We need to set a date mate as its coming to a year since the car has been corrected.Well done maz, you can use some of them new products on my car soon then
Anything is achievable mate.honest unless something goes wrong its a dead cert before the AMD RR day in september
i going to be working flat out on her to get her looking right so i wont be ashamed to have the bonnet up anymore
and with your help i thinks its achieveable
All hail Dholdi for posting me a ballast. Top guy!
Thanks and was good to meet you too.I hadnt noticed this before, glad to of helped out.
Nice to have met you at the show and well done on a deserving win.
Hi mate,hi your car is looking good can we talk about what you have done to it cos got 1 and now going to put a md376 on it i can call you or my number is 07717747755 or 01209213620 cheers Gavin
Worth looking at the front end geometry. How parallel are the track rods to the ground in both neutral and compression situations?Minor Update
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Car is running beautifully at the moment. I took her out last night for a spirited drive down some twisties. Car felt great however I always get the feeling the front is a little heavy being a deisel and all. Mainly notice it when you go from a long sweeping bend, heavy breaking then accelerate into a tighter corner.
No problem.Look forward to reading the review on the twin cold air feed, make sure you get loads of pics as im thinking about this too
Good points and thanks for the info. Alignment was last done when I got all the bushes changed and the factored in camber with the superflex bushes I got. They have a new machine now so may be worth getting it checked.Worth looking at the front end geometry. How parallel are the track rods to the ground in both neutral and compression situations?
Have you been on a decent laser alignment system? It may be worth checking how its setup against Seats specs.
I know you're not saying its not sticking, just that its heavy, which it is, but if it's possible to tweak the geometry a little, it should help that whilst also maintaining or improving the turn in.
It is an option but then why spend money on different subframes - might aswell get coilovers? I think trying the top mounts and drop links maybe the solution. Problem is few have done this on the deisels if any? So hard to gauge what results I will get.Only problem i can see is front spring weights, if the car is diving a lot under braking then it's going to feel heavier - combination of coilovers and stiffer topmounts helped mine but it still wasn't as precise as an LCR - fairly sure they have different subframes and a slightly different front geometry setup. If i'd kept the Leon, i was going to look into replacing the front subframe with an LCR one and then getting LCR coilovers.
Battery Relocation - Not really considered relocating the battery. I have a full LCR spare wheel so I wouldnt want to get rid of that to put the battery in the boot. I would want to hide it nicely if I was to do that.With regards to weight, have you relocated your battery to the boot? There's a good 5-10kg there which you can stick to the rear of the car, I don't know if you've already done this though.
If you can find somebody with access to a proper set of corner weight scales then all the better, stick it on the side which needs the weight the most.
I don't know what brakes you're running at the front, and it won't be that cheap to change, but putting on a set of proper "rotors" with alloy bells will also help remove some unsprung mass from the front end. 312/323/330's are heavy buggers if solid steel, much less if rotor/bells. I'm sure Martin @ Reyland or Bill @ Badger5 can supply/advise.
I can't see an uprated droplink kit doing a lot, unless it somehow preloads the arb. If anybody makes a stiffer arb that would be worth considering. Or get a new standard one and get powder coated, the baking for the powercoat will stiffen it up some. Compared to a used one it'll be quite a bit stiffer.
A front upper strut brace is also worthwhile, if a lower one can be fabricated too (unless somebody makes one already) that would help ensure the geometry stays as intended.
If you decide to go for coil overs, fit some eccentric top mounts too, then you can properly setup the front end, although I don't think you'll find a lot of gain here, certainly not on the road.
For dry tyre performance I've found Kumho KU31's to be unbeatable on my Ibiza (same front end weight issue) and had a similar issue with the back end going light (onto 3 wheels going into a roundabout) although totally predictable. All you can do really is stiffen up the front suspension so it dives less, increasing the braking power at the rear will just lock them up as they go light, so thats a bad idea.
KU31's are good in the wet too, and for around £50 a corner you can afford to stick a set on to see how they perform on the heavier Leon, but I'd be suprised if you didn't like them. If you don't then you can sell them on without losing too much.
It is an option but then why spend money on different subframes - might aswell get coilovers? I think trying the top mounts and drop links maybe the solution. Problem is few have done this on the deisels if any? So hard to gauge what results I will get.
If you've driven a well sorted LCR there's a marked difference in steering feel especially under load on corners.
No you misunderstand, the LCR subframe has a different geometry to the LC one - that's why it has different droplinks, different struts etc. Think the lower arms may also be slightly different too althoiugh IIRC the physical subframe is a direct swap.
If you've driven a well sorted LCR there's a marked difference in steering feel especially under load on corners.
I think that marked difference is due to the steering rack, as when i had my steering rack replaced due its failure, i was asked by my mechanic if i wanted the LCR steering rack instead as he said that it was short and different geomentry but a straight fit if I wanted it
Pat/Slick
So are we saying then that this heavyness I am having can be resolved by
1) Topmounts and Drop Links
or
2) LCR Subframe and steering rack?
Logic suggest it should be solved my topmounts rather than droplinks? In terms of getting the geometry checked out - worth doing this once topmounts are in?