2.0 TFSI Issues - help please

[Gex]

Hoping someone can shed some light on these issues I'm having with my Cupra K1

1. Keep getting a check engine light come up with error code P0441 so I replaced the N80 valve last weekend hoping to cure it but it's just come on again tonight! The original was goosed because I couldn't blow through it either direction. Any ideas?

2. The car idles at 500rpm (needle doesn't fluctuate) and I've noticed that it sounds like it has a slight pulse in the exhaust note and I can feel slight random engine vibrations whilst in the car, not too obsessive though. If I turn the heaters on this raises the RPM of the engine to about 700rpm which makes things more settled. Whilst driving it pulls strongly in all gears and gets up to temperature and stays there.

3. When letting off the accelerator with the car in gear (say second) if I watch the RPM needle it goes down in stages like down and stop and down and stop rather than smoothly as if the car doesn't have enough inertia to maintain a steady RPM decrease. I'm wondering if it could be a symptom of a SMF (not confirmed) and related to point 2 above?

It's overdue a major service so air/oil filter, oil and plugs will be getting done shortly although I don't think they will fix points 2 and 3.

Any help would be much appreciated

 

[boggle]

Hi
Your fault code could be a blocked carbon filter or more likely a split or blocked hose. Might be related to problem 3

Problem 2 could be as simple as plugs, coil packs, pcv or dv but could be a injector.

Do you have vcds?

 

[Gex]

Hi
Your fault code could be a blocked carbon filter or more likely a split or blocked hose. Might be related to problem 3

Problem 2 could be as simple as plugs, coil packs, pcv or dv but could be a injector.

Do you have vcds?

Thanks for getting back to me mate. When you say carbon filter are you talking about the charcoal canister or something different? Do you have a picture of it and the hoses I would need to check? How would I go about checking them?

I'll get it booked in for the major service next month which will replace the plugs. As far as I can see the PCV and DV are both the originals when the car was made - hopefully NOT an injector!

I don't have VCDS only a simple error code reader Could the throttle body need realigned?

 

[Dan FR]

1. Charcoal canister. Expensive part for what it is. Can be bypassed allowing the tank to vent to atmosphere to pinpoint fault (or permanently as I have done).
2. Car should not idle that low. Do you have an air leak somewhere? This is where proper data becomes useful, code readers alone are useless most of the time
3. Can you feel this or is it solely down to what you see on the clocks? I'd be inclined to say its a combination of the SMF and slack engine mounts, but not something I would look in to any further

 

[Gex]

1. Charcoal canister. Expensive part for what it is. Can be bypassed allowing the tank to vent to atmosphere to pinpoint fault (or permanently as I have done).
2. Car should not idle that low. Do you have an air leak somewhere? This is where proper data becomes useful, code readers alone are useless most of the time
3. Can you feel this or is it solely down to what you see on the clocks? I'd be inclined to say its a combination of the SMF and slack engine mounts, but not something I would look in to any further

1. I had feared you would say that, is there anything I can do to confirm it? Not quite sure how to pinpoint the fault and I don't want to bypass it.

2. That was my thoughts too, about 750rpm was what my previous VAG cars idled at. I don't have a clue where to start when checking for an air leak. I do have an ODB2 reader and Torque Pro which lets me monitor certain parameters but I'm not sure which one to check and what the correct reading should be.

3. You can feel it slightly in third when decelerating and it's quite jerky when in first or second gear at low RPM. I don't know if the car has a SMF but I thought it would explain the lower idle RPM and inability to maintain a steady engine inertia. The engine mounts appear normal though and the engine doesn't move excessively when idling atleast.

Thanks for the help!

 

[boggle]

Have you checked the mis fire counter in torque? If you have a misfire move the coil packs and the spark plugs about - see if the fault moves to other cylinders

To rule out the pcv take the oil cap off with the engine running if the engine goes lumpy that is fine

The diverter valve can be visibly inspected for tears and is worth changing for the latest version anyway as its stronger and holds more boost

 

[Gex]

Have you checked the mis fire counter in torque? If you have a misfire move the coil packs and the spark plugs about - see if the fault moves to other cylinders

To rule out the pcv take the oil cap off with the engine running if the engine goes lumpy that is fine

The diverter valve can be visibly inspected for tears and is worth changing for the latest version anyway as its stronger and holds more boost

I'll try the misfire counter in torque shortly and report back, fingers crossed!

Will also try what you said about taking the oil cap off whilst its running and report back to check the PCV which looks like it's never been replaced, sure I saw a date on it of 2008/9 last time.

Judging from the DV which I believe is at the front of the engine on the BWJ engine code it looks like mine has never been replaced and is held in by a plug and 3 bolts - I'll take a look at it this weekend to inspect it. Which is best revision to get D or G? I can't afford to replace it right now as I'm saving for a major service and then a timing belt and water pump so the list is getting bigger by the minute!

Again thanks for the help mate.

 

[Gex]

Just a quick update. Pulled the oil cap off with the engine running and it went really lumpy like it was going to stall. Is this normal? Cheers

 

[fozzybear]

if due a major service ..engine flush as can be temperamental if clogged up....the next thing is fuel filter on outside and under back drivers side....this was a problem on mine as was clogged enough to cause issue...the third could be coilpacks...these would bring on engine check light if just starting to go...check see if had replacement coils at any time..as seat replaced coils free if were found to be a certain code...bad supplier at one point lol...one of these might just hit it but could just be needs a damn good service ...lol oil filters if not done regular can cuase serious problems as only paper not metal and if neglected could kill engine...these engines are tough but are really sensitive and need care...

 

[Dan FR]

1. I had feared you would say that, is there anything I can do to confirm it? Not quite sure how to pinpoint the fault and I don't want to bypass it.

2. That was my thoughts too, about 750rpm was what my previous VAG cars idled at. I don't have a clue where to start when checking for an air leak. I do have an ODB2 reader and Torque Pro which lets me monitor certain parameters but I'm not sure which one to check and what the correct reading should be.

3. You can feel it slightly in third when decelerating and it's quite jerky when in first or second gear at low RPM. I don't know if the car has a SMF but I thought it would explain the lower idle RPM and inability to maintain a steady engine inertia. The engine mounts appear normal though and the engine doesn't move excessively when idling atleast.

Thanks for the help!

I would bypass it for a few weeks in order to confirm it personally. Otherwise get a new one.

If I remember later I'll check what mine idles at on a warm tickover with no load (lights, AC etc.)

The jerkiness and poor idle do point to either a duff sensor (MAF, lambda etc.) or some form of air leak. Long term fuel trims (accessible through VCDS) would give a better idea.

I'll try the misfire counter in torque shortly and report back, fingers crossed!

Will also try what you said about taking the oil cap off whilst its running and report back to check the PCV which looks like it's never been replaced, sure I saw a date on it of 2008/9 last time.

Judging from the DV which I believe is at the front of the engine on the BWJ engine code it looks like mine has never been replaced and is held in by a plug and 3 bolts - I'll take a look at it this weekend to inspect it. Which is best revision to get D or G? I can't afford to replace it right now as I'm saving for a major service and then a timing belt and water pump so the list is getting bigger by the minute!

Again thanks for the help mate.

Rev G is the better valve, it's around £40 from TPS. If it's split then get it replaced - a split DV causes the turbo to work substantially harder to try and maintain the level of performance. It's a 5 minute DIY job on a Cupra. PCV is similarly priced and also an easy DIY - common failure point which could explain some of your idle and drivability issues.

Just a quick update. Pulled the oil cap off with the engine running and it went really lumpy like it was going to stall. Is this normal? Cheers

That is very normal and hopefully indicates the PCV is ok. Other way to check is to remove the flexible U shaped plastic pipe connecting the PCV and inlet manifold from the inlet side - and try to blow down it (toward the PCV).... You should not be able to blow through it at all.... If you can you need a new PCV

 

[Dan FR]

if due a major service ..engine flush as can be temperamental if clogged up....the next thing is fuel filter on outside and under back drivers side....this was a problem on mine as was clogged enough to cause issue...the third could be coilpacks...these would bring on engine check light if just starting to go...check see if had replacement coils at any time..as seat replaced coils free if were found to be a certain code...bad supplier at one point lol...one of these might just hit it but could just be needs a damn good service ...lol oil filters if not done regular can cuase serious problems as only paper not metal and if neglected could kill engine...these engines are tough but are really sensitive and need care...

I'd never recommend an engine flush - a regularly serviced car does not need one.

Coilpacks only cause the EML to flash when there's a significant misfire and this would happen under load (full throttle) before starting at idle. It would also leave a fault code poiting to a misfire on a particular cylinder. The recall was a very limited number of early cars so its unlikely you'll get a new set for free

 

[Gex]

if due a major service ..engine flush as can be temperamental if clogged up....the next thing is fuel filter on outside and under back drivers side....this was a problem on mine as was clogged enough to cause issue...the third could be coilpacks...these would bring on engine check light if just starting to go...check see if had replacement coils at any time..as seat replaced coils free if were found to be a certain code...bad supplier at one point lol...one of these might just hit it but could just be needs a damn good service ...lol oil filters if not done regular can cuase serious problems as only paper not metal and if neglected could kill engine...these engines are tough but are really sensitive and need care...

Thanks for the response.

I'll be booking it in for a major service shortly so will report back. Hopefully it does make a difference as I don't know when the plugs were last changed. (I'm quite sceptical using engine flush as I've heard mixed reviews so not sure to get it or not) On my Golf 1.8T MK4 I checked the pickup pipe whilst dropping the oil - something I wont have the luxury of doing now as no ramp so don't really want any shite getting sucked in to the strainer.

When the EVAP Incorrect Flow Code P0441 came on 5 days ago I cleared and it hasn't come back on so hopefully it was a one off and doesn't reappear! I'll be filling up 3/4 of a tank on Wednesday so will see if that makes a difference.

I'll look at fuel filters if the service doesn't appear to have any effect.

I asked the local dealership on the weekend regarding the coilpacks and they've said my car wasn't affected (made in 2008, registered in 2009 but this might be a cop-out and they have also confirmed there are no outstanding recalls from what they can see on their systems. Do you happen know the part number of the coilpacks in question?

I've no idea when the oil and filter was last changed so again, this will be covered as part of the full service for piece of mind.

I would bypass it for a few weeks in order to confirm it personally. Otherwise get a new one.

If I remember later I'll check what mine idles at on a warm tickover with no load (lights, AC etc.)

The jerkiness and poor idle do point to either a duff sensor (MAF, lambda etc.) or some form of air leak. Long term fuel trims (accessible through VCDS) would give a better idea.



Rev G is the better valve, it's around £40 from TPS. If it's split then get it replaced - a split DV causes the turbo to work substantially harder to try and maintain the level of performance. It's a 5 minute DIY job on a Cupra. PCV is similarly priced and also an easy DIY - common failure point which could explain some of your idle and drivability issues.



That is very normal and hopefully indicates the PCV is ok. Other way to check is to remove the flexible U shaped plastic pipe connecting the PCV and inlet manifold from the inlet side - and try to blow down it (toward the PCV).... You should not be able to blow through it at all.... If you can you need a new PCV

Thanks for the follow up.

Like I mentioned above it's been 5 days since the P0441 code made a re-appearance so fingers crossed it was just a blip and doesn't come back on. I'll be filling up 3/4 of a tank on Wednesday which might prompt it to come back on if something is amiss (increased fumes).

I checked the idle using Torque Pro lastnight and it was saying 750rpm but the dash rpm was saying 500rpm Could my dials could be out (how is this even possible) and would a needle sweep re-align them or is that just for cosmetics?

I need to find someone local (Newcastle upon Tyne) who has VCDS and knows what they're doing lol to give it a good look over. Torque Pro was saying vacuum was 23 on idle IIRC.

I have noticed when giving it the beans it has a moment of hesitation/flat spot around 4-5k rpm then suddenly gets another lease of life - could this be the DV leaking? (very short high pitched sound when letting off but doesn't sound like the usual chatter)

When I've next got the airbox off I'll try blow down the pipe towards the PCV like you say from the inlet manifold side and report back.