Surge on Stage 1 K04 - Cured

[sambryant]

yes you will still get a reading but do it in the day so you can read the gauge

 

[JamJay]

Thanks Sam. I've been reading about N75 valves and the best seems to be the stock F valve, putting a J on there might make it spike more by the looks of it.

The other option I have here is getting Stage 2 early without FMIC and having it tailored for lower boost in early revs but that won't be much fun to drive, will make it like a BT setup surely?

Bill, was what happened to your car here similar to mine? http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=5973

 

[ibizacupra]

no, mine was dropping into limp mode in that ancient post

 

[JamJay]

That was a loooong time ago . I see, I have no limp mode or codes, will update with boost pressure ASAP.

 

[rsmith]

Yeah you will still get a reading if its a mechanical boost gauge, which one did you get, TBO there pretty easy to wire up.Do you need a guide or help?

 

[cupra_r_ick]

i bet £20 on n75

 

[t0m]

i bet £20 on n75

£25

 

[JamJay]

Yeah you will still get a reading if its a mechanical boost gauge, which one did you get, TBO there pretty easy to wire up.Do you need a guide or help?

Yeag it's mechanical, nipple on the back which controls the needle. I got the Autoguage one.

I need a guide and help lol, not sure hich wires correlate to which function or part of the car loom.

i bet £20 on n75

£25

Which N75 do I need then? A new F valve or change to a J or H?

 

[rsmith]

How many wires and what color are on the back of your gauge?

I use the F N75, thats the standard OEM for the LCR, part number 058906283F.

I wouldn't replace anything untill i seen some logs, otherwise as the lads above are betting, its only guess work at this stage.

 

[Mark300zx]

Sorry to go off on a slight tangent but why do you guys recommend a MBC instead of using a closed loop electronic boost controller?

 

[sambryant]

its not instead of, we run both the mbc with the n75
as you can see from my pic, they are both working together

 

[Mark300zx]

So you have to retain the N75 for the oem engine managent?

 

[rsmith]

Yes, Most of us are only using the MBC to cap the boost at a certain level, i.e mine is on 1.8bar, anything over that and it is bleed off.Its cheap and easy.

 

[sambryant]

yes basically. then the mbc controls the total amount of boost. so like mine, i boost at 1.4 bar, anything over that the mbc will leak causing my turbo not to produce anymore pressue but it will hold at 1.4.

 

[Ronin225]

It seems this surge issue is more common than expected but people have added various items to limit or control the issue
I will be looking at getting one of these soon and a large cone with my newly found engine bay space but worried i could may get this even running OE map
Having recently added the responsibility of a house, my cars progress will become slower and if fitting one will require additional control and/or replacing OE parts i would rather purchase in one go
Is this a coincidental failure or is this new inlet highlighting weak points or dying parts
I only ask as the car is an everyday drive and i cant afford to take it off the road if i encounter any issues

 

[Phillc]

Its just the result of performance mods, the more you add the more pressure is put on the supporting parts i bet 90% of people who have had a re-map had to replace a coil pack, when i had my stage one i had to replace the coil packs and the N75. I think this is just the same except the 3" TIP has highlighted a problem with a supporting part on Jay's car.

 

[traumapat]

not worth disconnecting the battery to reset adaption against the new maf?

 

[JamJay]

How many wires and what color are on the back of your gauge?

I use the F N75, thats the standard OEM for the LCR, part number 058906283F.

I wouldn't replace anything untill i seen some logs, otherwise as the lads above are betting, its only guess work at this stage.

Hi Robbie, this is taken from my RR:

Kit includes: 30psi Guage, t-piece, 2meters of PVC tubing & a bracket - £29.99

From what I can tell the purple wire is the live feed from the lights, black is the earth, orange and yellow I have no idea.

The PVC hose fits over the nipple on the guage easy but getting it over the t-piece is going to be hard as the t-piece nipple is larger than the hose, might need to heat it to get it to slip over.

The T-piece also comes with a metal bung at one end that has a smal hole in it, I assume this is meant to be in there

I won't be able to fully log this car, full VCDS is in the £200+ region which right now would be better spent fixing it. The boost guage will be more accurate than the car anyhow as that won't read boost over a certain level, boost guage up to 30psi. I plan to film the boost guage as I drive, post up and get your feedback but I suspect that the needle will be bouncing in routine with the airflow. My understanding from you guys is that the car taking in too much air, realising it and dropping the boost, building it back up and so on hence the flutter sound but this is all done many times a second which as we know the N75 operates by pulsing many times per second, leads me to believe it is N75 related but I don't want to splash money on 'maybe' parts if I can help it although it is clear that the MAF was on it's way out, look at the airflow comparison.

 

[JamJay]

not worth disconnecting the battery to reset adaption against the new maf?

I thought this, Pat. It's worth a shout at least isn't it? Sorry to sound dumb but which terminal needs to come off and for how long?

 

[traumapat]

I normally take the neg off for 20mins. Its a shot in the dark but its free and gives everything a fresh start.

have your radio code handy.