what have you done to your car today ?

[Manic172]

I rolled it ........

Well finally on the spit... now the fun starts with the wire wheels to remove all the sealer

 

[bruceR]

1st wash in 5 weeks


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[iammooks]

Im still using a scissor jack to get it on lowest setting on axle stands, PITA

I also have white exhaust vapor but only small and not dense, and once warm nothing. No clouds or puffs. Could even be condensation? My car reeks of fuel since i decatted it anyway so that could be to do with that. I dunno, i will still inspect the parts once its next up on ramps.

Im still struggling with WOT hesitation and a potential loss of power. But that could also just be due to my mods with no remap (yet)

just waiting for a gasket and im changing injector seals and cups. If that doesnt work, ill be officially stumped.

I forget - are you petrol or diesel?

I do need to get another jack, but I do most of my heavy lifting work at my parents' place, since they have a driveway - and they also have two jacks. I don't feel comfortable doing an oil change with the one that's in the boot though.

Given how dirty the EGR valve was, I'm guessing I've got other deposits of carbon all around the engine, so when I work up the courage I'll have another stab at taking off the manifold and cleaning that. I just don't fancy breaking any bolts.

Interesting you say about WOT - I only get hesitation when I'm in a low gear and don't shift up, say when I'm coming to some lights or a junction. I cleaned the MAF sensor with some Halfords contact cleaner, but it doesn't seem to have changed much. So many things it could be...


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[Yellow fr]

I rolled it ........ View attachment 14045 View attachment 14046 View attachment 14047

Well finally on the spit... now the fun starts with the wire wheels to remove all the sealer

Enjoy been there done that but worth the hard work but for me not the neck pain lol as car was on a ramp


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[BocaBill]

Had mine up on the stands to swap out a defective exhaust clamp where the OEM meets the catback, No longer leaks or blows!!

 

[Connor H]

I forget - are you petrol or diesel?

I do need to get another jack, but I do most of my heavy lifting work at my parents' place, since they have a driveway - and they also have two jacks. I don't feel comfortable doing an oil change with the one that's in the boot though.

Given how dirty the EGR valve was, I'm guessing I've got other deposits of carbon all around the engine, so when I work up the courage I'll have another stab at taking off the manifold and cleaning that. I just don't fancy breaking any bolts.

Interesting you say about WOT - I only get hesitation when I'm in a low gear and don't shift up, say when I'm coming to some lights or a junction. I cleaned the MAF sensor with some Halfords contact cleaner, but it doesn't seem to have changed much. So many things it could be...


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I get WOT dip in a few gears mostly 3rd/4th though. Spools and builds starts to go then big dip and almost feels like it doesnt come back as strong.

Ive so far:

Cleaned IAT
checked and cleaned MAF (didnt get inside housing though)
N249 delete
Checked intercooler pipework
Brake servo simplify (removed vac spray pump)
Checked DV and N75 hoses
Checked PCV system (although i replaced these pipes with OEM when I got the car in December)
Checked coilpacks just for shits
Double checked every clamp and bung ive fitted

Things yet to do:
Injector seals and cups
inlet mani gasket
Somehow check the exhaust manifold
Check the TIP down low as i moved it recently to the side a bit and it let out a strange hiss.(?)
Rocker cover gasket
Remap once i get some money thanks to this covid malarky
TB reset
smoke test

Theres more id like to do but funds are so low. I'd like to try a different N75 out of curiosity but other than if anyone has any other things to try im all ears

P.s im petrol

 

[JordanW93]

Gave her a quick wash while other half was at hosp


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[mty12345]

I get WOT dip in a few gears mostly 3rd/4th though. Spools and builds starts to go then big dip and almost feels like it doesnt come back as strong.

Ive so far:

Cleaned IAT
checked and cleaned MAF (didnt get inside housing though)
N249 delete
Checked intercooler pipework
Brake servo simplify (removed vac spray pump)
Checked DV and N75 hoses
Checked PCV system (although i replaced these pipes with OEM when I got the car in December)
Checked coilpacks just for shits
Double checked every clamp and bung ive fitted

Things yet to do:
Injector seals and cups
inlet mani gasket
Somehow check the exhaust manifold
Check the TIP down low as i moved it recently to the side a bit and it let out a strange hiss.(?)
Rocker cover gasket
Remap once i get some money thanks to this covid malarky
TB reset
smoke test

Theres more id like to do but funds are so low. I'd like to try a different N75 out of curiosity but other than if anyone has any other things to try im all ears

P.s im petrol

WOT is obviously when you need the most fuel, so if you're only getting hesitation and loss of power then, then i'd supect some sort of fueling issue.
I take it you're running her on 99 octane?

 

[Connor H]

WOT is obviously when you need the most fuel, so if you're only getting hesitation and loss of power then, then i'd supect some sort of fueling issue.
The only real way to tell what is going on is to run some logs with VCDS, and look to see if the fueling is managing to achieve what the ECU is asking for.

Ok interesting. Thanks for the help. Do you not think it’s anything boost related then?

I guess I can rule out vac leaks for the time being. Also changed my fuel filter the other week so that’s out too

 

[mty12345]

Ok interesting. Thanks for the help. Do you not think it’s anything boost related then?

I guess I can rule out vac leaks for the time being. Also changed my fuel filter the other week so that’s out too

It could still could be boost related, but seeing as by the sounds of it you've checked most if not all of the boost related pipes, then if I had to put my money on something i'd say it's possibly a lack of fuel. If the car is on it's original fuel pump then it could be struggling, but i'm definitely not suggesting you should change it atm.

The thing with these cars is that with them being turbocharged, the engines are pretty complicated compared to a N/A motor. You can spend a fortune and loads of time changing parts and still not get to the bottom of this kind of thing.
If you can find someone local who has VCDS and wouldn't mind doing some logs for you, then you will be able to see if the fueling is hitting the number requested and the same with the boost.
You will also be able to look and see if you have any knock, as if you do, the ECU will pull the boost and/or timing to protect the engine. That's why I was asking if you run it on V-power or tesco 99, as you'd be surprised how many people have been running 95-97 octane fuel and wondering why they get flatspots at WOT. Even on a standard Map you need 98 or above to run WOT without getting timing pull.

 

[Connor H]

It could still could be boost related, but seeing as by the sounds of it you've checked most if not all of the boost related pipes, then if I had to put my money on something i'd say it's possibly a lack of fuel. If the car is on it's original fuel pump then it could be struggling, but i'm definitely not suggesting you should change it atm.

The thing with these cars is that with them being turbocharged, the engines are pretty complicated compared to a N/A motor. You can spend a fortune and loads of time changing parts and still not get to the bottom of this kind of thing.
If you can find someone local who has VCDS and wouldn't mind doing some logs for you, then you will be able to see if the fueling is hitting the number requested and the same with the boost.
You will also be able to look and see if you have any knock, as if you do, the ECU will pull the boost and/or timing to protect the engine. That's why I was asking if you run it on V-power or tesco 99, as you'd be surprised how many people have been running 95-97 octane fuel and wondering why they get flatspots at WOT. Even on a standard Map you need 98 or above to run WOT without getting timing pull.

Always vpower when I can, only put a couple of 98octane tanks in since having it,

I’ll wager it’s the OG fuel pump on there, is it a big job to replace it?

Also what does knock mean? I’m a noob to the diagnostics readings completely. I have a basic cheapo reader (although today I figured out my MAF reads 4.25 gs at idle) but my local garage has vagcom, I’ll see if he will take me seriously enough to scan it as he seems to think it’s fine.

would the fact I have no map and a bunch of mods affect it to the point of my issue?

 

[mty12345]

Always vpower when I can, only put a couple of 98octane tanks in since having it,

I’ll wager it’s the OG fuel pump on there, is it a big job to replace it?

Also what does knock mean? I’m a noob to the diagnostics readings completely. I have a basic cheapo reader (although today I figured out my MAF reads 4.25 gs at idle) but my local garage has vagcom, I’ll see if he will take me seriously enough to scan it as he seems to think it’s fine.

would the fact I have no map and a bunch of mods affect it to the point of my issue?

Knock is when a proportion of the fuel/air mixture self-ignites, rather than burning in a controlled manner as the flame-front progresses through the cylinder. It creates a shock wave and a huge pressure spike that can damage and destroy engines. The 1.8t has knock sensors to detect it, and when it does it will retard the timing and/or reduce boost to protect the engine. The higher the octane, the more resistant a fuel is to knock happening.
The engine does the adjustment on the fly, but i'm pretty sure it also has an element 'long term trim' in regards to knock. I would just run it on 99 for a couple of weeks/tanks and see if the problem persists before you worry too much. Chances are the fuel in the tank could still be diluted with the lower octane fuel and/or the ECU is still running the timing slightly retarded atm. I know you said the other fuel was 98, but are you 100% sure about that as i'm not aware of a 98 octane being offered in the uk. Any standard fuel is only 95, and even texaco's 'super unleaded' is only 97 octane.

As for mods, it depends on what mods you have done really. Unless it's a big mod then most of the time the engine will adapt fine using the MAF and lambda readings.

The logs can only be run while you are out driving it. They are usually done running WOT from 2000rpm in 3rd gear all the way to the redline. Running them in lower gears is pretty pointless as the car gets through them too quick to see anything useful, and running up to the redline in 4th obviously takes you well into licence losing territory.

Changing the pump is easy, it's accessed from underneath the rear seats and just lifts out once you remove the locking ring. Like i say i'd rule out everything else first though, as chances are it'll be fine and you'll just be wasting your money mate.

 

[Connor H]

Knock is when a proportion of the fuel/air mixture self-ignites, rather than burning in a controlled manner as the flame-front progresses through the cylinder. It creates a shock wave and a huge pressure spike that can damage and destroy engines. The 1.8t has knock sensors to detect it, and when it does it will retard the timing and/or reduce boost to protect the engine. The higher the octane, the more resistant a fuel is to knock happening.
The engine does the adjustment on the fly, but i'm pretty sure it also has an element 'long term trim' in regards to knock. I would just run it on 99 for a couple of weeks/tanks and see if the problem persists before you worry too much. Chances are the fuel in the tank could still be diluted with the lower octane fuel and/or the ECU is still running the timing slightly retarded atm. I know you said the other fuel was 98, but are you 100% sure about that as i'm not aware of a 98 octane being offered in the uk. Any standard fuel is only 95, and even texaco's 'super unleaded' is only 97 octane.

As for mods, it depends on what mods you have done really. Unless it's a big mod then most of the time the engine will adapt fine using the MAF and lambda readings.

The logs can only be run while you are out driving it. They are usually done running WOT from 2000rpm in 3rd gear all the way to the redline. Running them in lower gears is pretty pointless as the car gets through them too quick to see anything useful, and running up to the redline in 4th obviously takes you well into licence losing territory.

Changing the pump is easy, it's accessed from underneath the rear seats and just lifts out once you remove the locking ring. Like i say i'd rule out everything else first though, as chances are it'll be fine and you'll just be wasting your money mate.

Cheers for explaining that! A few more things just made a bit more sense (knock sensors). My last two or three tanks have been Vpower but i will keep that in mind too as its entirely possible. And yes you're right not sure where i got 98octane from lol.

Mods are decat turbo back (with o2 spacer), TIP, filter and few deletes but i wouldnt have thought they'd cause this issue.

It may be my imagination but i feel like my exhaust is louder now than when i got it (it ran better then, about a month ago), but im not sure if that was just bad timing with the new exhaust 'bedding in' so to speak and this issue cropping up or if they're related. I originally thought it was blowing somewhere due to the loss in power and increase in sound, still not convinced it isnt but if it is that then it'll be in the manifold area as i inspected every weld, join and bolt.

 

[mty12345]

Cheers for explaining that! A few more things just made a bit more sense (knock sensors). My last two or three tanks have been Vpower but i will keep that in mind too as its entirely possible. And yes you're right not sure where i got 98octane from lol.

Mods are decat turbo back (with o2 spacer), TIP, filter and few deletes but i wouldnt have thought they'd cause this issue.

It may be my imagination but i feel like my exhaust is louder now than when i got it (it ran better then, about a month ago), but im not sure if that was just bad timing with the new exhaust 'bedding in' so to speak and this issue cropping up or if they're related. I originally thought it was blowing somewhere due to the loss in power and increase in sound, still not convinced it isnt but if it is that then it'll be in the manifold area as i inspected every weld, join and bolt.

No worries mate. Glad to be of help. I guess it's possible that the de-cat could affect it slightly. Maybe at WOT the turbo is spooling up slighty faster than the ECU is expecting due to the reduced back pressure.?... I guess that could potentially cause the ecu to make a slight adjustment to the boost. I don't know for sure one way or the other tbh, but if so then it might just need a remap.

 

[Connor H]

No worries mate. Glad to be of help. I guess it's possible that the de-cat could affect it slightly. Maybe at WOT the turbo is spooling up slighty faster than the ECU is expecting due to the reduced back pressure.?... I guess that could potentially cause the ecu to make a slight adjustment to the boost. I don't know for sure one way or the other tbh, but if so then it might just need a remap.

Im going to do my injector seals, then once this gov scheme comes in maybe get a stage 1 map locally to see how it performs, then look into fuel pump if the problem persists. Game plan sorted! Thanks again matty.

 

[bruceR]

Spent 2hrs cleaning the interior - 5 weeks worth of dust & grit - looks spotless. Then spent an hour on the wife’s car interior, much easier with leather seats


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[martin j.]

Spent ages with G101 and a toothbrush cleaning all the green gum that accumulates in the window seals, the last Seat had this problem too, any solutions? Neighbour looked at as if I was daft working at the seals with a spray bottle and a brush.

 

[mty12345]

Spent ages with G101 and a toothbrush cleaning all the green gum that accumulates in the window seals, the last Seat had this problem too, any solutions? Neighbour looked at as if I was daft working at the seals with a spray bottle and a brush.

Did the same a couple of weeks back. No solutions that i know of, other than the toothbrush lol

 

[martin j.]

Ah well, at least I now know it’s not my fault

 

[Leon20vt4]

Finally did a thing today to the Cupra 4x4 should’ve been done months ago... was pretty easy too! Looks 10x better

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