I've not really had a chance to find out yet, only used the car to go to the gym and back since changing the filter. The induction noise does sound a little cleaner though, think the Jetex was past its' best. Hopefully I'll get time to get the car out for a proper run this week.
-
Welcome to our new sponsor Lecatona, a brand dedicated to enhancing performance for VAG group sports cars, including SEAT, Audi, Volkswagen and Škoda. Specializing in High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) upgrades.
8bit's Mk1 Leon Cupra R. Scarlett - as in Johansson...
- Thread starter 8bit
- Start date
Question for anyone subscribed to my thread. Anyone using or used a manual boost controller? Bit concerned about the 27psi peak at about 3800rpm. I can't see it's doing any good either cost peak torque isn't until about 4500rpm and peak power near 6k. All that boost that early on can't be doing the rods any good.
Any experiences/thoughts welcome
Any experiences/thoughts welcome
Did but took it off. I kept hitting limp mode with the forge MBC but I really do have a sneaky suspicion that it was faulty. When it worked though it lurked brilliantly. Ironed out and spikes and the car held boost for longer.
There's several ways to plumb them in but I went for the option of having it run inline with the n75. This means you let the n75 do it's job and the mbc helps with the quick spikes which they can't handle all the time.
Never bothered to refit another. Personally if I were to do it again I'd probably go the electronic boost controller route. They are deemed to be more stable.
There's several ways to plumb them in but I went for the option of having it run inline with the n75. This means you let the n75 do it's job and the mbc helps with the quick spikes which they can't handle all the time.
Never bothered to refit another. Personally if I were to do it again I'd probably go the electronic boost controller route. They are deemed to be more stable.
Had one fitted to mine when I had spikes with the wrong actuator on. Worked fantastically and that was without the N75 plumbed in. I would use it as El used his.
I have mine still Niall that I no longer use. Can have it for £20, ****** one or something I got from Wallace.
I have mine still Niall that I no longer use. Can have it for £20, ****** one or something I got from Wallace.
Nice one, cheers guys.
@EL, when you said you got limp, was that maybe because the MBC was set to only allow a lower boost than the map was requesting? I read that you need to log request boost and set the MBC a touch higher than that, so the car doesn't think there's a boost leak.
@Josh, I thought that bypassing the N75 meant the car would end up making whatever boost the MBC is set to all the time the throttle is any more than slightly open?
@EL, when you said you got limp, was that maybe because the MBC was set to only allow a lower boost than the map was requesting? I read that you need to log request boost and set the MBC a touch higher than that, so the car doesn't think there's a boost leak.
@Josh, I thought that bypassing the N75 meant the car would end up making whatever boost the MBC is set to all the time the throttle is any more than slightly open?
It could have been mate. I didn't actually know that's how it was meant to be set up. Perhaps I should have played around with it a bit more. Mine was hitting limp when I was hitting part throttle which is why I was thinking the MBC itself was a bit messed up. Never happened on full throttle.
I have to admit, I did prefer how the car held the power with the MBC on. I may decide to look back into it and give it another go. You can do it first though and let me know how you get on
Nice one, thanks Bill.
Spent some time last night looking over the various logs Yohan's done for me since I got the car mapped. Only on one log has the boost hit 1.54 bar (2540mbar absolute pressure, the maximum the MAP can handle). Not sure what happened on the dyno last time as the boost there showed 27 psi, or 1.86 bar. Maybe the pressure sensor wasn't calibrated correctly or something, either that or I had a faulty MAP sensor.
Anyway, I'm going to install a boost gauge to start with rather than an MBC, that way I'll be able to see if I really need to cap boost or not. 27psi seems like a very high spike for a stage 1 map, even Revo. Decided on a STACK boost gauge:
Might put a similar oil pressure gauge in while I'm at it.
With any luck I'll get the front bumper refitted this weekend, and hopefully the rear brake discs and pads changed too.
Aye, I keep tabs on it using Torque app on my phone but I don't trust that now - it often says I'm hitting 1.8 bar but it's supposedly just reading from the MAP sensor through ODB2 - if that can only read 1.54 bar then Torque is getting it wrong somehow!
Replaced that a few months back with the latest (at the time) part number. As I said though, I only saw the 27psi spike on the dyno, none of the logs I've done since fitting that N75 go that high, highest is about 23psi.
Will get boost gauge fitted and keep an eye on that for a bit, if I do see high spikes I can always try the old N75 again, only reason I replaced it was to try and stop the fluttering sound, which it didn't.
Will get boost gauge fitted and keep an eye on that for a bit, if I do see high spikes I can always try the old N75 again, only reason I replaced it was to try and stop the fluttering sound, which it didn't.
Think demon tweeks own website had them a little cheaper than that? No, haven't got round to doing the aerial yet but have that link saved, cheers
Made a little bit of progress lately, managed to get the rear discs and pads changed... on the driver's side only. Ran out of time and daylight that evening so went back to do the passenger side a couple of evenings later and it was a total 'mare. Couldn't get the disc retaining screw out, and the guide pin in the carrier doesn't move.
Planned on drilling out the screw and removing, cleaning and refitting the guide pin at the weekend past there so went to B&Q to get metal drill bits and some vise-grips. Went to stash them in the boot and there's the round cover and center spindle out of the spare wheel well and toolkit. Realised the locking wheel nut adaptor was missing. Must have driven off with it still in the wheel after I abandoned changing the passenger side brakes. Balls.
So waiting on replacement locking nut adaptors from SEAT. Ordered on Sat, hopefully they'll be here tomorrow. Bought two cos if I have a spare then sods law I won't lose the other one
Just hope my pathetic 12v drill is enough to take the head off the screw, mind you the impact driver and me with a manual screwdriver was chewing it up pretty easily. Think it would be stronger if it was made out of the insides of a Crunchie bar.Thanks I'll have a look on there website.
I've done the same thing before with the locking nut. The cat didn't come near me for a week.
Yeah I spent most of last weekend sulking!
So got the rear near-side brakes sorted the other night. Had to drill out the disc retaining screw which took a bit of time as my drill isn't really up to it but eventually the head came off the screw and I could get it off the hub. Had to pull out, clean up and re-grease the lower guide pin in the carrier as it wasn't moving at all but hopefully it'll all be OK now. Ended up taking a bit longer than hoped so by the time I was putting the carrier, caliper and wheel back on it was pretty much pitch dark. Changing brakes in the dark is no fun at all, don't try this at home, kids.
So at least that's done anyway, all four brakes working about as well as the can for now. Had the car for the first proper run since fitting the FMIC the other night too, holy crap it feels quick on a cool evening On rollers again next weekend so will see what gains the cooler brings to the numbers then, but on the basis of the butt-dyno it was well worth the effort.
So got the rear near-side brakes sorted the other night. Had to drill out the disc retaining screw which took a bit of time as my drill isn't really up to it but eventually the head came off the screw and I could get it off the hub. Had to pull out, clean up and re-grease the lower guide pin in the carrier as it wasn't moving at all but hopefully it'll all be OK now. Ended up taking a bit longer than hoped so by the time I was putting the carrier, caliper and wheel back on it was pretty much pitch dark. Changing brakes in the dark is no fun at all, don't try this at home, kids.
So at least that's done anyway, all four brakes working about as well as the can for now. Had the car for the first proper run since fitting the FMIC the other night too, holy crap it feels quick on a cool evening
On rollers again next weekend so will see what gains the cooler brings to the numbers then, but on the basis of the butt-dyno it was well worth the effort.antony-lcr
Guest
On the Leon's and mk4 golfs etc you can leave the carrier attached to do the rears. There is just enough room for the disc to come out. Good work though
Cheers, was quite chuffed by the time I'd finished Had a mate helping me with the fronts and a fair bit of advice from members off here on the rears.
I did try to get the old disc off on the driver's side without removing the carrier but it wasn't possible. I read that later mk1's have longer hub centers, I know some people have bother fitting spacers on the rears and I certainly couldn't get spacers on mine far enough to sit flush against the hub face.
I had to take the carrier off to sort out the seized guide pin on the passenger side anyway. Didn't actually check on the other side, the caliper to carrier bolts are single-use items so I'll get a couple more of those and take that side apart again to check them out.
Had a mate helping me with the fronts and a fair bit of advice from members off here on the rears.I did try to get the old disc off on the driver's side without removing the carrier but it wasn't possible. I read that later mk1's have longer hub centers, I know some people have bother fitting spacers on the rears and I certainly couldn't get spacers on mine far enough to sit flush against the hub face.
I had to take the carrier off to sort out the seized guide pin on the passenger side anyway. Didn't actually check on the other side, the caliper to carrier bolts are single-use items so I'll get a couple more of those and take that side apart again to check them out.
Oh, something else I noticed over the past couple of days. When maneuvering at low speed (parking etc.) I can hear a slight but noticeable grinding noise while turning the steering wheel. I'll need to try again properly but I think it's only there while actually turning the wheel, if I hold the wheel steady at any position or in a straight line it stops. There are no other untoward noises at all.
Had a quick search and looks like there are a few reasons for this. Anyone suggest the most likely things this could be?
Had a quick search and looks like there are a few reasons for this. Anyone suggest the most likely things this could be?
Similar threads
