No EBC run off the ECU anyway, only ones like the AVCR need pick ups from things like rpm signal etc... for gear judge.
No EBC run off the ECU anyway, only ones like the AVCR need pick ups from things like rpm signal etc... for gear judge.
No, it just needs live and earth.
It runs instead of your N75, the solenoid which comes with it replaces the MBC you have now.
Just leave the N75 plugged in as you have now. If you, i'll take pics of mine for you.
With three lines you have in from charge pipe to the mbc, exhaust which is the line at 90 degrees to the in goes from mbc to the wastegate and atmosphere which is opposite the in line goes into the tip but can also be left to just vent.
You should find out what your actuator pressure is for reference. Unplug n75 with mbc removed to find out for sure. Unscrew the mbc and look inside so you understand how it works aswell. Spring will make little difference unless there isnt one on there in which case you should put it on.
I cannot believe that your mbc has a range of only 0.5 bar which is 7psi unless the distance between it totally in and out tiny. One turn can be the difference between 3psi on some I have played with which when they have nearly 20 turns is alot of adjustment. I also still do not see how the ebc will do any better than your n75 if it was working correctly as it is the sme thing but one is programable by you and the other controlled by your ecu so by who mapped the car and if it is requesting but not making then I dont see how it will change this to the extent you want.
there is a spring supplied with it (similar to the Forge 007p DV with different colour springs), which is to be used for higher rated applications i.e. stg3 tuned cars like mine. so it needs to be taken apart, the different spring added which will allow for higher boost to be run! so its just the way the MBC is setup which appears to be the restriction right now
pj, the N75 is the standard valve, which sometimes can be restrictive to the boost, as you get different lettered versions i.e. J, H etc with varying aggresiveness for boost. however the N75 IMO is not good enough to control the boost and of course does not have the adjustability in it like the MBC or EBC
thanks mate, yes, seems pretty straight forward. same connectivity as the MBC, all be it now an electric version
Just called Forge, my theory was right in the MBC and its not winding out enough
there is a spring supplied with it (similar to the Forge 007p DV with different colour springs), which is to be used for higher rated applications i.e. stg3 tuned cars like mine. so it needs to be taken apart, the different spring added which will allow for higher boost to be run!!!!
will give this a go, but once the EBC arrives this will be fitted instead, and the MBC sold instead
so its just the way the MBC is setup which appears to be the restriction right now
pj, the N75 is the standard valve, which sometimes can be restrictive to the boost, as you get different lettered versions i.e. J, H etc with varying aggresiveness for boost. however the N75 IMO is not good enough to control the boost and of course does not have the adjustability in it like the MBC or EBC
Thought something like this would be the case. The forge valve I have set up has ALOT more adjustment than 0.5bar. Do check it is plumbed in right though as it will still work to a degree with the exhaust and atmos the wrong way around.
I know what an N75 is! What im struggling with is why yours on your just under 300bhp car cannot control the boost well enough when they can on cars with higher power. How do you think the n75 isnt good enough to control the boost. It works exactly the same as an ebc, they are both just solenoid valves, but you do not control it the ecu does. There is no reason it shouldnt be able to control your boost if being controlled correctly.
You mean it came with a different spring and you never tried it!?!
I have to say that I've been through 3 N75 valves on my car now and it's like a boost lottery. First valve would surge, second valve ocerboosted and the third I'm now running will boost randomly high and low.
Most odd. I'm also going down the EBC route partly to rule out another variable. I've tried everything else.
Can always sell it on if it doesn't help.
Simpler is often more effective though. N75 goes in the bin along with N249, N112, SAI, EVAP - over-complicated nonsense.
if the valve is in good working order .
that could be a key statement there, if it is in good working order, and I would not waste another £60 buying another N75 which may not work and be faced with the same issue, when I know an EBC will most likely fix the issue in this case
I understand the safety part of the N75, but so long as the EBC is correctly used, within the correct parameters then there should be no issues....
furthermore (and going on what I have been told) if I do exceed the safety limit on boost, then it will hit limp mode.....I hope!
If you got charged £60 for an N75 you got ripped off. Theyrange from £25 to £45 for C,F,J and H varients any of which should be fine for your car.
To get more boost the ebc is going to have to be set outside of the map parameters or it wont get more boost which is not as safe as the n75 but you shouldnt get limp mode depending on the deviation variation and limits in the map.
I like the idea of the EBC being able to back boost off, control spikes etc with a reliable solenoid. The map is supposed to do this, but often can't as N75 fails to keep up or breaks in my experience.
thing is never liked my n75 made the car a bit lumpy and overboosted but not now with the ebc