Brake wind-back tool for a Seat Ibiza

Red Panda

Active Member
Apr 18, 2010
368
0
Not telling
I can only talk about Ibiza FR rear brakes but my advice is don't bother changing rear pads/disks unless you have the right wind back tool(right hand thread). I felt like a right tool myself trying to mess about with long nosed pliers, wooden wedges etc. and getting nowhere after two hours. Can't think of a time I have sworn more over recent years.

Seeing this thread has reminded me what a pain it was! GET THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB and you'll get the job done in minutes with a smile on your face :)
 

mgrays

Active Member
Dec 9, 2006
371
18
Aberdeen
I bought a multi key "brick" to to this.. it is a casting about cube 40mm and has different lugs on each face plus a 3/8" drive socket in each face. Anyway had to file it to fit the Seat and then use a G clamp to hold it in contact.. then slowly twist it in with screwdriver while keeping pressure on with G clamp. Worked and cheaper than a proper wind back tool.. but a lot of a fiddle.. For the skinflints out there:(

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...ki-uk-21&linkCode=as2&camp=1634&creative=6738

£6.24 on Amazon .. Draper 52334 rear caliper wind back cube
 

thebigyin

Guest
I bought a multi key "brick" to to this.. it is a casting about cube 40mm and has different lugs on each face plus a 3/8" drive socket in each face. Anyway had to file it to fit the Seat and then use a G clamp to hold it in contact.. then slowly twist it in with screwdriver while keeping pressure on with G clamp. Worked and cheaper than a proper wind back tool.. but a lot of a fiddle.. For the skinflints out there:(

Just been replacing the rear brake discs and pads using a similar tool. Managed to wind back the piston on one side using a 3/8" wrench but on the other it wouldn't budge so on that side ended up having to resort to refitting the worn pads.

Can I ask, when using the "brick" did you move onto using a G clamp rather than a 3/8" wrench because you found you weren't getting anywhere fast without that extra oomph?

Cheers, Gav.
 

thebigyin

Guest
Hmm, it could be a bit seized but to be honest I really wouldn't know how to tell. Any tips greatly appreciated? :)

The piston spun easily but just didn't catch. Loosened the bleed valve too to release all back pressure but alas to no avail.
 

TaDa

Active Member
Jun 25, 2010
100
0
Barnstaple or thereabouts
I just want to check - have you undone the brake fluid top-up cap?
If you haven't you may be trying to compress the brake fluid as you try to wind the piston back.
If so, be careful as you undo the topup now - you might have pressurised the system winding back both sides - you don't want brake fluid going all over the car.

Edit:
Sorry - just re-read - you must have released the pressure undoing the bleed screw.
My first ever caliper problem was a severly rusted piston that would not go back in - had to buy a whole new caliper
 
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DEAN0

Old Git
Feb 1, 2006
5,419
1
406
Preston - UK
I just want to check - have you undone the brake fluid top-up cap?
If you haven't you may be trying to compress the brake fluid as you try to wind the piston back.
If so, be careful as you undo the topup now - you might have pressurised the system winding back both sides - you don't want brake fluid going all over the car.

Unless something has changed - the cap is vented to allow fluid to go in to the system.

If it was sealed - you would create a vacuum above the fluid as the pads wear and it would stop the fluid going in to the system.
 
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TaDa

Active Member
Jun 25, 2010
100
0
Barnstaple or thereabouts
Ah - now that makes a lot more sense :)
When I took a brake caliper off I was advised to remove the cap and put a piece of plastic under it and the screw it back on- this was obviously to block the vented cap from letting air in the top and brake fluid out the pipe where the caliper had been removed.
I had just followed some instructions I'd found and hadn't thought the reasoning through.
I'd clamped the pipe but I guess this was a belt and braces thing.

Cheers for that.
 

DEAN0

Old Git
Feb 1, 2006
5,419
1
406
Preston - UK
Ah - now that makes a lot more sense :)
When I took a brake caliper off I was advised to remove the cap and put a piece of plastic under it and the screw it back on- this was obviously to block the vented cap from letting air in the top and brake fluid out the pipe where the caliper had been removed.
I had just followed some instructions I'd found and hadn't thought the reasoning through.
I'd clamped the pipe but I guess this was a belt and braces thing.

Cheers for that.

Clamping the pipe is OK for standard hoses but not advised for those who have swapped to braided lines.

The plastic over the filler neck is the only other option.
 

mgrays

Active Member
Dec 9, 2006
371
18
Aberdeen
Can I ask, when using the "brick" did you move onto using a G clamp rather than a 3/8" wrench because you found you weren't getting anywhere fast without that extra oomph?

Cheers, Gav.

I fitted brick to piston, then used G clamp to hold brick to face with the rotating face of the clamp on the brick and the fixed foot on the outside face of the caliper (This takes 3 sets of hands!) Now have to use 3/8" extension bar which is 5" long as T-bar to turn brick using the holes in the side faces and only 1/4 to 1/3 turn at a time. Every second 1/3 turn I tightened the G clamp to keep the brick in good contact but slack enough to let me turn brick.

Hope that makes sense.

.. and to the later poster.. yes vented caps on reservoirs. It is a trick sometimes to put plastic bag over under the cap if you pull off any hoses or break into the circuit to limit the leakage (clamping flexi hoses is questionable and I really try not to do it) but not while bleeding brakes..
 
I fitted brick to piston, then used G clamp to hold brick to face with the rotating face of the clamp on the brick and the fixed foot on the outside face of the caliper (This takes 3 sets of hands!) Now have to use 3/8" extension bar which is 5" long as T-bar to turn brick using the holes in the side faces and only 1/4 to 1/3 turn at a time. Every second 1/3 turn I tightened the G clamp to keep the brick in good contact but slack enough to let me turn brick.

See now that seems like a total fiddle! The Laser tool is a one man job! Easy!
 

mgrays

Active Member
Dec 9, 2006
371
18
Aberdeen
See now that seems like a total fiddle! The Laser tool is a one man job! Easy!

Yes a 3 hand fiddle.. Laser tool is right way but I thought I was getting 6 tools (one per face of cube) when in fact the only face I needed did not even work. Anyway as I stated at the start ... one for the skinflints.
 

DEAN0

Old Git
Feb 1, 2006
5,419
1
406
Preston - UK

TaDa

Active Member
Jun 25, 2010
100
0
Barnstaple or thereabouts
Ah! Ok - so maybe the laser one 'just fits'

So to rattle off the solutions in decreasing monetary cost:

1. Very expensive brake caliper wind back set
2. Laser wind back tool
3. Bergen wind back tool with slight mod using dremel
4. Draper multi-faced brick, a dremel mod, a clamp and 3 pairs of hands
5. A clamp and an old brake pad

So unless I hear that the laser tool also needs a dremelling I'll buy that.

Cheers all - its been fun!
 
Jan 11, 2005
680
0
Barnsley
I did my Passat rear pads without a tool and it was time consuming so for my Ibiza I got the laser windback tool. The Passat took about 1 1/2 hours both sides (both discs and pads). The Ibiza took under an hour.

If you have good patience and plenty of time, winding the piston back in is quite easy without a tool but the tool makes the job simple.

Edit: no modifications are required for the laser tool
 

TaDa

Active Member
Jun 25, 2010
100
0
Barnstaple or thereabouts
Thanks - thats all it took - no mention of a dremel or a cramp :)

I bought mine off ebay - £18 all in - not the cheapest its been but I couldn't find cheaper.

No doubt they'll be £5.99 next week in Halfords but I'll just put my fingers in my ears and say "la la la".
 
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