Intercooler Hard pipes

[Cupra_R04]

so basically the air would get hotter with ss than with aluminium

 

[Talx]

Why are you guys concerned with how strong the piping is going to be?

All it needs is to hold 45psi max in most cases much less even plastic piping can hold that much

The only problem is with the silicone couplers between the pipes at hi boost but a brace between the pipes can solve that easily
And weld wise any average welder is going to be ok and thats why i will be using V-bands in the most problematic connections which is usually the compressor and TB

 

[adam cupra 20vt]

I think its more that the alloy pipes can crush when the clamps are done up very tight.....swings and roundabouts between alloy and stainless I guess....

 

[Talx]

Maybe if you clamp it with a vise LOL

You are never going to find a clamp that is going to be strong enough to be able to close it and crush an aluminum pipe unless it’s made out of the worst grade of aluminum with a 1mm wall thickness

I have built many charge pipes out of aluminum for cars with a range of power never had a problem with an aluminum pipe crushing

Don’t forget its round so the more force you clamp the harder it’s going to be to crush it because physically you are strengthening the structure

 

[ibizacupra]

how would you propose adding a bead to the pipes (stainless) or ally

I have a bead roller for such work on ally... not having the bead will likely lead to pipe popping off

 

[adam cupra 20vt]

how would you propose adding a bead to the pipes (stainless) or ally

I have a bead roller for such work on ally... not having the bead will likely lead to pipe popping off

On my last car I used Milliput putty to make a bead, sets hard as steel and sticks to alloy very well.

Bit of a pain but I don't have a swanky bead roller so don't have much choice.

 

[Talx]

how would you propose adding a bead to the pipes (stainless) or ally

I have a bead roller for such work on ally... not having the bead will likely lead to pipe popping off

Well yes obviously having a lip on the end of the pipe is always essential (I though it goes without question)
What I usually do because I don’t have a roller is I just weld a stripe around the pipe ore you could just weld two small stripes on either side ore 4 dots will work anything to anker the clamps
But usually I find that the main reason pipes blow (not on hi boost cars )is insufficient silicone clearance and poor quality clamps

If you still have a problem I guess Wiggins clamps but they are very expensive so the best solution as I mention already is to have a brace from one pipe to the other so you would weld two bongs on each pipe then screw on a brace from one side to the other in order to stop the pipes from separating the is the best cost effective solution

 

[ibizacupra]

Well yes obviously having a lip on the end of the pipe is always essential (I though it goes without question)

You say that but I see a lot of cars which dont.........

 

[Talx]

That’s because most people think that just because they can use their hands that means they know how to build things

A few more posts and I will be able to post you guys pictures

 

[RobDon]

We are not all pro welders with access to mandrel benders, bead rollers, etc. so we just have to do the best we can.

I can take pics of the squashed alloy pipes that I had, I gave up on alloy pipes hence going for SS pipes, no problems at all now.

 

[Willie]

I will be installing my front mount intercooler (Spiarco) in about two weeks with my SEM manifold
I will be fabricating the pipes using 6061 aluminum 2.5” hot side 3” cold side with a transition to 3.5” Hemi TB
Both ends will be connected to turbo housing and TB with V-bands I will post the Wright up as soon as I finish it
Setup is intended for 800hp

Looking forward to seeing this

 

[Cupra_R04]

Rob do you mind me asking what angle of pipe you have coming off the charge pipe. Where the forge/ hose would usually be. Looking to make mine hard pipe all the way from charge pipe to inlet manifold with only connections being hose.

Thanks Mark

 

[Willie]

Rob do you mind me asking what angle of pipe you have coming off the charge pipe. Where the forge/ hose would usually be. Looking to make mine hard pipe all the way from charge pipe to inlet manifold with only connections being hose.

Thanks Mark

Why bother using silicon?
Get these joints 'V' banded and youlll have no leaking problems

 

[D.K]

Is there really much chance of proper silison hoses colapseing ??? If not it does seam a lot of work when you can buy them already made from Forge, Allbeit a fair bit more expensive.

 

[Cupra_R04]

Im not intending on using silicone i probably will use v bends. Dont see the point in buying the intercooler hoses from forge that cost £100 + when i can use pipes. Moving the battery to boot so wont need to worry about putting in the curved hose that side will just need a certain angled pipe.

Also i would like to try and keep the fog lights to give it a minimal look other than my crazy mods

 

[Talx]

We are not all pro welders with access to mandrel benders, bead rollers, etc. so we just have to do the best we can.

I can take pics of the squashed alloy pipes that I had, I gave up on alloy pipes hence going for SS pipes, no problems at all now.

First of all I wasn’t passing judgment on anyone so no reason to roll your eyes just helping out with information


What grade aluminum where you using? Was it from the T6 family? What wall thickness?

I’m absolutely sure the only reason this happened is because of using insufficient type of aluminum

All the pro builders use aluminum charge pipes actually I haven’t seen one professionally built turbo charged car that doesn’t and that’s because its superior in heat dissipation over any other alloy out there

 

[mike2926]

"Setup is intended for 800hp"

is 800bhp in anyway shape or form possible from one of these engines?!?!?!?!?!

cheers

 

[Talx]

actualy yes there are a few around

 

[mike2926]

really? thats amazing. good luck

 

[Willie]

actualy yes there are a few around

You have any links to your motor or others?
Is yours a Leon?