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Agreed
I see your point Phil - I agree that I need to go out in a BT Ibiza really to experience it for myself, which might change my opinion.
I still maintain that too many people write off/underestimate the hybrids though. Yes it falls short of big BHP figures but it really does surprise a lot of cars out there with a lot more power who end up caught with their pants down.
Traction is an issue in 1st/2nd but once it finds grip it forces you forwards at an impressive pace. Instantaneous torque is a big winner for me, coming from someone that hates lag.
Most if not all of us are agreed that tractable power is key - remembering you're always ultimately limited by FWD. Like everything in life, the right balance is key.
I'm intrigued by the Garrett 2868 HTA that is being talked about at the moment which utilises a lightweight billet comp wheel for quick spool times but is capable of flowing big numbers.
First things first though - get the engine sorted once and for all and then re-assess my power goals from there.
![[B)]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/shades.gif "Cool [B)]")
If wellys S3 is any gauge from a 1500kg car on 2283 hybrid, its power/torque and delivery is savage... and even with 4wd it span up in 1st and 2nd in dry when hooning about. In fwd... Hmmm.. it would need some gear limit to use first 3 gears in the dry I would predict... much like BT power, but much earlier in the rpm range with boost onset.
338bhp/307lbft would be punchier than an IHI VF34 by some margin. (22psi boost also)
Sorry to hear about your bores Robbie, hopefully you´ll be back even stronger in a short time
I vote for hybrid power!
If you want peak power get a R-bike
I vote for hybrid power!
If you want peak power get a R-bike
Well since my last post robs sorted out what he wants to do next with the engine (see above) so on to engine strip ready for block work
First off loom and all bolt on parts off
Flip it over ready for pistons etc to be removed
Oil pump off and pistons out
Pistons (Left is 4, right is 1)
Hard to see but this is cylinder 1 with scoring all down the piston on both sides inlet and exhaust (above and below the rings)
Cylinder 3 scoring all the way to the bottom of the stroke ( Battery died on camera to take anymore pictures )
And the crank bolt beat my trusty adaptor
First off loom and all bolt on parts off
Flip it over ready for pistons etc to be removed
Oil pump off and pistons out
Pistons (Left is 4, right is 1)
Hard to see but this is cylinder 1 with scoring all down the piston on both sides inlet and exhaust (above and below the rings)
Cylinder 3 scoring all the way to the bottom of the stroke ( Battery died on camera to take anymore pictures )
And the crank bolt beat my trusty adaptor
Going to be some bit of kit this Robbie.
Did you get your rocker cover sandblasted? I have heard of this causing problems if any grit got into the rocker breather.
Did you get your rocker cover sandblasted? I have heard of this causing problems if any grit got into the rocker breather.
No it wasn't and every part was cleaned.... I know this because I did it all
Certainly is. Onwards and upwards.
Yesterday my stripped head and block were dropped off ready for porting/polishing and overbore to 82.5mm (1847cc by my calcs) before it meets it's new JE pistons which I'm looking to order this week together with a full Supe***** valvetrain using the titanium retainer set and single collet valves (inconel for exhaust side).
I'm going for a 9:1 custom compression ratio with the idea of pursuing more power at a later point in time, probably 2012. The overbore should give me a little more low-end torque and I don't plan on running silly boost if/as/when I do decide to up the ante with a "proper" turbo.
One thing I'm not sure on - ARP main and head bolts... should I just bite the bullet and invest in a set while I'm rebuilding the whole thing or stick with OE? I'll also fit a new oil pump together with new big end and main bearings while I'm at it.
Robbie, I had this choice, went with OEM ones as they are suitable to be tightened to over 100ft lbs. Only real advantage I saw was that the ARP was that you *could* possibly reuse them at least once, although the cost of them was over 3 times the cost of OEM ones so I saw no point. Up to you I guess
I went for arp head bolts last time i refitted my head.
When i initially built the engine in 09 i used oe bolts but a year later when the head went off for new valve guides i was able to undo all 10 bolts with a 3/8th drive ratchet!!
I know they were torqued up correctly when i refitted the head and i checked them several times during and after the run in period so can only assume they stretched over time due to the boost levels i'm running.
If it was me and with the power/boost your potentially going to be running i'd go with the arp's.
When i initially built the engine in 09 i used oe bolts but a year later when the head went off for new valve guides i was able to undo all 10 bolts with a 3/8th drive ratchet!!
I know they were torqued up correctly when i refitted the head and i checked them several times during and after the run in period so can only assume they stretched over time due to the boost levels i'm running.
If it was me and with the power/boost your potentially going to be running i'd go with the arp's.
hi robbie hows it going? glad to see some progress coming along with this unlike my car lol cant wait to see this all done and getting used properly and to see where all your cash has gone lmao, what valves are you getting for it m8? read on your first post that your using ferrea valves but had no update on this on your readers rides and who's doing the fitting of the valves for you?
keep up the good work both you and dale
lol cant wait to see this all done and getting used properly and to see where all your cash has gone lmao, what valves are you getting for it m8? read on your first post that your using ferrea valves but had no update on this on your readers rides and who's doing the fitting of the valves for you?keep up the good work both you and dale
Cheers Gaz - yeah will be nice to get it back on the road to get some moneys worth out of all this, though it gives me a sound platform to build upon.
After talking with a few people and getting quotes for various different bits and pieces I've ended up ordering:
JE 82.5mm 9:1 CR pistons
Ferrea Super Alloy inlet and exhaust valves
Ferrea valve springs and titanium retainers
Uprated sputter big end bearings
ARP main studs
OE replacement main bearings, thrust washers, head bolts, head gasket kit and crank seals
As JE have to custom machine these pistons I'm waiting on these to be finished and shipped along with my Ferrea valve set which should be with me within the next couple of weeks.
In the end the Ferrea valvetrain came in only slightly more expensive than the Supertech set and I was advised that the angles on the Supertech valve bowls don't always match those in the cylinder head, sometimes resulting in the need to get them re-machined. Either way, the Ferreas ought to be more than capable and look like a very nice kit.
In the meantime my AYP head has been sent to JNL for porting and polishing while the block is away being rebored to 82.5mm ready for the new pistons. Further updates to follow when bits start arriving ready to be fitted.
After talking with a few people and getting quotes for various different bits and pieces I've ended up ordering:
JE 82.5mm 9:1 CR pistons
Ferrea Super Alloy inlet and exhaust valves
Ferrea valve springs and titanium retainers
Uprated sputter big end bearings
ARP main studs
OE replacement main bearings, thrust washers, head bolts, head gasket kit and crank seals
As JE have to custom machine these pistons I'm waiting on these to be finished and shipped along with my Ferrea valve set which should be with me within the next couple of weeks.
In the end the Ferrea valvetrain came in only slightly more expensive than the Supertech set and I was advised that the angles on the Supertech valve bowls don't always match those in the cylinder head, sometimes resulting in the need to get them re-machined. Either way, the Ferreas ought to be more than capable and look like a very nice kit.
In the meantime my AYP head has been sent to JNL for porting and polishing while the block is away being rebored to 82.5mm ready for the new pistons. Further updates to follow when bits start arriving ready to be fitted.
Hi Rob, sounds like a nice bit of kit there
just a quick question, if the head is getting machined then where will the problem arise that the valves won't match/ seat properly in the head? Also did you go for double or single retaining springs? I can see a BT coming out of this in the near future . Good luck, it's coming on.
Very nice thread you have here Robbie, you seem to have done what im trying to do lol
Have u fitted Badgers 3inch T.I.P yet as im also after 1 of these.....?
Oh and how does drive/bosst feel & compare to ko3
Have u fitted Badgers 3inch T.I.P yet as im also after 1 of these.....?
Oh and how does drive/bosst feel & compare to ko3
Hi Rob, sounds like a nice bit of kit there
Cheers Joe. I won't need to worry about the valve bowls on mine where it's being ported & polished, though the Ferrea kit came in only slightly more expensive than the Supertech and they seem to have a reputation for very high quality. As for the springs, I'm not honestly sure.
Very nice thread you have here Robbie, you seem to have done what im trying to do lol
Have u fitted Badgers 3inch T.I.P yet as im also after 1 of these.....?
Oh and how does drive/bosst feel & compare to ko3
Thanks. I'm not fitting a 3" TIP now as I'm sticking with my existing hybrid for the foreseeable future which has a smaller intake diameter on the compressor. I'm not sure my wheels can flow much more as it is - though never did determine what the actual flow rating was.
The new evolution of K03-2283 hybrids that are still being experimented with can utilise these TIPs as they have a K04 compressor housing. Prebs has done this with Bill's 3" TIP, though it requires you to re-route a coolant pipe and fabricate some form of bracket to move the gear linkage out of the way to stop anything fouling.
K03 hybrids are day and night different from normal K03s (assuming you uprate your rods and exploit all they have to give with an appropriate map), the power kicks in much stronger and is held for longer towards the redline where an OE K03 runs out of puff very quickly.
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Another small update and more bad news...
Upon inspection of my cylinder head it was revealed that my intake guides have all worn on one edge. JP has never seen this on a 1.8T head before - it's normally always the exhaust guides that wear, causing the valve stem seals to go.
Like my block, cylinder #1 is the worst affected - which begs the question, what has caused this?
I noticed that the car was consuming a lot of oil after the hybrid work was complete, but seeing as all this work was done in one hit (turbo, rods, WMI, etc.) then it makes it impossible to narrow anything down.
The only plausible explanations I can think of are:
1. Debris entering the intake and causing wear
2. Valve guides manufuctured from too soft a material, breaking away and causing the scoring in all bores
3. Running WMI that is too strongly concentrated (50:50), causing some form of crystallization that was then ingested into the engine, causing wear. We found that the WMI nozzle was blocked with some form of solidified chemical after just a couple of months of usage.
4. Unknowingly running the car on full boost when the WMI nozzle was blocked for a few hundred miles with very high CFs - possibly damaging the internals?
The engine only started consuming oil after the hybrid work was complete (or at least, became noticeable - perhaps the extra power exacerbated a problem). Either way, it's a weird one - I just want to be sure that I don't put it all back together for it to happen again...
I find it hard to believe that WMI may cause this issue directly by consequence of a highly concentrated mix as a lot of people now run these kits - though how many have had their engines apart since. Also, you wouldn't expect debris to get in the exhaust guides; more likely they've broken down over time.
Needless to say we'll be meticulous in checking that everything is completely clean during reassembly, and I'm tempted to run a slightly more diluted mixture and wind back the timing if necessary. We'll see.
On a more positive note my pistons have now been machined by JE and are on their way to the UK along with my Ferrea valvetrain so there should be some more movement soon.
Upon inspection of my cylinder head it was revealed that my intake guides have all worn on one edge. JP has never seen this on a 1.8T head before - it's normally always the exhaust guides that wear, causing the valve stem seals to go.
Like my block, cylinder #1 is the worst affected - which begs the question, what has caused this?
I noticed that the car was consuming a lot of oil after the hybrid work was complete, but seeing as all this work was done in one hit (turbo, rods, WMI, etc.) then it makes it impossible to narrow anything down.
The only plausible explanations I can think of are:
1. Debris entering the intake and causing wear
2. Valve guides manufuctured from too soft a material, breaking away and causing the scoring in all bores
3. Running WMI that is too strongly concentrated (50:50), causing some form of crystallization that was then ingested into the engine, causing wear. We found that the WMI nozzle was blocked with some form of solidified chemical after just a couple of months of usage.
4. Unknowingly running the car on full boost when the WMI nozzle was blocked for a few hundred miles with very high CFs - possibly damaging the internals?
The engine only started consuming oil after the hybrid work was complete (or at least, became noticeable - perhaps the extra power exacerbated a problem). Either way, it's a weird one - I just want to be sure that I don't put it all back together for it to happen again...
I find it hard to believe that WMI may cause this issue directly by consequence of a highly concentrated mix as a lot of people now run these kits - though how many have had their engines apart since. Also, you wouldn't expect debris to get in the exhaust guides; more likely they've broken down over time.
Needless to say we'll be meticulous in checking that everything is completely clean during reassembly, and I'm tempted to run a slightly more diluted mixture and wind back the timing if necessary. We'll see.
On a more positive note my pistons have now been machined by JE and are on their way to the UK along with my Ferrea valvetrain so there should be some more movement soon.
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chris-gti
Guest
chris-gti
Guest
Yes Km/h
And you out-pace a golf mkV GTI ED 30 with 330 hp?
most likley as the mk5's are heavier. my dad has a candy white gti 30th anaversary and to be fair they are VERY quick but i think he would strugle to keep up with my stage 2 ko3's. mind you his is standard 230bhp.
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