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polish??
- Thread starter joe-cupra
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i would recomend auto glym super resin polish and then i would seal with poorboys nattys blue paste wax. Have a look on www.Polishedbliss.co.uk very good site great guides and great products
Nattys won't last a week in this weather. You will need something like JetSeal, Megs 16 Collinite 476 or 815 or my personal favourite Zaino if you want it to last a while. You will probably have to top it up over the winter but will depend on how much the car is used.
well i use nattys been on the car about a month now and its still like i just put it on and thats with the bad weather. Look at the biggest ever wax test thread on here nattys still there after three months in poor weather http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=178666
Another vote for Nattys here. Been on since E38 (with AG SRP and Extra Gloss Protection), still beading (just about!) when the car is clean.
sorry mate but wrong order...
Super resin
Sealent
Wax
so many people get the wax and sealent the wrong way around
SRP has some abrasive compounts that get rid of some marks... you wipe that off then you have more or less clean paint... Then you put a sealent down to seal the paint.
then put the wax on the sealent.
joe-cupra
Guest
sorry mate but wrong order...
Super resin
Sealent
Wax
so many people get the wax and sealent the wrong way around
SRP has some abrasive compounts that get rid of some marks... you wipe that off then you have more or less clean paint... Then you put a sealent down to seal the paint.
then put the wax on the sealent.
so what do you use to seal the wax in?? i have been looking at poorboys item..... http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/poorboy3Bs-black-hole-show-glaze-for-dark-vehicles.php.......... i assumed that went on after the wax as i have dod juice pre wax cleanser that i put on after super resin and before the wax..
you dont 'seal' the wax
what you do is...
1)SRP (Super Resin Polish) or other polish first on the car.
2)Then you use the dodo juice cleanser on the paint.
3)Then you use a selant
4)Then you use the wax
reasons for this method is :
1)polish helps remove small marks from the paintwork
2)paint cleanser ensures the paint is a good surfice for the selant to bond to
3)The sealant is applied to seal the paint work. this provides a long lasting protection for your paint if done properly.
4)Then you use the wax as another layer on top of the selant.. the wax is there to give you a 'sacrifice' layer between the elements and the selant.
some waxes will give 6 months protection , others will give you a month or so..
the long lasting waxes wont give you the 'bling' wet look but provide a good layer of protection.
shorter lasting waxes are the ones that look like your paint is still 'wet' and deep.
some people layer different waxes to give them a mix of both 'long lasting' and 'looks'.
they will apply a few layers of a hard 'long lasting' wax on top of the selant, then they will put a few coats of a shorter lasting wax to still give them the 'wet look' they want.
when the wax 'runs out' on the car and the protection is no longer given, the selant will still be there providing a good beading / protective surface for your paint.
so please ... dont waste your selant and put it on top of the wax.
Joe
i have a red mk3 ibiza. at the moment im using
SRP (Super resin Poilish)
Auto Glym Selant
Rubbish Boys Original Edition.
the rubbish boys OE is a very demanding wax if your not patient.
its a very hard, very rewarding wax to work with and if applied correcty can give amazing results and long lasting protection.
my car hasnt had a re-wax for around 5 months now, and it still beads very nicely.
it requires a lot of time to work with but as i say, its a fantastic wax. that will easily see you through the winter months.
Mat
Guest
Goin on that adam, wouldn't you use the DJ Cleanser before polish? In theory/ideal world, the polish would be applied by machine and you want the surface as clean as possible to prevent contaminents being moved around and thus causing more scratches.
Also, when machine polishing, you remove a tiny amount of paint, so therefore, the paint is as clean as it's going to get.
And, wouldn't DJ Cleanser remover the SRP which is more of a swirl "filler" rather than a "remover" if applied by hand?
Collinite 476 wax, it will last 6 months and is cheap and is very good. Trust me you can't go wrong with it for a wax.
Clarke
Clarke
it says on dodo juice pre wax cleanser i have ( lime prime light) i think*
it says polish car first, before you apply the pre wax cleanser...
Rubbish Boy
Guest
Okay guys, lets see if I can clear up some confusion here.
Lime Prime - This product contains micro abrasives so will behave as a polish and cleaner. As well as having cleansing and glazing oils. It can be used by hand and also works well as a finshing polish by machine.
Use instead of SRP, although Lime Prime doesn't have any filling/sealant properties. If you were to use SRP before LP then you would remove SRP's fillers. If you were to use SRP after LP then you would remove LP's glazing oils. One or the other would be my advice, otherwise you are essentially doing the same job twice.
Lime Prime Lite - This product has no abrasives and is chemical cleaner with glazing oils. It has no bite as such so won't be able to offer an sort of correction abilites, so if you have heavy oxidisation, sratches and swirls etc, polish first.
You could use SRP before LPL to make use of SRP's arbasives, but you will remove SRP's fillers and sealant properties by doing so. There would be little point in using LPL first though as the SRP would remove LPL's glazing oils and essentially do the cleaning job again.
Generally you would Wash -> Clay -> Polish -> Cleanse -> Wax unless of course your polish/cleanse are the same product as in Lime Prime or SRP.
Generally Sealant first then Wax if you were going to do so. Be careful of using an oily, glaze heavy cleaner such as LP or LPL before a sealant as this can stop the sealant bonding well to the paint, shortening it's life. If using LP or LPL go straight to wax x 2.
Lime Prime - This product contains micro abrasives so will behave as a polish and cleaner. As well as having cleansing and glazing oils. It can be used by hand and also works well as a finshing polish by machine.
Use instead of SRP, although Lime Prime doesn't have any filling/sealant properties. If you were to use SRP before LP then you would remove SRP's fillers. If you were to use SRP after LP then you would remove LP's glazing oils. One or the other would be my advice, otherwise you are essentially doing the same job twice.
Lime Prime Lite - This product has no abrasives and is chemical cleaner with glazing oils. It has no bite as such so won't be able to offer an sort of correction abilites, so if you have heavy oxidisation, sratches and swirls etc, polish first.
You could use SRP before LPL to make use of SRP's arbasives, but you will remove SRP's fillers and sealant properties by doing so. There would be little point in using LPL first though as the SRP would remove LPL's glazing oils and essentially do the cleaning job again.
Generally you would Wash -> Clay -> Polish -> Cleanse -> Wax unless of course your polish/cleanse are the same product as in Lime Prime or SRP.
Generally Sealant first then Wax if you were going to do so. Be careful of using an oily, glaze heavy cleaner such as LP or LPL before a sealant as this can stop the sealant bonding well to the paint, shortening it's life. If using LP or LPL go straight to wax x 2.
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great advice above lp if u are planning to eliminate some swirls.choosing a wax can be a choice that will go on forever depending on budget,and looks or durability i would go with a dodo wax.
thats what i do!! :-D
how often would you clay?? its always been a mystery to me .....
Mat
Guest
i would say clay when you need to. once, maybe twice a year, depending how often you drive, etc etc
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