Need help on a mk3 ST 184 dsg FL

[bigbadjay]

This old face might be returning to the fold!

My mk2 was written off over a year ago and I've been making do with 1 car for now.

Bad thing is I've never bought used, but as it'll be a work horse/daily I'm not too fussed.
A silver FR ST 184 dsg with pan roof and heated seats/winter pack and camera. I've seen one on eBay for ???? around 75k miles and a bit rough round the edges (aftermarket wheels/some minor scuffs/tow eye missing).
17 plate FL. It was used as a fleet car by 1 driver and is owned by a company. 5 services by SEAT apart from last 2.
To me, as a used car they just make sense. I want a silver because of my job (needs to be a conspicuous color) and imo it shows the lines off pretty nice.

They are pretty desperate to sell probably need cash flow. I've asked for service records and further info on spec. The car is about 2.5 hours drive away

Now a favor please chaps, if you could kindly answer me some queries.

-Any red flags with this body shape and engine? (Common issues/recalls/signs of abuse)
-what services will be required at 80k
-do they have ambient lighting in doors as standard?
-which is the best remap (JOKE, I KNOW WHERE SEARCH IS!!!) I will be doing this 100% though plus other nice little mods like cupra tailgate retrofit, skirts/wheels and whatever else I find on here.

I can post the listing but don't wanna be seen as advertising it. CHEERS IN ADVANCE.

 

[Speedbird]

I have a FR ST 184 but mine is manual instead of DSG.

Servicing wise it should be serviced annually or every 12,000 miles. Cam belt isn't due until 5 years old but I'm unsure on mileage, I have a feeling it's 60k miles, so you might want to check that has been done.

In my experience, the engine is a peach and its a great all round car. Quick, economical, cheap to run. For a remap I wouldn't look anywhere else other than Revo because of the R&D they put into their maps. If it hasn't already been removed, you want to remove the bag of silica in the coolant expansion tank. They have a habit of splitting and blocking heater matrixes.

Just my two pence worth, £9500 seems a little expensive for a Leon FR with that mileage. Especially if it's a bit tatty. I was trying to sell mine for the same price with far less mileage, only difference it is a manual and mint.

 

[bigbadjay]

Cheers for that.
On the heater matrix is there a quick way to check if it’s split already or if it’s been removed?

They haven’t delivered any goods in terms of service history yet. Is it a done thing to ring dealers to find out?

If I’m honest I’d probably offer for it not just for condition, mainly as it was a fleet car it might as well been a lease

 

[black_sheep]

The maintenance schedules for the car can be found here:

Leon Mk3 Official Seat Workshop Manuals Link

Guide now located in the new resources section of the site https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/resources/leon-mk3-official-seat-workshop-manuals-link.24/

www.seatcupra.net

If a fleet car, it’s probably been on long-life servicing up to 2 yrs/30000km (18750 miles).

Cam belt is every 210000km (c131k miles). 5 yrs life is UK only.

Will also need its 2nd brake fluid change at 5 yrs.

Other than that there is loads of out-of-phase maintenance on the MQB platform cars ie DSG service every 37,500 miles for 6 spd.

Just so you are aware, I had the heater matrix issue on my VRS with the same engine, but the silica bag was still intact. You can normally tell if the matrix is blocked if the two sides of the car are pumping out wildly different temps or the heater output isn’t that great when car is up to temp and heater on max.

 

[bigbadjay]

Brill that will be my first test on seeing one thanks for that. And doing a bit of reading up just now about that issue. Sounds like components might need a “dunk” of silica bag now and again if engine inherently runs hot due to diminishing silica in the coolant. (Dunk as in teabag lol)

The fleet manager must have missed a trick as it’s been on fixed servicing (7 services). Last 2 were 3rd party garage I’d be interested to know if they checked the cam belt for wear as per SEAT recommendation.

 

[BillyCool]

I've got a 2014 184 ST FR 103,000. Bought it with 60,000 mile on it nearly 3 years ago.

To try and answer your questions:

-Any red flags with this body shape and engine? (Common issues/recalls/signs of abuse)
Not that I know of. Make sure it's got the Tech Pack though (I'm sure it will)
-what services will be required at 80k
Can't give you specifics but @black_sheep has given you the service docs
I had a Mk1 TDI Leon (220,000 miles) with average 20,000+ a year, so the 184 was a lovely upgrade. Mine uses a bit of oil (most seem to) and that is partly due to DPF regens. After some advice I took it off the LL (20,000) servicing. I now do my own oil and filter change every 5,000 miles and it seems to like that. My mechanic then does the regular and inspection services when needed.
-do they have ambient lighting in doors as standard?
Not sure. Mine has white that turn red in sports mode. I know the newer ones offer more colour options but can't give specifics.
-which is the best remap (JOKE, I KNOW WHERE SEARCH IS!!!) I will be doing this 100% though plus other nice little mods like cupra tailgate retrofit, skirts/wheels and whatever else I find on here.
I've got a TDI Tuning chip in mine. Only really kicks in around 3500 revs which gives a nice squirt of power. Means I can drive the car quite sensibly but if I need the extra va va voom it's there. I live rurally so lots of country roads where the quick blip around a tractor or something is nice. The MPG has improved as well. It did around 45-50mpg anyway but now it can do 50-55mpg just driving normally and recently on a motorway trip (250 miles each way) it averaged 68mpg (70mph most of the way). I now have an approx 220bhp car that does sensible mpg and for £30 tax a year. The insurance extra for the chip was £60.

In terms of what I've had done on the car:

New rear shocks
New water pump (known issue due to `electronic` pump failure) - you can now get a revised pump without the stupid widget.
New cam belt @ 98,000 miles (only because the water pump was being done)
New thermostat (belts and braces due to overheat caused by water pump)
New thermostat housing (known to crack and leak so may as well get it done when t/stat changed - it's an @RSE to change/access)
New heater matrix - as previous posts above and read the thread below. I bought mine from Europe for €80 (all UK stock sold out - wonder why). Took me about 3 hours to fit and that involved some faffing.

No heat from vents

You might have an air lock or another reason as it sounds like warm/hot coolant is not getting into the matrix. One way to check is test the temp of the 2 pipes in/out of the matrix and see. The IN pipe should be hot and the OUT pipe not as much (assuming you have the heating on). Theoretically...

www.seatcupra.net

New expansion tank - due to the silicant bag issues, for £25 and 10 mins of my time I fitted a new one without the bag.

Ref the whole heater matrix thing. Lack of hot air in the cabin (warm passenger, cooler on drivers side) is a sign of a blocked matrix. Also with the TDI you'll get coolant overheat during/after a DPF regen and it squirts water/steam out from the relief valve under the expansion tank lid. You are unlikely to notice this. The system has to cool down before the levels drop, so when you start it up next day you get a low coolant warning which makes you think it's leaked overnight.

The whole point of the `tea bag` was that the cooling system has more aluminium elements to it. VAG wanted a coolant for life (part of that `servicing costs you less Mr Fleet Manager' approach). As the coolant loses it's magical powers over time, they decided to add the teabag to top it up. However, the bag splits and sends goopy gunk around your very tight and narrow coolant system. Add in some casting sand - well , you know the rest.

Of course, VAG could just do what we used to do and recommend a coolant change every 3/4/5 years or whatever. My car is now sans teabag and I'll just get the coolant changed in 2 years time, like we used to do in the good old days.

Now - that sounds like a long list but I do love the car. It's nice to drive, comfy, responsive and as someone who's never had anything posher, I really like it. You can literally plod around in it but when you put your foot down, it goes.

My friend has the 150bhp unit in his Octavia and that still pulls nicely but not like the 184. The 184 also has bigger brakes, independant rear supsension and from what I've read, possibly a slightly beefier turbo (I could be wrong). Think the clutch might be different as well. This is all stuff I've read elsewhere.

Either way, the 184 is a great car. I like the compact estate. It's the same chassis as the hatch and only something like 28cm longer.

As for the one you are looking at, it sounds a tad over £. 184's are harder to find though. I would say that if it doesn't feel right, don't buy it. I waited 4 months to get mine.

I wrote an essay. Sorry.

 

[Shaady]

I think most questions have been answered but I agree with the other posts that mention the price is a bit steep.

I was offered 10K for my 2016 about 1.5 years ago and it has done way less mileage then that

 

[Woody_72]

I picked mine up for £10.5K at 4 years old with 32,000 miles so I think you have some room for negotiation.

 

[bigbadjay]

I've got a 2014 184 ST FR 103,000. Bought it with 60,000 mile on it nearly 3 years ago.

To try and answer your questions:

-Any red flags with this body shape and engine? (Common issues/recalls/signs of abuse)
Not that I know of. Make sure it's got the Tech Pack though (I'm sure it will)
-what services will be required at 80k
Can't give you specifics but @black_sheep has given you the service docs
I had a Mk1 TDI Leon (220,000 miles) with average 20,000+ a year, so the 184 was a lovely upgrade. Mine uses a bit of oil (most seem to) and that is partly due to DPF regens. After some advice I took it off the LL (20,000) servicing. I now do my own oil and filter change every 5,000 miles and it seems to like that. My mechanic then does the regular and inspection services when needed.
-do they have ambient lighting in doors as standard?
Not sure. Mine has white that turn red in sports mode. I know the newer ones offer more colour options but can't give specifics.
-which is the best remap (JOKE, I KNOW WHERE SEARCH IS!!!) I will be doing this 100% though plus other nice little mods like cupra tailgate retrofit, skirts/wheels and whatever else I find on here.
I've got a TDI Tuning chip in mine. Only really kicks in around 3500 revs which gives a nice squirt of power. Means I can drive the car quick sensibly but if I need the extra va va voom it's there. I live rurally so lots of country roads where the quick blip around a tractor or something is nice. The MPG has improved as well. It did around 45-50mpg anyway but now it can do 50-55mpg just driving normally and recently on a motorway trip (250 miles each way) it averaged 68mpg (70mph most of the way). I now have an approx 220bhp car that does sensible mpg and for £30 tax a year. The insurance extra for the chip was £60.

In terms of what I've had done on the car:

New rear shocks
New water pump (known issue due to `electronic` pump failure) - you can now get a revised pump without the stupid widget.
New cam belt @ 98,000 miles (only because the water pump was being done)
New thermostat (belts and braces due to overheat caused by water pump)
New thermostat housing (known to crack and leak so may as well get it done when t/stat changed - it's an @RSE to change/access)
New heater matrix - as previous posts above and read the thread below. I bought mine from Europe for €80 (all UK stock sold out - wonder why). Took me about 3 hours to fit and that involved some faffing.

No heat from vents

You might have an air lock or another reason as it sounds like warm/hot coolant is not getting into the matrix. One way to check is test the temp of the 2 pipes in/out of the matrix and see. The IN pipe should be hot and the OUT pipe not as much (assuming you have the heating on). Theoretically...

www.seatcupra.net

New expansion tank - due to the silicant bag issues, for £25 and 10 mins of my time I fitted a new one without the bag.

Ref the whole heater matrix thing. Lack of hot air in the cabin (warm passenger, cooler on drivers side) is a sign of a blocked matrix. Also with the TDI you'll get coolant overheat during/after a DPF regen and it squirts water/steam out from the relief valve under the expansion tank lid. You are unlikely to notice this. The system has to cool down before the levels drop, so when you start it up next day you get a low coolant warning which makes you think it's leaked overnight.

The whole point of the `tea bag` was that the cooling system has more aluminium elements to it. VAG wanted a coolant for life (part of that `servicing costs you less Mr Fleet Manager' approach). As the coolant loses it's magical powers over time, they decided to add the teabag to top it up. However, the bag splits and sends goopy gunk around your very tight and narrow coolant system. Add in some casting sand - well , you know the rest.

Of course, VAG could just do what we used to do and recommend a coolant change every 3/4/5 years or whatever. My car is now sans teabag and I'll just get the coolant changed in 2 years time, like we used to do in the good old days.

Now - that sounds like a long list but I do love the car. It's nice to drive, comfy, responsive and as someone who's never had anything posher, I really like it. You can literally plod around in it but when you put your foot down, it goes.

My friend has the 150bhp unit in his Octavia and that still pulls nicely but not like the 184. The 184 also has bigger brakes, independant rear supsension and from what I've read, possibly a slightly beefier turbo (I could be wrong). Think the clutch might be different as well. This is all stuff I've read elsewhere.

Either way, the 184 is a great car. I like the compact estate. It's the same chassis as the hatch and only something like 28cm longer.

As for the one you are looking at, it sounds a tad over £. 184's are harder to find though. I would say that if it doesn't feel right, don't buy it. I waited 4 months to get mine.

I wrote an essay. Sorry.

Brilliant essay 10/10 cheers

 

[bigbadjay]

Just to ask if the ambient door lighting is standard?
I know I seems small thing but having it adds to the wow factor. I have a 520d m sport and it adds a massive element to interior design.

 

[bigbadjay]

Got him down to £8750. Unless there’s something I’m not happy with all agree that price. Hope to pick it up this week, didn’t want to risk money transfer not going through due to weekend.

I’ve ask him about ambient light and he doesn’t see any, pretty sure these were standard as I’ve checked the catalogue for that year????? Or can they be switched off?

 

[Woody_72]

Mine's supposed to have fancy interior lighting but I've never seen it. Maybe there's a knack to it I don't know ??‍.

 

[black_sheep]

There should be footwell lighting and ambient lighting in the doors on the FR.

@Woody_72 On the pre-FL models the ambient lighting strips change between white and red (sport driver mode selected) - the brightness is adjusted via the interior light settings if low or set to white they are very hard to see during daylight.

On the FL:

If you go to the infotainment screen there are a couple of places to look - my Cupra has the multi-coloured background lighting so may be slightly different on FR:

Vehicle >> Settings >> Light >> Interior Lighting

(This changes the light level/brightness on the switches, instruments on dash, infotainment screen)

Vehicle >> Settings >> Background Lighting

(This controls the colour, brightness of the footwell lighting and the door cards). Total sets both levels together or you can select one area (for different levels in each). You can also deactivate.

Screen looks like this:

 

[bigbadjay]

There should be footwell lighting and ambient lighting in the doors on the FR.

@Woody_72 On the pre-FL models the ambient lighting strips change between white and red (sport driver mode selected) - the brightness is adjusted via the interior light settings if low or set to white they are very hard to see during daylight.

On the FL:

If you go to the infotainment screen there are a couple of places to look - my Cupra has the multi-coloured background lighting so may be slightly different on FR:

Vehicle >> Settings >> Light >> Interior Lighting

(This changes the light level/brightness on the switches, instruments on dash, infotainment screen)

Vehicle >> Settings >> Background Lighting

(This controls the colour, brightness of the footwell lighting and the door cards). Total sets both levels together or you can select one area (for different levels in each). You can also deactivate.

Screen looks like this:

Cheers,
I think it’s a case of the seller not knowing anything about the car as it was a fleet car. There is a semi picture of the door interior just looks the same as any other FR with the slight recess/crease where the light should be.

Wish the car was closer to me!! I was tempted to buy parts before I get it ?

 

[bigbadjay]

Well chaps an update....
I went up to buy the car

After never even driving one before I’d say I’m satisfied especially this will be used as a work horse, relieving my 5 series from the miles.

First job will be to remove a dodgy sticker on the tailgate and get the pano roof looked at. Also to remove the silica bag in the coolant tank.

First drive impressions- rough ride (18’s), noisy (poor road conditions), slight soft under the pedal setting off, and the gear selector will take getting used to putting into reverse. I think it’s very well equipped and decent power level but not as responsive as my 520d Msport.

I didn’t notice at the time but the headlights have condensation. I’ve kind of fixed this already by keeping dipped beam on and removing the headlight covers ?

 

[MATT RILEY]

Believe it or not the roofs are a service item, so with a clean grease and drain clean I bet it will be ok. They are strong items.
18s are harsh/sporty true.
As for soft under the pedal, put the drive select on sport will sort that out and the steering too.
Oh and it's not a BMW so check your expectations!

Enjoy your new car!

 

[bigbadjay]

Cheers, I believe it’s over 200 quid for the service which the previous owner hadn’t had done hence the initial price drop. I might see if there is a DIY guide for this on YouTube (I’ve seen one on the seat service manuals but the drawings are complicated to decipher)

And yes I knew what I was expecting haha much better than my old mk2.

Slight issue possibly-
I’ve noticed a bit of a grumble from the engine at low RPM and it holds its revs high before coming to a stop. Might make a new thread after researching.

 

[SuperV8]

I've got a 2014 184 ST FR 103,000. Bought it with 60,000 mile on it nearly 3 years ago.

To try and answer your questions:

-Any red flags with this body shape and engine? (Common issues/recalls/signs of abuse)
Not that I know of. Make sure it's got the Tech Pack though (I'm sure it will)
-what services will be required at 80k
Can't give you specifics but @black_sheep has given you the service docs
I had a Mk1 TDI Leon (220,000 miles) with average 20,000+ a year, so the 184 was a lovely upgrade. Mine uses a bit of oil (most seem to) and that is partly due to DPF regens. After some advice I took it off the LL (20,000) servicing. I now do my own oil and filter change every 5,000 miles and it seems to like that. My mechanic then does the regular and inspection services when needed.
-do they have ambient lighting in doors as standard?
Not sure. Mine has white that turn red in sports mode. I know the newer ones offer more colour options but can't give specifics.
-which is the best remap (JOKE, I KNOW WHERE SEARCH IS!!!) I will be doing this 100% though plus other nice little mods like cupra tailgate retrofit, skirts/wheels and whatever else I find on here.
I've got a TDI Tuning chip in mine. Only really kicks in around 3500 revs which gives a nice squirt of power. Means I can drive the car quite sensibly but if I need the extra va va voom it's there. I live rurally so lots of country roads where the quick blip around a tractor or something is nice. The MPG has improved as well. It did around 45-50mpg anyway but now it can do 50-55mpg just driving normally and recently on a motorway trip (250 miles each way) it averaged 68mpg (70mph most of the way). I now have an approx 220bhp car that does sensible mpg and for £30 tax a year. The insurance extra for the chip was £60.

In terms of what I've had done on the car:

New rear shocks
New water pump (known issue due to `electronic` pump failure) - you can now get a revised pump without the stupid widget.
New cam belt @ 98,000 miles (only because the water pump was being done)
New thermostat (belts and braces due to overheat caused by water pump)
New thermostat housing (known to crack and leak so may as well get it done when t/stat changed - it's an @RSE to change/access)
New heater matrix - as previous posts above and read the thread below. I bought mine from Europe for €80 (all UK stock sold out - wonder why). Took me about 3 hours to fit and that involved some faffing.

No heat from vents

You might have an air lock or another reason as it sounds like warm/hot coolant is not getting into the matrix. One way to check is test the temp of the 2 pipes in/out of the matrix and see. The IN pipe should be hot and the OUT pipe not as much (assuming you have the heating on). Theoretically...

www.seatcupra.net

New expansion tank - due to the silicant bag issues, for £25 and 10 mins of my time I fitted a new one without the bag.

Ref the whole heater matrix thing. Lack of hot air in the cabin (warm passenger, cooler on drivers side) is a sign of a blocked matrix. Also with the TDI you'll get coolant overheat during/after a DPF regen and it squirts water/steam out from the relief valve under the expansion tank lid. You are unlikely to notice this. The system has to cool down before the levels drop, so when you start it up next day you get a low coolant warning which makes you think it's leaked overnight.

The whole point of the `tea bag` was that the cooling system has more aluminium elements to it. VAG wanted a coolant for life (part of that `servicing costs you less Mr Fleet Manager' approach). As the coolant loses it's magical powers over time, they decided to add the teabag to top it up. However, the bag splits and sends goopy gunk around your very tight and narrow coolant system. Add in some casting sand - well , you know the rest.

Of course, VAG could just do what we used to do and recommend a coolant change every 3/4/5 years or whatever. My car is now sans teabag and I'll just get the coolant changed in 2 years time, like we used to do in the good old days.

Now - that sounds like a long list but I do love the car. It's nice to drive, comfy, responsive and as someone who's never had anything posher, I really like it. You can literally plod around in it but when you put your foot down, it goes.

My friend has the 150bhp unit in his Octavia and that still pulls nicely but not like the 184. The 184 also has bigger brakes, independant rear supsension and from what I've read, possibly a slightly beefier turbo (I could be wrong). Think the clutch might be different as well. This is all stuff I've read elsewhere.

Either way, the 184 is a great car. I like the compact estate. It's the same chassis as the hatch and only something like 28cm longer.

As for the one you are looking at, it sounds a tad over £. 184's are harder to find though. I would say that if it doesn't feel right, don't buy it. I waited 4 months to get mine.

I wrote an essay. Sorry.

Also to add with the 184 differences:
184 has 5mm bigger dia shocks vs 150 - 54.6mm vs 49.6mm
And Alloy front uprights vs iron on 150
Different clutch - presume stronger? - still 240mm dia but LUK and PR code DK7 = 135KW
Bigger Turbo for CUNA/CUPA 184 engines
Different Exhaust

 

[BillyCool]

Also to add with the 184 differences:
184 has 5mm bigger dia shocks vs 150 - 54.6mm vs 49.6mm
And Alloy front uprights vs iron on 150
Different clutch - presume stronger? - still 240mm dia but LUK and PR code DK7 = 135KW
Bigger Turbo for CUNA/CUPA 184 engines
Different Exhaust

Thanks for that. Good to know.

 

[bigbadjay]

Quick update almost a week in.

Enjoying the car, put nearly 1K on it as a work horse and even a trip to IKEA today no issues and very practical.
Getting decent MPG if I’m honest over 50mpg very mixed driving, including idling because it’s so cold at night!

You lads have been spoiled with the standard sound system which is light years better than my 5 series....no distortion at any volume....and LOUD! slight rattles from the crap in the door pockets only.

Getting used to only having 6 gears over the beemers 8, feels much more natural, almost petrol like through the revs which is mucho enjoyable. LSD seems to work as you feel the power squirrel from side to side on damp roads. I’ve not fully committed to high speed cornering yet, being so cold, damp and a non-mainstream tyre brand setup (albeit brand new)
Pano roof seems to have fixed itself, closing first time each time now.

Not investigated the grumble on turning off the engine almost sounds asthmatic might need to check air intake.

I don’t really like how high the revs are held (1k) when coming to a stop before settling at around 750 at idle with the DSG. This and on setting off in forward or reverse which feels like a slight jump, kind of like an anti-stall system (eg Ford).

Only other negative is it feels and sounds like it rides on skateboard wheels ?

Bought a Bluetooth obd2 reader for a carista play on Sunday?