Clutch slippage

[kelford1988]

Had my car remapped today by will and hats, off its a totally different machine. It is now running 177 bhp and 316lb/ft of torque, so as you can guess I've got some serious clutch slippage issues.

How long can I run it on the standard clutch? As I can't afford an uprated on yet. Also is fitting a definite garage job or can a competent DIYer do it?

Cheers

 

[rallynut]

why didnt you ask him to peg it back a little to preserve the clutch?

 

[CJRamze]

is that an Ibiza fr?
I wouldn't expect clutch slippage from that.

 

[benhampshire]

I had mine done by custome code over a year ago... this last month though i'm getting bad slippage from 4th gear onwards.

I have have a quote from awesome gti for single mass conversion for about £870 (inc vat)

Timing is a lottery as it all depends on the clutch the car got a standard... one thing is for sure though it will slip quicker in time with a remap.

 

[kelford1988]

Cheers guys, I didn't get him to peg the map back as I always intended on taking it further. Just funds aren't permitting at the moment. Its on 105k miles so it doesnt really surprise me.
Guess I'l just eBay all my xmas gifts to help fund a new Helix clutch and SMF.

 

[Husbandofstinky]

I really don't know why we keep going through this loop.

Restricted map on stock clutch and not long later it starts to slip.

Trying to have it done on the cheap (i.e. not changing the clutch) means that you'll have a restricted map or you will have to pay to get it mapped again for a full fat map once you've paid for the clutch.

Clutch first, map second.

This is not aimed at the OP, just to anyone who is researching into it first before having it done.

It just seems to be the same old story time and time again.

I know there are a few out there running around with a map and stock clutch by they are few and far between.

Get the job done properly and pay just the once.

 

[dervpower]

Thats very interesting Stinky...

 

[skullmunki]

Thats very interesting Stinky...

it's true though...get a new clutch first then enjoy a full-fat map

 

[dervpower]

it's true though...get a new clutch first then enjoy a full-fat map

Hmmm.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but if your running a map on a standard clutch and everything is fine, surly changing to a new clutch would see no benefit immediately?

 

[benhampshire]

My plan was always do map first as phase 1 was is pretty generic if im right?

While at phase 1 get the exhaust done, downpipe, air filters, block/remove egr then get a clutch.

I just prayed that it would last a year to give me time to save for it - its gone longer- i've done some other mods and now i can get a 'custom' phase 2 once the clutch is in and can handle a lot more bhp/torque.

I'm happy with my upgrade path choice, as long as your clutch is pretty 'young' i'd see doing the clutch first as an expenisve choice with little gain.

Though i do fully apprecitate getting a good foundation to build on as i was always hesitant to plant my foot knowing the clutch would go.

As often is said... it all depends on your funding at the time.I wanted a quick mod which would give me 'fun bang for buck' (yes i said buck ;-) )

Just my 2 pence.

 

[Husbandofstinky]

A stage 1 map is a restricted map with no guarantees that your clutch will survive even if it's well below the 300lbs/ft limit.

There have been many with 280lbs/ft maps with clutches still going.

Nine times out of ten its 'I'll pray that it holds out' and it doesn't.

Ben your method will cost more in the long run, just bypass the stage 1 and go straight to a custom map complete with whatever upgrades deemed necessary.

The old 'my clutch has started to slip' thread is about as common as it gets in the TDI section.

For those that do consider a map, expect a clutch be it before hand or worse afterwards.

Still if people don't mind paying for things twice...

 

[benhampshire]

Sounds like you had a clear upgrade path in mind.I like others were told our clutch should be ok for stage 1 as long as we are careful.I agree that new clutch other mods and phase 2 are a possible way to go but I didn't know if I'd even have the car 12 months later.I wanted at the time a quick easy mod which made my car more fun on current setup.I'm pleased with the car and 12 months + I now pay the price for my impatience but I didn't have clear upgrade route in mind.at the time of buying I remember saying no mods lol

 

[Husbandofstinky]

You're lucky its lasted 12 months, many members who've had a stage 1 map haven't had their clutch last 12 weeks. Despite what the tuners may or may not say.

I've had the Leon 5 and a half years now (since new) and reckon I'll keep it a few years more. If any it will be the Accord that wil be replaced but it is still a good motor in stock form. The Leon has money thrown at it every now and then to re kindle that bit of fire.

In terms of hatchbacks in diesel form there's still not a lot out there that much better than a sorted 150 Mk1 Leon. Until the bar move's that much higher its staying.

 

[benhampshire]

in that case then im very pleased...

I like you are pleased with leon and when the clutch started slipping over the last month i had quick look at what was out there and as you said theres little in terms of performance (and performance enhancements) and fuel economy that can beat the leon.

So i've bit the bullet ordered my clutch, which does seem quite priced but suppose it does include the fly wheel - for anyone wondering i went single mass.

No hard feelings husbandofstinky - sorry i was abrupt earlier. just a lot of people do the stage one as newbies without really knowing, reading the odd review & don't have the money to fully appreciate the extra work needed to ensure smooth running.

I fully admit i was one of them. You learn as you go though... i'm now stuck again you see i can afford the stage 2 but who knows i might go hybrid next year and have to get it remapped again.

Sorry to OP gone a little off topic

 

[CJRamze]

I learnt my lesson with Stage 1.
My clutch was fine however but it was a PD100 remapped from 120bhp to 150bhp.
However for the money I spent I might aswell of gone for stage 2,
I had a new exhaust and a turbo downpipe panel filter, and various other bits, Stage 2 is the future but the torque on the derv means a new exhaust.

With the petrol its been fine so far, if the clutch goes I'll buy a new one. Nothing will take this power away from me

 

[kelford1988]

I do agree with one of the posters that you should try your luck, there are plenty of people who have got away with stage 1 on a standard clutch. But you shouldn't get a remap if your not willing to live with the possible consequence of clutch slippage, and inevitably having to uprate it.

The thing I really wanted to know is how sharpish do I need to get this new clutch as at this time of year my bank balance doesn't look at it's best.

 

[benhampshire]

I do agree with one of the posters that you should try your luck, there are plenty of people who have got away with stage 1 on a standard clutch. But you shouldn't get a remap if your not willing to live with the possible consequence of clutch slippage, and inevitably having to uprate it.

The thing I really wanted to know is how sharpish do I need to get this new clutch as at this time of year my bank balance doesn't look at it's best.

For mine it was a slow demise started in about august slipping in 6th at 2.5k when i put my foot down (about 70mph) it then started doing it in 5th at same speed but higher revs then finally its got to 4th when i plant my foot above 2.5k.

I have driven for past year trying not to abuse and only putting my foot down when aboke 2k and trying to keep a lower gear for longer meaning when i change its higher in the revs for the next... maybe thats what bought me time. Anyway from teh info i gatherered when they start slipping bad you start doing a lot of damage to the fly wheel and thats one abd boy you don't want to destroy while on teh move (when you replace the clutch they recommend this) the dual mass fly wheels gernally aren't as strong as single mass and can fail quite early in its life.

To give you an idea i got a quote for a standard clutch for £550 fitted but no fly wheel its that what makes it expensive. if you dont change it and it 'goes' or when they do your clutch and needs replacing you effectively pay twice ( i sound like a hypocrite now after the earlier comments about paying twice )

The clutch is a lottery, mines managed 14 months since the remap but as said earlier soemtimes they go in a few months. I chose custom code as it is a supposed smooth progressive map not harsh for this exact reason. i personally noted a lot of people with revo and p-torque seemed to be burning clutches quicker when i started looking into the clutch issue.

Hope this helps?

 

[kelford1988]

Thanks much appreciated. I'll just get saving now, seems aslong as I'm not stupid I'll be able to buy myself enough time to save up.

Again thanks alot for the reply!

 

[zedzp]

ive bin looking into a new clutch aswel even tho mine is fine at the moment ive heard that the SMF is alot stronger but it rattles more? or are there certain ones that work like the oem ones but are stronger?

 

[Andrewcupra TDI]

well i think mines been chipped or remapped by the previous owner before last one i bought it off , a few weeks after buying car the clutch started to slip , but i was looking to plant it straight away ,

have since changed my driving style and wait for 2 -2.6k rpm before booting

since it went off the road may 09 - to sept 09 the clutch seems fine again

so i know at some stage i will have to replace it

but i like others thought will i still have the car in 12 months , pretty much loosing what you invest in parts for it

i done some utubing the single mass and the seem pretty loud would like to hear one in the flesh , to convince me otherwise its replace the duel


also think that if we had one good thread giving all info on cluches and maping and make it a sticky perhaps people might not keep posting about it every other week