Yep thats where my diamond audio D7152 comes in
also aquired off ebay for a bargain price!!!!
Yep thats where my diamond audio D7152 comes in
also aquired off ebay for a bargain price!!!!Yep thats where my diamond audio D7152 comes in
i have to admit ebay does have some good stuff, i got my diamond sub from there, and at such a good price, just in the market for some new comps for up front, so many too choose from
Would these be any good?
http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-alpine-sxe-1750s_p-20265.htm
Also, how hard is it to change the tweeters? and would I need speaker adapters for a 53 plate?
http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-alpine-sxe-1750s_p-20265.htm
Also, how hard is it to change the tweeters? and would I need speaker adapters for a 53 plate?
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My Alpine headunit is spot on, but never had any experience with the speakers im afraid. Plus ill always try and avoid any products that state the peak power output as opposed to the RMS value, as these companies are just throwing the biggest number possible at people assuming that they dont know the difference (and like wise wont no a crappy sound when they hear it ). Still though, Alpine are a decent mid-range brand with lots of experience in this field so they might be alright.
you say that, but most 'high street' brands also throw around untrue RMS values.
i would rather have good quality pioneer speakers than alpine.
some people forget that the high end pioneer stuff is actually very very good. they get put off by the crap they make and sell at silly cheap prices.
with car audio you pay for what you get... never expect to get something cheap that sounds good (unless you find a bargain on ebay
) my original alpine front component speakers cost me £96. they where a massive improvement untill i got hold of some JL audio VR650-csi speakers.
the JL audio speaker specifications where lower than the alpine ones, but boy oh boy did they sound a lot better. With the JL speakers clarity was kept all the way up to it was far too loud to listen to, the range and 'feel' of the sound produced was immense compared to the alpine speakers.
the JL audio speakers cost just shy of £300 when new (i got them for £100) and to be honest i wasted £96 on the alpine.
buy cheap buy twice!
(the above is in my personal opinion and may / may not be shared with others)
All im using in my car now is JL audio and diamond audio equipment and since hearing the quality of this equipment over the highstreet (halfords) brands it is all i would ever buy again. As i mentionned before, all of this has been bought off ebay for a fraction of the retail price, so my advice to you is to do the same. Buy some high quality speakers for £100 of ebay, and you will never feel the need to upgrade ever again!!!
this is what you want...............
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Diamond-Audio...5fGPSQ5fCarQ5fSpeakersQ5fPPQQsalenotsupported
Diamond audio s600a on Ebay with no reserve. retail at £500. Diamonds best component speakers!, i got mine off ebay for £100.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Diamond-Audio...5fGPSQ5fCarQ5fSpeakersQ5fPPQQsalenotsupported
Diamond audio s600a on Ebay with no reserve. retail at £500. Diamonds best component speakers!, i got mine off ebay for £100.
its not the rms that determins 'bass' reproduction its the frequency range that will dictate that
its not the rms that determins 'bass' reproduction its the frequency range that will dictate that
so what be good frequency?
the speaker adapters are nomaly plastic, i was given option of wooded ones instaed as would better (Quoted by bass junkies)
yes. wood iss much better than plastic adapters.
well there is no 'good' frequency....
what you should look for in a speaker is what Hz it can produce.
for example take a cheap and nasty POS off ebay HERE
the specs on these crap speakers are this:
16.5cm (6.5") 3-way speakers
Peak Power 300W
Impedence: 4-ohm
Frequency Response: 100Hz-18kHz
Sensitivity: 90dB/W/m
right... now you look at a decent speaker:
HERE
2-way coaxial - 16.5cm (6.5")
Max. power handling: 120W
Nom. power handling: 80W
Sensitivity : 90dB
Frequency response: 50 - 22.000 Hz
Crossover frequency: 4800Hz
right.... on comparison:
you can see the 'peak power' on the first speaker is really over rated. (first sign of a crap speaker)
the first speaker does not have a nominal (RMS) value... this is generally because the RMS is so shoddy that its not worth publishing.
(RMS 'should' be worked out as Peak Power x 0.404, so the first speaker 'should' have a rms of roughly 120RMS ish... but if that was the case then why not publish that data!)
on the second speaker the Max powe handling they have quoted is a much more realisitic number and infact they have probably under quoted the max power handling capability.
now move on to the frequency responce of the speakers:
First Speaker: 100Hz-18kHz
Second Speaker: 50 - 22.000 Hz
So the second speaker can reproduce 50HZ lower frequencies than the first speaker (more 'bass'), and it can also reproduce higher frequencies.. another 4kHz in comparison to the 1st speaker.
as you can see overall the second speaker kicks the nuts off the first one.
hope thats helped slightly
well there is no 'good' frequency....
what you should look for in a speaker is what Hz it can produce.
for example take a cheap and nasty POS off ebay HERE
the specs on these crap speakers are this:
16.5cm (6.5") 3-way speakers
Peak Power 300W
Impedence: 4-ohm
Frequency Response: 100Hz-18kHz
Sensitivity: 90dB/W/m
right... now you look at a decent speaker:
HERE
2-way coaxial - 16.5cm (6.5")
Max. power handling: 120W
Nom. power handling: 80W
Sensitivity : 90dB
Frequency response: 50 - 22.000 Hz
Crossover frequency: 4800Hz
right.... on comparison:
you can see the 'peak power' on the first speaker is really over rated. (first sign of a crap speaker)
the first speaker does not have a nominal (RMS) value... this is generally because the RMS is so shoddy that its not worth publishing.
(RMS 'should' be worked out as Peak Power x 0.404, so the first speaker 'should' have a rms of roughly 120RMS ish... but if that was the case then why not publish that data!
)on the second speaker the Max powe handling they have quoted is a much more realisitic number and infact they have probably under quoted the max power handling capability.
now move on to the frequency responce of the speakers:
First Speaker: 100Hz-18kHz
Second Speaker: 50 - 22.000 Hz
So the second speaker can reproduce 50HZ lower frequencies than the first speaker (more 'bass'), and it can also reproduce higher frequencies.. another 4kHz in comparison to the 1st speaker.
as you can see overall the second speaker kicks the nuts off the first one.
hope thats helped slightly
nice summary mate
with car audio stuff you pay for what you get (unless you get a great steal off ebay with some one selling high priced audio equipment for penuts)
and just to add if it hasnt been already, no speakers are going to push to there full potential without a amp, even a cheapo amp will sound better than just powering them from the standard headunit
thats not actually that true..
Yes amping does help the speaker out a lot BUT.. and thats a bit BUT.. cheap amps are cheap because they suck.
the way that cheap amp's amplify the wave form is rubbish and can actually give you a much worse signal out that a standard HU
Anyone else had a problem after fitting these with after market speakers and the window wont go all the way down? mine sticks up about 10mm... thimk the window hits the magnet on the speaker....
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