Anyone else change oil this often when doing pretty low mileage??
Never heard of this before and I've done hydraulics for 12 years.You have to be cautious when changing oil too frequently as new oil eats away at the seals in your engine, sticking to the manufacturers recommendation is probably best in this rare occurence!
Never heard of this before and I've done hydraulics for 12 years.
If the engine is ment to take oil (which obviously it is) it will have oil resistant seals in it.
The cost is £30 for the all singing all dancing tests.
I would strongly recommend this service and Millers oils. As said this allows me to work out how often 'I' need to change my oil, other may need to change at different intervals but until you've had this done you'll never really know TBH.
Ross
I wouldn't use a lesser brand, I won't compromise on oils, petrol or tyres. The best is whats used, simple as.
yup fair point about being content conscious many buy blindlyMany would say (I wouldn't) that Millers is a lesser brand. I've always used Millers XFE-PD in my diesels, I think its great stuff but I don't think any of millers oils are necessarily better than the likes of Comma, Valvoline, Fuchs etc just because they have a Millers sticker on the bottle. There is very little difference if any, in their composition. Fuchs and Comma especially have an outstanding reputation, better than Millers outside of VAG circles. We use Fuchs oil in the guise of NATO designation OMD90 in our Warrior AFV engines which are upwards of £100k each, its not used because its cr*p oil.
A fully synthetic 5W-40 is what I've always used in my petrol cars and its what I'll continue to use. Just as it never gets anything less than either V-Power or Tesco 99 and Goodyear Eagle F1, Bridgestone RE050A or Toyo T1R tyres.
If we were all brand conscious instead of content conscious, we'd all be buying Mobil 1.
yup fair point about being content conscious many buy blindly
You have to be cautious when changing oil too frequently as new oil eats away at the seals in your engine, sticking to the manufacturers recommendation is probably best in this rare occurence!
Chill out people, I am not an oil anorak so am just passing on info I have recieved second hand, here is a quote from someone who works at Ford, it looks like it applies to sealant and not seals!
"Chatting to someone at work today about this and it looks like its from the silicon sealer used on the oil pans etc as oils are not checked against their errosion properties to RTV silicon sealer, everytime you change your oil its just taking a little out of the sealer The levels I stated are completely normal and are nothing to be concerned about "
Silicon sealant is not used on oil pans. Its either a solid state gasket or an anaerobic sealant, one that hardens when it loses contact with air (ie, between two metal bodies). Neither are affected by oil.
I know they used silicone bonding sealants a number of years ago but I haven't seen it used on pressure or oil bearing engine mating surfaces on anything I've worked on in the last 10 years. Its certainly not used on VAG oil pans unless the oil pan has been removed and re-fitted by somebody resembling a John Wayne character.
Its not used as a replacement to a seal but at a point where a leak could occur.
For instance on a sump that covers a block and timing cover, at the point where the timing cover meets the block the mating face for the sump isnt perfect, applying silicone ensures a good seal with the rubber gasket, likewise at the other end with the rocker cover gasket, also on rocker covers where there are 2 semi circular cut outs in the head and the rubber gasket fills them gaps, the edges where it starts to dip are a good place for silicone to prevent leaks.
I've seen it done on Saab rocker cover gaskets with a semi circular cut-out. I'd be extremely reluctant to use it anywhere it could come into contact with sump oil though.