what have you done to your car today ?

[Yellow fr]

Don't get me started - none of the bolts had been cleaned and there wasn't even a sniff of copper slip. The rear bush bolt made the same kind of noise when that let go too, so they must have got the rattle gun on there super tight. Both the arms are out now though, so I'm going to Hammerite the one that's not new and then get to putting the bushes in. I'm wondering whether it's tempting fate to have a go at the dogbone - I took the undertray off so I could get at the front bolts, so why not...

Having trouble with the ball joints though. I really want to change these, but I'm not sure if I can get these off without undoing the CV bolt, which means I'll need a new one. Is there a way of doing this without having to undo that? I'm guessing I need to get an allen key or something in the top of it?

You can change them without undoing the cv joint bolt just undo the nut on the ball joint clean the threads spray with wd40 or drop off oil on it then undo it then the three nuts and bolts on the lower arm then if you have a ball joint splitter to split the ball joint have fun


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[Sl1ced]

Cleaned my pick up pipe today! Apart from 23 sump bolts and my gasket sealer tube exploding in my hands and covering me in silicone it went well. After changing my dogbone a few weeks ago I’ve got to wondering if I should do the other 2 mounts too? They seem really expensive


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[g60stu]

Personally I would map before fuel pump. But at a mapper with pumps available. Then if yours is underperforming you can swap one out and carry on the mapping session.
Save you a bundle if it’s still up to the job.
FMIC definitely a good idea. Stops heat soak becoming a thing.
Over size TIP from Badger5 helps with gains too.
Lastly. Mapping is great.
Any gains are usually felt.
Even 25 gee gees makes a difference and more torque is always welcome.
My car runs without catch can and I have zero problems.
Silicone pipes aren’t necessary tbh unless you have a tear.
If you do change them over, buy Murray clamps to hold it all together properly.


Badger5 Custom Map + TIP,
3”Custom exhaust, FMIC, Bosh 550’s, BC Coilovers, ARB’s +loads more.

Thanks for the wisdom @Sparkie
Good to hear you aren’t running a catch can and I’m sure your car gets a good work out.
I might just go for an airtec FMIC and then get booked in at Badger5. I’ve got the B5 TIP and d/p and exhaust already. I’m not chasing big numbers, just want to give the car a bit more punch.

 

[Sparkie]

Thanks for the wisdom @Sparkie
Good to hear you aren’t running a catch can and I’m sure your car gets a good work out.
I might just go for an airtec FMIC and then get booked in at Badger5. I’ve got the B5 TIP and d/p and exhaust already. I’m not chasing big numbers, just want to give the car a bit more punch.

Certainly get more punch. Pay the extra 50 quid or what ever and have a custom mapping session. Then if fuel pump is holding it back you can discuss with Bill etc and slam one in then get back to the rolling road for excellent figures. Think you’ll be pretty chuffed.


Badger5 Custom Map + TIP,
3”Custom exhaust, FMIC, Bosh 550’s, BC Coilovers, ARB’s +loads more.

 

[iammooks]

You can change them without undoing the cv joint bolt just undo the nut on the ball joint clean the threads spray with wd40 or drop off oil on it then undo it then the three nuts and bolts on the lower arm then if you have a ball joint splitter to split the ball joint have fun


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That's what I thought - only on the offside, the nut on the top just turns. In the end, it's not going to hurt if I just hacksaw it off, but I feel like I've been doing that a bit too much on this car. I'll give the nearside a go tomorrow and see if that's any different. I've heard some people say that if you put a jack underneath the ball joint, it'll stop it from spinning, so I might give that a go.

The front bush on the original wishbone is giving me grief. It's stripped the threads on my homemade bushing press and I've been whacking it with a hammer and a 1/2" extender and it's just not going. It's weird because it's just rubber with a metal sleeve, so once it's moving, it should just push out. This job was never going to be easy, but at least it feels like I've done the hardest part.

 

[Sl1ced]

[mention]Thai-wronghorse [/mention] you got any motor mounts in good nick?


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[Thai-wronghorse]

Yes mate, are you after both sides?

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[MoToJoJo]

That's what I thought - only on the offside, the nut on the top just turns. In the end, it's not going to hurt if I just hacksaw it off, but I feel like I've been doing that a bit too much on this car. I'll give the nearside a go tomorrow and see if that's any different. I've heard some people say that if you put a jack underneath the ball joint, it'll stop it from spinning, so I might give that a go.

The front bush on the original wishbone is giving me grief. It's stripped the threads on my homemade bushing press and I've been whacking it with a hammer and a 1/2" extender and it's just not going. It's weird because it's just rubber with a metal sleeve, so once it's moving, it should just push out. This job was never going to be easy, but at least it feels like I've done the hardest part.

Bush? Kill it with fire (heat may be the solution if it’s being a PITA). As for the balljoint, I find getting the driveshaft out is actually the easiest part of the whole job but ymmv

I’d also recommend chasing out the bolt holes in the subframe before putting it all back together, just for peace of mind

 

[iammooks]

Bush? Kill it with fire (heat may be the solution if it’s being a PITA). As for the balljoint, I find getting the driveshaft out is actually the easiest part of the whole job but ymmv

I’d also recommend chasing out the bolt holes in the subframe before putting it all back together, just for peace of mind

It seems that once you get past a certain point pressing the bushes out, they expand a bit and it's easier getting them out. Seems weird that part was harder than the rear bushes.

Everything's out now though. A little bit of fire was involved - seemed rude not to. Tomorrow it's going to be cleaning up the wishbone and spraying it, then putting the bushes in.

Good idea to chase the subframe threads - I'll lightly screw the new bolt on to get any gunk and rust out. I'll definitely treat them better than the garage did - but only if the subframe doesn't give me any trouble when I try to put the polybush in the dogbone. I've got no idea what I'm supposed to do if that bolt snaps. Pretty sure it'd involve torching the car and pushing it off a cliff.


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[MoToJoJo]

I’d use the old bolts to chase out the threads, just spray loads of WD40
As for dogbone... treat like the wishbone ones, maybe a few love taps to knock loose corrosion, heat if necessary.

Pushing it off a cliff? Good way to improve your 0-60 time

 

[Rich.T]

The moisture simply isnt there with the PCV set up installed, using the catch can set up creates the moisture. cant remember why but saw a massive in thread on vwvortex about it. People say if its a daily or sits outside in the winter then not to bother

Been pondering on this.
Looking for a drain tap to fit to it to make life easier. Its a pita to get off with all the other furniture in the way.
And may convert it back later this year.
Will see what it's like when the weather changes.

 

[Sl1ced]

I’d use the old bolts to chase out the threads, just spray loads of WD40
As for dogbone... treat like the wishbone ones, maybe a few love taps to knock loose corrosion, heat if necessary.

Pushing it off a cliff? Good way to improve your 0-60 time

Mine is an 02 AUQ and I was lucky. My dogbone bolts come loose with no soaking at all. I was relieved


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[Sl1ced]

Been pondering on this.
Looking for a drain tap to fit to it to make life easier. Its a pita to get off with all the other furniture in the way.
And may convert it back later this year.
Will see what it's like when the weather changes.

I remember us speaking about this. I have some parts inbound to try. I don’t want to have to put the vacuum mess back in


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[iammooks]

Mine is an 02 AUQ and I was lucky. My dogbone bolts come loose with no soaking at all. I was relieved


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I've always had the undertray on, other than a few weeks when it got ripped off driving through a ford. Hopefully that's protected it from salt and all the things that would make it harder to take off.

Did you undo the gearbox side or the subframe side first? I'm my mind, I'm always conscious of bolts being under load and that's the reason they snap. Given that the subframe side is only supposed to be tightened to 20Nm, I can't see why it would be that bad, as long as the bolt isn't fused to the dogbone.


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[Sl1ced]

I've always had the undertray on, other than a few weeks when it got ripped off driving through a ford. Hopefully that's protected it from salt and all the things that would make it harder to take off.

Did you undo the gearbox side or the subframe side first? I'm my mind, I'm always conscious of bolts being under load and that's the reason they snap. Given that the subframe side is only supposed to be tightened to 20Nm, I can't see why it would be that bad, as long as the bolt isn't fused to the dogbone.


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I undid th box first. Me gearbox did not move at all . I put a Jack under it and just lifted enough to make contact plus 2-3mm. It shouldn’t move when you undo it but I wanted to make sure. All the bolts came straight out no problems


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[supersticky]

Why do people change their dog bone thing?

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[Sl1ced]

Why do people change their dog bone thing?

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The bushes wear out over time. I could move mine back and forth the new one is much more secure


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[Rich.T]

I remember us speaking about this. I have some parts inbound to try. I don’t want to have to put the vacuum mess back in


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Whats your plan to avoid the constant draining?

 

[Sl1ced]

Whats your plan to avoid the constant draining?

I’ve ordered a micro ball valve. I’m going to attempt to drill tap and install this on the bottom of the tank


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[iammooks]

Why do people change their dog bone thing?

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It reduces engine and gearbox movement, which means you get less chatter on hard acceleration, and it stops things moving around in general. I've heard some people describe it as one of the most effective mods you can do. I think it's just an all round tighter, more responsive drive.

Not that I know - I haven't got them in yet!

I bought the red Powerflex diesel bushes, as I've got a diesel engine, but I've heard some people with petrol engines use the diesel ones because they're less harsh.

There's a video on YouTube I think by Humble Mechanic where he sticks a GoPro under the car so you can see just how much the gearbox moves and how much work they actually do - I'll try and dig it out.


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