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socket=> UJ=> extension=> ratchet
replace that f*cked bolt, with a new one (OE are too short) - just remember to fit it before you put the manifold to the head.
socket=> UJ=> extension=> ratchet
replace that f*cked bolt, with a new one (OE are too short) - just remember to fit it before you put the manifold to the head.
Rob if the bolts are well soaked, a small socket with a flexible shaft connected to a regular drive should do the trick.
Already tried that a hundred times, doesn't fit, socket doesn't sit properly on the nut, on any of them, there is not enough clearance behind the nut to get anything onto a socket either. If it was as easy as you guys make out it would be off already but it's not, so far nothing fits onto these nuts.
I've got that set - doesn't fit either. I'll take pics tomorrow to prove to you that all you guys are saying doesn't work on this particular manifold, if it was as simple as a small socket on a flexi-joint .......... i'd have had the manifold off on day one!
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If she's giving you hastle mate, forget about it tonight and look at it in the morning with a fresh head and positive attitude. I'm sure you have the means to remove it at hand at the moment its just a case of a clear frame of mind. manifolds are a bit more work than turbos simply because you have limited visability and accessability. The photos are good but only give a 2 dimentsional view its dificult to appreciate fully the access problems your experiencing. Don't sacrifice the mani it will be off in no time and can pay it towards the backdraft kit 
.
.flank drive and wobble end? needs stumpy socket, or perhaps make the socket shorter by grinding it down.. (if) it sits over the nut
we made spanners to fit the jabba one, based on another jabba mani i had mounted on another head. its well awkward on the car. not as easy as the piccys make it out to be
we made spanners to fit the jabba one, based on another jabba mani i had mounted on another head. its well awkward on the car. not as easy as the piccys make it out to be
just a thought, are you using a mirror? That was a tip revo kev gave me - it made it instantly easier
Can you get a set of molegrips on them even if theres only space for a quarter turn. Ive seen some with a narrow needle nose.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ELITE-PRO-SET...12|39:1|66:2|65:12&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14.l1318
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ELITE-PRO-SET...12|39:1|66:2|65:12&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14.l1318
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I was searching the net for ideas last night, found a few. One is to take a slim cold chisel and split the nut on either side of the stud, hopefully without damaging the threads, it just falls off that way, other was to slot the head of the stud and nut which I'd thought of already. Doesn't matter if I damage the manifold or studs as the manifold is going straight in the bin, 4 new studs are pennies anyway.
Needle-nose mole grips - possible but how do you generate enough force on them to turn the nut, the grips wouldn't be straight on the nut, they'd be upward at an angle too.
TIG-ART emailed me to say I'd have their manifold in a few days time.
Needle-nose mole grips - possible but how do you generate enough force on them to turn the nut, the grips wouldn't be straight on the nut, they'd be upward at an angle too.
TIG-ART emailed me to say I'd have their manifold in a few days time.
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crows feet on a 1/4 inch drive with or without fexi coupler should do it as the crows feet move the drive off set from center of the stud.
I've ordered a set of crows foot heads, my local Screwfix didn't have them in stock, I'm praying they'll work as they seem to be the best tool I can find. 12mm crows foot, flexi-join, rachet - SHOULD work.
If they don't work ... I'll be using the dremel to slot the heads, THIS MANIFOLD WILL COME OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If they don't work ... I'll be using the dremel to slot the heads, THIS MANIFOLD WILL COME OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
![[B)]](/forums/styles/seatcupra/oldforumsmileys/shades.gif "Cool [B)]")
Indeed - although there is NO chance of getting a dremel in, tried it today - no chance, has to be the head-on approach at a slight downward angle. I reckon a cold chisel will split the head anyway so all is not lost, but I'm concerned about hitting the head with a hammer and chisel, don't want to crack or break anything else?
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Rob
Have you tried Turbo Dynamics in Dorset....they are an official Garrett agent and make some high quality hybrid units and are repair agent for Garrett and others.
Aas for your Eliminator kit I nearly got pursuaded by Jim at Star but thankfully I'm glad I didn't from listening to Dean at Awesome who ran the Eliminator GT2X kit which he described as very laggy. Awesome's decided not to market these kits.
As for the GT28RS at least they are well proven and durable and in APR form it comfortably produces 345/330lbs on my old bus and has been faultless so far!!
I know what I'd choose rather than running a hybrid ickle K03 hybrid and rag it to death to achieve the headline figure.
Run a bigger turbo in it's comfort zone and it should run less stessfully and be reliable.
Have you tried Turbo Dynamics in Dorset....they are an official Garrett agent and make some high quality hybrid units and are repair agent for Garrett and others.
Aas for your Eliminator kit I nearly got pursuaded by Jim at Star but thankfully I'm glad I didn't from listening to Dean at Awesome who ran the Eliminator GT2X kit which he described as very laggy. Awesome's decided not to market these kits.
As for the GT28RS at least they are well proven and durable and in APR form it comfortably produces 345/330lbs on my old bus and has been faultless so far!!
I know what I'd choose rather than running a hybrid ickle K03 hybrid and rag it to death to achieve the headline figure.
Run a bigger turbo in it's comfort zone and it should run less stessfully and be reliable.
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