Meaning your car is so nice it shows mine up. LOL
Thanks for the other comments guys!
Those logs look good Nick, for a stock tubby car they are excellent.
If you want to run more boost i would recommend fitting a Forge actuator with interchangable spring pressures. You may experience probs though as i have in the past if for arguments sakes you reach 1.45 bar @Red line and the map is only calling for 1.2 bar it may limp mode you. You would be taking a little risk too as you will be pushing a stock tubby very hard indeed.
An uprated exhaust manifold will help us all very much as it will reduce the back pressure on the turbine which can be blowing the wastegate open since the actuator spring pressure is only 0.6 bar on a stock tubby which will can loose us boost. I run my k04 with the forge actuator 1 bar to prevent this from happening. The uprated mani will help us reduce egt's which i can reguarly experience over 900 degs.
All my vagcom runs suffer as the duration of the logging increases since the under bonnet temps increase and heat up our air intake and inlet manifold temps and decrease performance by at least 5 g/sec when compared to the first logs.
If you want to run more boost i would recommend fitting a Forge actuator with interchangable spring pressures. You may experience probs though as i have in the past if for arguments sakes you reach 1.45 bar @Red line and the map is only calling for 1.2 bar it may limp mode you. You would be taking a little risk too as you will be pushing a stock tubby very hard indeed.
An uprated exhaust manifold will help us all very much as it will reduce the back pressure on the turbine which can be blowing the wastegate open since the actuator spring pressure is only 0.6 bar on a stock tubby which will can loose us boost. I run my k04 with the forge actuator 1 bar to prevent this from happening. The uprated mani will help us reduce egt's which i can reguarly experience over 900 degs.
All my vagcom runs suffer as the duration of the logging increases since the under bonnet temps increase and heat up our air intake and inlet manifold temps and decrease performance by at least 5 g/sec when compared to the first logs.
I had to replace the forge diaphragm on a JBS05'd car recently, and its actuator spring was 5psi only.. it was never going to hold higher boost with manifold pressures that it produces from the compressor heavy setup.
12psi I changed it to and it worked ok then, aside from getting seriously hot very quickly.. (as do all hybrid K04's I've seen so far)
12psi I changed it to and it worked ok then, aside from getting seriously hot very quickly.. (as do all hybrid K04's I've seen so far)
I think i know when to stop, and i think im going to stop I could make the changes and get a MBC and De-cat, but i think its time to get it dynod and see what iv achived. Sell it and move on
Im chasing minute increases now, so enoughs enough!!!
Ill log the cars some more and try to supress some CF's then thats about it, ill enjoy it
I could make the changes and get a MBC and De-cat, but i think its time to get it dynod and see what iv achived. Sell it and move on Im chasing minute increases now, so enoughs enough!!!
Ill log the cars some more and try to supress some CF's then thats about it, ill enjoy it
Yesterday i popped to Pats house to get some paintwork sorted out and Maz happend to turn up, so as i worked on their cars they worked on mine
Here are the results.
My Fav Shot
Here are the results.
My Fav Shot
looks good buddy..... amazing what you can do when its not howling down and you can spend some time on it.
Recenly every time i go to start my car its hit and miss if it just dies. Iv had to Bodge a fuse together as my last one broke so i now purchased this.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270423629233
Should have allot of hassle for the new buyer!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270423629233
Should have allot of hassle for the new buyer!
Thanks Dave!
Its the main one from the bat to the engine bay, when i start the car the draw is just to big for these fuses, this should sort out all the problems, and no more fuses. Woo
Its the main one from the bat to the engine bay, when i start the car the draw is just to big for these fuses, this should sort out all the problems, and no more fuses. Woo
Being a sparky I'm always a little concerned when fuses start blowing for no apparent reason. Have you applied any additional load to the car that may be draining during start up (wmi running when it shouldn't, audio etc). Also what is the stock fuse rating to be replacing with a 200A circuit breaker.
Does the fuse blow immediately or is there a small delay before it blows.
you sure it isn't battery problems.
Does the fuse blow immediately or is there a small delay before it blows.
you sure it isn't battery problems.
Cause the bat is in the boot the starter motor is now running through a fuse when it was not before, its draws a hell of alot of current and pops my puny fuses so no need to worry willy look at it as an extra fuse just to prevent shorts.
look at it as an extra fuse just to prevent shorts.
Ah ha, i see.Cause the bat is in the boot the starter motor is now running through a fuse when it was not before, its draws a hell of alot of current and pops my puny fuses so no need to worry willy
belts and braces..... can't fault that.looking forward to seeing your RR results.
Been out playing with the timeing tonight, settles on +4.5'o, Strange thing is i logged +0'o and i got CF's of 7 and 9!! How is that? i put the timing back to +3.75'o and it went back to low CF's.
Very stranege. I did do a 4th gear (dyno is done in 4th) pull on the 4.5 and it produced some 6's but the engine was quite warm.
Ill do another run to morrow morming once the engine has warmed up, see what i get then.
Very stranege. I did do a 4th gear (dyno is done in 4th) pull on the 4.5 and it produced some 6's but the engine was quite warm.
Ill do another run to morrow morming once the engine has warmed up, see what i get then.
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