EA211 timing belt/water pump replacement.

rdraheim

Active Member
Jul 18, 2023
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Searching out a "used but good" coil to have - just in case, is what I did for my wife's Polo.
I just swapped it out as the first corroded after 40k and needed to be replaced. I had it swapped at 100k again. A new part was inexpensive ... £40 for a BOSCH OEM unit. Got 4 to worry about the EA211 engine and that fancy-pants adjustable cam timing.

The throttle response sucks on the EA211 versus the EA111 as well but I'm too cheap for a pedal box.
 
Sep 12, 2023
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VW Group, need to wake up I think, while I'm very satisfied with my 2011 Audi S4 - if I was willing to scatter lots of cash and replace it with a nearly new Audi S4 - which now only has a TDI engine, I think that I'd be very disappointed with my purchase.
 
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Crossthreaded

Active Member
Apr 16, 2019
546
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Just a wee update on my Ibiza situation - if anybody is interested?

We've been running around Edinburgh and out into Midlothian during the summer but haven't run up a helluva lot of miles. The wee "tumbly knocking" noise I'm attributing to wear in the O/S inner driveshaft plunge joint is now a bit more noticeable, especially when slowing down on really smooth road surfaces where transmitted road noise is at a minimum - slowing for the roundabout under the A720, where the A68 meets the city bypass, coming back into town, the road surface is especially smooth and the noise can be heard clearly when slowing there. There's also a harshness that wasn't there before the Devon trip. I'm betting the farm on it being wear in that joint.

So, with a a few weeks in hand before the big family wedding down near Alton, Hants, it's time to make some decisions. I've just had her up on stands for a crawl under to check on that joint.
Observations are:
1) Carrying out the usual checks for wheel bearings - ie, hold at 12 and 6 o'clock, then again at 3 and 9 o'clock and tug/rock looking for play etc in the hub. then spin by hand and listen for bearing noise and there's not even a hint of a problem with the bearings or hubs.
2) With both front wheels free to spin - engine stationary and G/B in neutral - and lying with my "good ear" on the centreline of the car I can just hear a slight noise from the inner plunge joint on the O/S shaft when rotating the wheel by hand. Trying to feel for play in that inner plunge joint reveals little by way of play either radially or axially, which surprises me. Chocking the N/S wheel doesn't help much (thought I might hear more by stopping the N/S driveshaft rotating) but all that happened was the noise of the diff spider gears tumbling over themselves masked other noises.
3) So then I took the car off the axle stands and ran the front wheels up onto my ramps as i'd remembered I'd found play when i did it that way before - I don't think the play is so obvious when the shafts are in droop? Oh yes, now there's rotational play between the shaft and the outer cup, Still pretty much zero play up and down though. Then I started wondering if the plunge joint boot was stopping me feeling the full range of the play due to me not being able to exert enough rotational force to the outer cup of the joint by hand alone - So I got out a strap wrench - very similar to this: https://www.toolstation.com/strap-wrench-set/p98766 which allowed me to apply much more force, and oh yes, there's a wee bit more movement in this than I could detect using just my hand to grip the joint. I think that with the front wheels on the stands (and so effectively immobile) and the shafts in the same position they will be when running and the increased leverage I'm getting with the strap wrench I'm now "seeing" the true extent of the wear in this tripod joint. It's not horrendous yet, I've seen much worse, but I think asking it to go a long journey is probably a bit silly, better think about a new one. Tried the same procedure on the N/S and there's really very little detectable play at all.

So, N/S is probably OK (which lines up with something I read about the O/S plunge joint being known to fail first? Wonder where I read that?). Rang up my factor for a new one and was very surprised to learn they don't supply driveshafts! Then tried a couple of others who said they might be able to do the shaft complete but definitely not the plunge joint on it's own. Just been looking on line and can't find anyone doing the plunge joint but there are a number of listings for the whole shaft - much more pricey of course - but no one has them in stock. Going to try ringing West End to find out if the plunge joint is available on it's own and if not what a genuine VAG shaft will cost - also what the availability is. Might be the same deal as with the gearbox, where it had to come from Germany?

In the meantime continuing to expand my search options - going to give Cox Motor Parts a ring as they've been helpful in the past. Anyone else with suggestions?

Have to say, with the new gearbox now in place, I'm just slightly worried about prizing the the old shaft out against it's retaining circlip. Sometimes they can be very tight and I've got visions of cracks being induced in the nice new casing! Just me being "silly" of course. Very pleased to be able to see the new box is completely oil tight - as you'd expect, but nice to see never the less.
 

RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,967
1,059
South Scotland
VW Group, need to wake up I think, while I'm very satisfied with my 2011 Audi S4 - if I was willing to scatter lots of cash and replace it with a nearly new Audi S4 - which now only has a TDI engine, I think that I'd be very disappointed with my purchase.
Well my 2011 S4 6MT only gets used for long journeys, which means at 12.5 years of age, its mileage is maybe still just under 30K miles! I am also very satisfied with mine and owned it since July 2013.

Edit:- I'm sure that you are aware that the RS6 is known as "the most complete performance car", ie not only a performance use car, but an every day run-around, not sure that I could sell that fact/idea to my wife!!
 
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RUM4MO

Active Member
Jun 4, 2008
7,967
1,059
South Scotland
@Crossthreaded, sorry to hear about your continuing woes, I don't have anything to offer I'd afraid, I've been handing a few lumps of money over to West End Skoda recently, but so far I've just built up "kits" for replacing the rear bump stops as one of them is cracking, and there is at times lots of horrible noises from the off side front suspension. Initially I bought in all necessary bolts and nuts and top mountings and top bearings as I thought that it was a failing or settled rubber bonded top mounting, but now I've spotted the rear bonded mounting bush for the off side TCA is separating at the upper side, from its steel centre bush, so I'm going to try changing them on both sides as well as fitting a pair of new ARB droplinks left over from my older daughter's 2009 Ibiza(these droplonks were only bought in case I needed to cut off the original ones when replacing the front springs!). I had "seized the moment" many years ago when I spotted a tool being sold on ebay to press these TCA rear bushes out and in, so I'm "glad" that now I can use it!

I don't know how useful a test this is, but as my wife's August 2015 Polo got its near side strut top mounting and bearing under warranty - wrong diagnosis but that is Western Kinnaird Park's problem, I eased up the plastic water deflector in front of the windscreen and unscrewed to plastic caps from the strut ends, and by using drill bits, I measured the gap between the large steel washer and the body where these strut top mountings are located, the original one, ie the off side had a much bigger gap than the "replaced at 3 years old" near side, so these bonded rubber top mountings do settle quite a bit.
 
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Crossthreaded

Active Member
Apr 16, 2019
546
150
I had "seized the moment" many years ago when I spotted a tool being sold on ebay to press these TCA rear bushes out and in, so I'm "glad" that now I can use it!
I've got a few things like that which have been acquired on the spur of the moment due to me perceiving them to be good value. For instance the special crow foot I bought for doing the lock nuts on the Pinto when adjusting valve clearances. Made doing the middle ones much easier.

P1110441.JPG

Strange thing for me to buy when you think it was mostly BMC/BL stuff I worked on? Probably only used it about half a dozen times!
I don't know how useful a test this is, but as my wife's August 2015 Polo got its near side strut top mounting and bearing under warranty - wrong diagnosis but that is Western Kinnaird Park's problem, I eased up the plastic water deflector in front of the windscreen and unscrewed to plastic caps from the strut ends, and by using drill bits, I measured the gap between the large steel washer and the body where these strut top mountings are located, the original one, ie the off side had a much bigger gap than the "replaced at 3 years old" near side, so these bonded rubber top mountings do settle quite a bit.
Now you've made me think a bit. I'm pretty much convinced that most of the problem I now have is associated with that driveshaft so the logical thing to do is replace it and see if all the symptoms go away. However it might be that some of the general harshness I'm experiencing could be due to degraded rubber insulating bushing. I'll be taking a much closer look at all the bushes and sub frame mounting bolts than I previously did.
 
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