu ft/min to 106) and exhaust flow inc 39% (66 to 92). Both at 10"WG air pressure.
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