Well, a slight flaw in that logic, not all engines have cambelts and not all engines that have cambelts have a "service replacement period" on the cambelt, ie EA211 engine cambelts only need replaced as and when they show signs of wear and tear - and the coolant system does not need opening up on some engines when the cambelt is replaced.A few questions about how often the coolant should be changed if the bag is removed - answer to that is that the coolant is changed at every cambelt change anyway, so no issues at all.
Removing the bag was the first job I did on my Leon 1.6TDI
Good startAsked the mechanic that’s fixing my car at the moment through insurance about this. They said they’d never heard of the silica bag before…
Agreed and accepted, though I was under the impression that the silica bags were only in the diesel engines, and all the VAG diesel engines were belt driven. My 1.6TDI Leon had the silica bag in, and I removed it, but my 1.2TSI Toledo is chain driven and does not have the bagWell, a slight flaw in that logic, not all engines have cambelts and not all engines that have cambelts have a "service replacement period" on the cambelt, ie EA211 engine cambelts only need replaced as and when they show signs of wear and tear - and the coolant system does not need opening up on some engines when the cambelt is replaced.
The "only fitted with diesel engines" is what I initially thought as it was said that it was the higher temperatures at times that caused the need to bolster the silicate in the coolant, but it turns out that that might have been true at one time, but not later on. My older daughter's late 2019 Leon Cupra certainly was fitted with one of these coolant reservoirs at the factory.Agreed and accepted, though I was under the impression that the silica bags were only in the diesel engines, and all the VAG diesel engines were belt driven. My 1.6TDI Leon had the silica bag in, and I removed it, but my 1.2TSI Toledo is chain driven and does not have the bag
in service manual for EA888 (1.8tsi, 2.0tsi) and also for diesel EA288 there is mandatory to use vacuum filling - pump and refill/ But is it possible to do without this tools (compressor, vacuum set etc)? I removed hose from radiator (in fact i pull out coolat temperature sensor at radiator outlet, because hose stucks) and I was able to flush only 3.5litres of 10l in total. So is any trick how to pump out main part of coolant?
Next problem is to bleed system, despite fact that highest point in system is return hose to coolant reservoir - it should be selfbleeding. But selfbleeding takes time and needs opened valves and all lines in system, which is achieved when temperature of engine is at operating range -> but until it achieves it, air capsules/pockets can cause local overheat and damage.... I discover in diagnostics VCDS in Adaptation some entry related to valves, and also in Basic Setting which should open the valves also below operating temperature (allow to purge air pockets before engine heats up) https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/25738/ ... so does anybode say more to this or how to replace as much as possible coolant without risk at home ?
The TDI EA288 184 cooling system is rather 'complicated' with 3x coolant pumps, (1x electro/mechanical & 2xelectro) 4 circuits, and many one way valves.in service manual for EA888 (1.8tsi, 2.0tsi) and also for diesel EA288 there is mandatory to use vacuum filling - pump and refill/ But is it possible to do without this tools (compressor, vacuum set etc)? I removed hose from radiator (in fact i pull out coolat temperature sensor at radiator outlet, because hose stucks) and I was able to flush only 3.5litres of 10l in total. So is any trick how to pump out main part of coolant?
Next problem is to bleed system, despite fact that highest point in system is return hose to coolant reservoir - it should be selfbleeding. But selfbleeding takes time and needs opened valves and all lines in system, which is achieved when temperature of engine is at operating range -> but until it achieves it, air capsules/pockets can cause local overheat and damage.... I discover in diagnostics VCDS in Adaptation some entry related to valves, and also in Basic Setting which should open the valves also below operating temperature (allow to purge air pockets before engine heats up) https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/25738/ ... so does anybode say more to this or how to replace as much as possible coolant without risk at home ?
See posts #6 and #7 in this discussion thread.What purpose does it serve at all ? Restricting the flow ?
If they've gone in, they'll come outSome of the expansion tanks in VW’s are double walled and the bag is in the cavity between the two walls making it impossible to remove it, so replacement of the expansion tank would be necessary if an owner wanted to remove the bag.
Yes if the silicate is just in a soft pouch or the original mesh tubes, not so I'd think that if it is in the later double skinned reservoir, that will be a different story.If they've gone in, they'll come out
Double skinned yes, but surely that second skin isn't sealed, and the silica bag is still open to the rest of the system. The bags can't go in before they plastic weld the reservoir together, sealing it in position, surely??? I was lucky, I could get mine out with my fingersYes if the silicate is just in a soft pouch or the original mesh tubes, not so I'd think that if it is in the later double skinned reservoir, that will be a different story.
Double skinned yes, but surely that second skin isn't sealed, and the silica bag is still open to the rest of the system. The bags can't go in before they plastic weld the reservoir together, sealing it in position, surely??? I was lucky, I could get mine out with my fingers