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I may have one for sale mate just checking my new engine to see if it comes with one will drop you a pm if it does
Poor excuse from Forge really! Hope you get the Big Race cooler soon as I want to see pics of it and the install
Hope you also get your TB sorted, sorry to read mate.
Yeah, i picked up a new one today in a breakers yard, only €50, happy days, i need to buy a spare now.
Hopefully they will have a "box" tomorrow i need to get this fitted because the front of the car is going in for a respray, i don't fancy taking off a freshly painted bumper.!
I will if you give me the money, LOL.Bigger TB + intake manifold is next on the list anyways.
Nice one Dan, thanks
I didn't see that in your thread, i must go through it now, i do use a check valve supplied by Devils own, still though when i took the TB off tonight it was soaked in meth.
Where did you locate your break value?
Yeah, i picked up a new one today in a breakers yard, only €50, happy days, i need to buy a spare now.
Hopefully they will have a "box" tomorrow i need to get this fitted because the front of the car is going in for a respray, i don't fancy taking off a freshly painted bumper.!
I will if you give me the money, LOL.Bigger TB + intake manifold is next on the list anyways.
Nice one Dan, thanks
I didn't see that in your thread, i must go through it now, i do use a check valve supplied by Devils own, still though when i took the TB off tonight it was soaked in meth.
Where did you locate your break value?
I had it located at the nozzle, literally an inch away. I still had a few issues though, mainly in Germany unfortunately. You will also find the methanol causes the rubber seal to swell, letting more water in
I don't think there is much you can do about it.
I had it located at the nozzle, literally an inch away. I still had a few issues though, mainly in Germany unfortunately. You will also find the methanol causes the rubber seal to swell, letting more water in
I don't think there is much you can do about it.
Yeah mine is about 2 inches away, thats a balls, meth eats rubber for breakfast.Someone suggest a spacer after the TB and before the IAT sensor, maybe this is the way.My nozzle is just after the FMIC.
Whats happened in Germany?
Rocker cover refurb
Right, this is what i was at tonight after i replaced the TB.I managed to get a hold of a new rocker cover, it was in good condition overall but the paint was starting to peel and show its age.
As i am going for a more Euro look i will not be using my engine cover anymore.
I wanted to go with a black rocker, i tried to shine up a spare as a test and this stuff just doesn't polish up.
Here is what i was at.
Rocker cover i recieved:
Time to get out the paint stripper, i hate this part, its messy and that paint stripper burns.
I just applied it with a paint brush in a dabbing motion.
I took most of the heavy stuff off by hand, the rest got the power washer treatment.
I was left with a clean rocker after this, so i just sanded it down with 600 then 1000 grit and got it as smooth as possible.It doesn't have to look perfect but if you run your fingers over it you can fell any ridges/bumps.
Next i taped up any bits i didn't want to spray.
Welcome to my DIY spray boot, I am using VHT matt black.I want to see what the matt black is like, if i don;t like it i will lacquer it over.
First coat, i did two more after this, coats were applied at 15 minute intervals.
After the three coats, i let it cure for a few hours to see who it turned out, it was nice, but the surface had some slight imperfections, i just used some 1000 grit paper to gently nick the bits off.You can see where on the picture, the scuffed bits.
The next two coats should go on tomorrow nice and smooth.I will get pic's up.
Right, this is what i was at tonight after i replaced the TB.I managed to get a hold of a new rocker cover, it was in good condition overall but the paint was starting to peel and show its age.
As i am going for a more Euro look i will not be using my engine cover anymore.
I wanted to go with a black rocker, i tried to shine up a spare as a test and this stuff just doesn't polish up.
Here is what i was at.
Rocker cover i recieved:
Time to get out the paint stripper, i hate this part, its messy and that paint stripper burns.
I just applied it with a paint brush in a dabbing motion.
I took most of the heavy stuff off by hand, the rest got the power washer treatment.
I was left with a clean rocker after this, so i just sanded it down with 600 then 1000 grit and got it as smooth as possible.It doesn't have to look perfect but if you run your fingers over it you can fell any ridges/bumps.
Next i taped up any bits i didn't want to spray.
Welcome to my DIY spray boot, I am using VHT matt black.I want to see what the matt black is like, if i don;t like it i will lacquer it over.
First coat, i did two more after this, coats were applied at 15 minute intervals.
After the three coats, i let it cure for a few hours to see who it turned out, it was nice, but the surface had some slight imperfections, i just used some 1000 grit paper to gently nick the bits off.You can see where on the picture, the scuffed bits.
The next two coats should go on tomorrow nice and smooth.I will get pic's up.
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Could you tap the inlet manifold just prior to the IAT sensor? Or mount the TB at 90* to its normal position, so the electrical part is facing upward - no chance of meth getting in?
- not sure either are viable, I've not been in my engine bay for 4 monthes, but just suggestions!
Germany Trip:
Throttle body died on the run down to my friends near Dover - fixed it with electrical cleaner ready for the trek across to the 'ring, got there no problems. Pulled out of the campsite to head to the track the next morning, straight into limp mode with practically no throttle.. this time, took throttle body off, fully cleaned and dried inside with hand drier, unfortunately the gasket tore when removing it!
In the end we managed to cut a new gasket out of packaging cardboard with a pen-knife, and refit the throttle body.. had endless issues with the TB alignment after this. My liquid guage didn't seem to align it properly, after sustained full throttle it would go into limp mode.. not great having to clear fault codes whilst on track! A full vagcom alignment solved the issue - just wish I'd known this would be the case straight away and didn't b**ger about trying to find other things that could be causing the fault code!!
Ah well.. lesson learnt, carry a spare TB and vagcom!
Jeepers, thats Murphys law right there, what electrical cleaner did you use?
My FMIC shipped today, thank fluck, can't wait to this bad boy on.
My FMIC shipped today, thank fluck, can't wait to this bad boy on.
Halfords stuff, green cap. Pretty handy for washing you hands at the side of the road too!
Halfords stuff, green cap. Pretty handy for washing you hands at the side of the road too!
I sourced another TB btw, low mileage from a BAM engine, the seller only wanted €30 for it, nice. Its gas i couldn't find one for love nor money a few weeks back and not 2 turn up in the space of a week.Anyways i am toying with the idea of removing the Methanol, its turning into a PITA have to keep it topped up and have a reserve in the boot all the time.
The rocker cover is coming along nicely, its just needs to be rubbed downed with 1000 grit wet and dry to remove any imperfections and the lacquered.
At the moment it looks kind of grey, the lacquer will darken this up.
I sourced another TB btw, low mileage from a BAM engine, the seller only wanted €30 for it, nice. Its gas i couldn't find one for love nor money a few weeks back and not 2 turn up in the space of a week.Anyways i am toying with the idea of removing the Methanol, its turning into a PITA have to keep it topped up and have a reserve in the boot all the time.
The rocker cover is coming along nicely, its just needs to be rubbed downed with 1000 grit wet and dry to remove any imperfections and the lacquered.
At the moment it looks kind of grey, the lacquer will darken this up.
I fitted a 25litre tank in the boot.. then you don't really have to worry about keeping it topped up too often!
True, i am working off a 4L tank, so it can run out pretty quick if you are on boost all the time.
The biggest problem i have lately is the pump seems to work intermittently, the controller in the car says everything is fine, pump light flashes as does the boost and power.But then i check the tank and it hasn't dropped at all, when i manually short out the pump to starts it up, it works fine for a period of time, its like its seizing/getting stuck.Its only 7 months old at this stage!!!
So now i have the thing is it working/isn't it working so i am loosing faith in it.
Where is your pump Robbie?
I found water ingress to be a problem - killed my pump in a similar time to yours. Bought a second hand pump of Robdon, mounted it in my boot with the tank and it was fine from then on. I don't think they enjoy life in the engine bay!
I have it mounted in the front bumper, its on the passenger side, its well hidden back there behind stuff and not in direct contact with the elements, rain etc... i had the bumber off the other week and its still looks brand new.
I am wondering did the extreme cold we had over Xmas do it, we recorded -17.5 here!!
I am thinking of taking the pump to bits and having a look.
I am wondering did the extreme cold we had over Xmas do it, we recorded -17.5 here!!
I am thinking of taking the pump to bits and having a look.
as I said previously Robert, the pump out in the elements/damp, will corrode.
JonathanP did the same.
I boot mount these inside only now.
tuffty has applied silicon sealer over all the joints of the one he's going to use and mount on his inner wing.
it might work?!?!
JonathanP did the same.
I boot mount these inside only now.
tuffty has applied silicon sealer over all the joints of the one he's going to use and mount on his inner wing.
it might work?!?!
Hmmm, the boot is not an option for me, i like the boot as is, i use it for stuff, Also where i have the pump is completely out of the way and i have all the wires sealed up from day 1.I looked at it today and it was in perfect connection, no signs of any corrosion, damp, not even dust, at the token i really need to dismantle it so see whats going on in there.
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Forge Big Race FMIC turned up today
Yippeeeeeee, my long await FMIC turned up today.This thing is huge compared to my old FMIC and the build quality is outstanding, here are some pics from the install.
From the first impressions i am not holding more boost post FMIC, i have a new map coming later so i cannot log until then
The coffin turned up: Even has a cross on it LOL.
Forge were good enough to freeze pack 2kg of cocaine too, thanks forge
Inlet, you can see there are guide rails for the charge air;
Outlet: Serious built quality:
This is it compared to my old Toyo sport type R FMIC (7920cm3)
My old install, bye bye.
Part 2 coming up:
Yippeeeeeee, my long await FMIC turned up today.This thing is huge compared to my old FMIC and the build quality is outstanding, here are some pics from the install.
From the first impressions i am not holding more boost post FMIC, i have a new map coming later so i cannot log until then
The coffin turned up: Even has a cross on it LOL.
Forge were good enough to freeze pack 2kg of cocaine too, thanks forge
Inlet, you can see there are guide rails for the charge air;
Outlet: Serious built quality:
This is it compared to my old Toyo sport type R FMIC (7920cm3)
My old install, bye bye.
Part 2 coming up:
Forge Big Race FMIC part 2:
Engine bay trim removed, arch liner srews removed, fogs out etc... Bumper was off in 10minutes, a testiment to how many times i have performed this proceedure.
This is her minus the OEM crash bar.
New crash bar on and FMIC mounted and leveled:
Piping installed: Please forgive the dirt of the bay, its under contrustion at the mo, a few new things are going in new week!!!!
Bumper back on: Job done.
Forge have really made the install of this fool prove, it took me just over an hour to do this, my Toyo took 1.5 days, as i had to measure pipework, make brackets, swear, kick and just hardship overall.
Every nut and bolt matched up perfectly, if you fcuked this, you shouldn't be working on cars.
The build quality as said before is exceptional, thanks for, its a pricey product but now i see why.
Hopefully with have logs later.
P.S In the pics the FMIC looks off level, i assure you its not as the spirit level proves, its all down to me being piss poor at taking photos.
Engine bay trim removed, arch liner srews removed, fogs out etc... Bumper was off in 10minutes, a testiment to how many times i have performed this proceedure.
This is her minus the OEM crash bar.
New crash bar on and FMIC mounted and leveled:
Piping installed: Please forgive the dirt of the bay, its under contrustion at the mo, a few new things are going in new week!!!!
Bumper back on: Job done.
Forge have really made the install of this fool prove, it took me just over an hour to do this, my Toyo took 1.5 days, as i had to measure pipework, make brackets, swear, kick and just hardship overall.
Every nut and bolt matched up perfectly, if you fcuked this, you shouldn't be working on cars.
The build quality as said before is exceptional, thanks for, its a pricey product but now i see why.
Hopefully with have logs later.
P.S In the pics the FMIC looks off level, i assure you its not as the spirit level proves, its all down to me being piss poor at taking photos.
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