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Faulty Electrics (immobiliser issue)
- Thread starter Bondiblu
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- electrics faulty immobiliser issue
The needles are definitely the trickiest bit about it. Did mine for the 2nd time yesterday ( first time was for the immobiliser 2 years ago, yesterday was to fix fuel and outside temp ). Wish I'd done the lot the first time.
It took me a few attempts to get the needles in the correct position when pushing them back on but got there in the end.
It took me a few attempts to get the needles in the correct position when pushing them back on but got there in the end.
Immobiliser problem thanks everyone!
So glad i found this forum and thread!
I am having the immobiliser problem and from reading your comments i can now pretty much narrow down what it is.
Also found the old "push your thumb on the speedo at about 120mph point" trick fantastic as i can now start the bugger every time.
Just wish i had known when i had to sit outside the petrol station swearing for 40 minutes the other day!!!
Am not really confident enough to fix it myself but at least i have a rough idea of what to tell the garage for a change rather than being just a woman at the mercy of money grabbing machanics!
Nicky
x
So glad i found this forum and thread!
I am having the immobiliser problem and from reading your comments i can now pretty much narrow down what it is.
Also found the old "push your thumb on the speedo at about 120mph point" trick fantastic as i can now start the bugger every time.
Just wish i had known when i had to sit outside the petrol station swearing for 40 minutes the other day!!!
Am not really confident enough to fix it myself but at least i have a rough idea of what to tell the garage for a change rather than being just a woman at the mercy of money grabbing machanics!
Nicky
x
Hey will PDT just do the resoldering? I am gutted as I have taken it all out but just cannot get the needles off plus I am crap at soldering. Need to fix this ASAP.
Reading through this sound like a lot of people have had to have the cluster out a few times - i don't want to be doing this and rather get it right first time as its not fun!
no need too appologise
,its a dealer job or someone who really knows what their doing.Bondiblu a member on here has done some maybe pm him for advise.
soldering is easier and cheaper though.
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Plus if you buy a set from a breakers they might not last long until the same thing happens again.
You should be able to get yours re soldered for a similar price to a set of clocks from a salvage yard and then you'll have peace of mind that it's sorted
You should be able to get yours re soldered for a similar price to a set of clocks from a salvage yard and then you'll have peace of mind that it's sorted
trolley
Guest
Goble, are they on top of the gearbox tunnel or at the base of the A frame? I only ask as I thought they were different places. Also from which side is best to approach, drivers or passenger?
Hi
Forgive me but I'm very new to the ibiza..
I've bought a 2003 tdi sport and I've noticed that the temp gauge has worked when it feels like and now the needle sits at the 70 mark with the ignition off and won't retract back to the 50 mark.
With your collective knowledge would this sound like an issue with the temp sender or the clocks.
Thanks in advance.
Forgive me but I'm very new to the ibiza..
I've bought a 2003 tdi sport and I've noticed that the temp gauge has worked when it feels like and now the needle sits at the 70 mark with the ignition off and won't retract back to the 50 mark.
With your collective knowledge would this sound like an issue with the temp sender or the clocks.
Thanks in advance.
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When your immobiliser light flashes turn key off push in the speedo at the 100 mark and then try starting the car (works every time) I have this Probley with immobiliser and fuel gauge I'm looking to fix this soon
My fuel gauge moves but its goes down until it can't move no more and when I turn it off it returns up to the empty mark is this the sender or clocks?
muddyfox470
Guest
I finally got around to doing this last night, took a while to get the cluster unit out, and I snapped the purple retaining clip holding the green connector in after using too much force.
Took my time to solder, majority of them went OK, not too much solder, bar one, tried to tidy it up, then accidentally connected two, then a group of four (pins for the warning lamps 2,3,18,19), so I spent 20 minutes just sorting out the mess, once it was tidied up and I made sure there was no shorting, I put it all back in the car.
It all worked (and car started) thought I might have destroyed something, however although the trip odometer displays i.e. since resetting it, the actual odometer shows nothing (not zero) but there is no display.
I have put the cluster back in so I can use the car, but I am wondering what has happened to the display, the bottom portion displays, so why doesnt the actual car mileage show any more?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
PS. I could definitely not be a surgeon, couldn't believe how shaky I was looking at the tip.
Took my time to solder, majority of them went OK, not too much solder, bar one, tried to tidy it up, then accidentally connected two, then a group of four (pins for the warning lamps 2,3,18,19), so I spent 20 minutes just sorting out the mess, once it was tidied up and I made sure there was no shorting, I put it all back in the car.
It all worked (and car started) thought I might have destroyed something, however although the trip odometer displays i.e. since resetting it, the actual odometer shows nothing (not zero) but there is no display.
I have put the cluster back in so I can use the car, but I am wondering what has happened to the display, the bottom portion displays, so why doesnt the actual car mileage show any more?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
PS. I could definitely not be a surgeon, couldn't believe how shaky I was looking at the tip.
Did you do the job with the plastics in place, or did you remove the plastics and LCDs?
Either way sounds like youve disturbed the contact between the carbon strips and the PCB, or the metal cage around the LCD has come loose.
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muddyfox470
Guest
I removed all the plastics so I just had the stripped down board. Only things left were the servo's and the connector blocks and everything else soldered onto the board.
When re-seating the plastic surround, I've had it where the locating pins are quite tight and it's not quite flush with the PCB. Sounds like you'll need to strip them down again, clean the black contacts on the PCB side and the edge of the carbon connector strips beneath the LCD and make sure all is seated nice and flush. I normally use isopropyl to clean contacts/connectors, hope that helps.
muddyfox470
Guest
Excellent thank you!
Thankfully I have some isopropyl from when I change over CPUs in my computer.
I also didn't put it fully back together so taking it out again shouldn't cause too many dramas.
Will have a go this evening, thanks for your fast reply, fingers crossed it comes back working! I'm just confused why half the display is working and not the top half.
muddyfox470
Guest
Took it apart and back together and it is now working, it probably didn't need cleaning but I did anyway, I think when I was putting it back together initially I must have forgotten the one clip behind the LCD, so I think that wasn't fully clipped so it didn't have a good connection so the upper characters did not display but the top ones still did.
Thank goodness, I thought I might have zeroed the odometer!
Thank you for your help!
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