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ATP GT2871R Build with pics
- Thread starter cupra_matt
- Start date
if you have read the 2006 racing season you will have seen the OE bulkhead silvered heatshielding come noise reducer smoldered/burnt during one race.
replace it and insulate hot things which get near it or can radiate to it.
if you wrap the dp, mani etc remember that heat has to come out somewhere, and beyond the heatwrap it will get superhot singing and melting things like exhaust rubbers etc.
replace it and insulate hot things which get near it or can radiate to it.
if you wrap the dp, mani etc remember that heat has to come out somewhere, and beyond the heatwrap it will get superhot singing and melting things like exhaust rubbers etc.
I will do what i can with it and hope its ok, the first time it will get proper hot will be on JBS's RR.
mine uses 3 layer corrugated ally type heat shield on bulkhead area. made a box type affair to reflect the heat back towards turbo area. radiant heat is unreal believe me..... hot hot hot hot hot
Can any one tell me where i can get hold of a set of vibratechnic engine mounts at a decent price?
PS i have now cured the gearbox problem thankfully. Very greatful too my dad for spotting it as soon as we split the casing.
Basically, the plate (RED arrow) was slightly bent upwards in the direction of ( YELLOW arrow) which was holding reverse idle gear (BLUE Arrow) upwards and there was approw 0.5mm clearence between the gears (GREEN line) so they were catching slightly when pulling away.
All sorted now and driving nicely, ready for remap after me and my dad decide what we are doing with the geometry settings. Anyone have any suggestions? Bill?
PS i have now cured the gearbox problem thankfully. Very greatful too my dad for spotting it as soon as we split the casing.
Basically, the plate (RED arrow) was slightly bent upwards in the direction of ( YELLOW arrow) which was holding reverse idle gear (BLUE Arrow) upwards and there was approw 0.5mm clearence between the gears (GREEN line) so they were catching slightly when pulling away.
All sorted now and driving nicely, ready for remap after me and my dad decide what we are doing with the geometry settings. Anyone have any suggestions? Bill?
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i woudnt go much more than 1.5 matt as it will shread tyrtes as it is!
ive done my front yokohama pradas in 1000miles!!!!
ive done my front yokohama pradas in 1000miles!!!!
typically 1.5 negative for road tyres, not too bad and some slight tow out for stability.
drop me a line re VT mounts Matt.
drop me a line re VT mounts Matt.
Saturdays activites involved doing the wheel alignment.
Here is where the alignment was before adjustment.
after taking advice from several people, who said between 1 and 1.5 degree negative camber on front, i decided to go somewhere in between. so i decided around the 1.15 negative. Along with a little toe out as advised.
You can see here, the wheel clearly has negative camber.
So i took it for a drive, and..................... its bloody awful, steering feels lighter, and response is slow. So back to drawing board as far as settings go.
I might take it back to Cupra R standard settings and work from there.
Comments welcome.
Here is where the alignment was before adjustment.
after taking advice from several people, who said between 1 and 1.5 degree negative camber on front, i decided to go somewhere in between. so i decided around the 1.15 negative. Along with a little toe out as advised.
You can see here, the wheel clearly has negative camber.
So i took it for a drive, and..................... its bloody awful, steering feels lighter, and response is slow. So back to drawing board as far as settings go.
I might take it back to Cupra R standard settings and work from there.
Comments welcome.
toe out? not seen that..
dead straight, or slightly nose in...
and more camber.
-1.5 for sure.
make sure your tyres are pumped up to the same 1st (here's some egg's to suck too, but just thinking aloud)
dead straight, or slightly nose in...
and more camber.
-1.5 for sure.
make sure your tyres are pumped up to the same 1st (here's some egg's to suck too, but just thinking aloud)
toe out it stability under braking (for me)
mines being corner weighted weds this week for next race and full geo so I'll let you know the as is settings & see how the new setup works after saturdays race.
More toe in will make it turn in sharper... more camber also..
Case of dialing it into your 'preference'
mine runs well over double the std caster so maybe not such a good comparison as its suspension aint what it used to be
mines being corner weighted weds this week for next race and full geo so I'll let you know the as is settings & see how the new setup works after saturdays race.
More toe in will make it turn in sharper... more camber also..
Case of dialing it into your 'preference'
mine runs well over double the std caster so maybe not such a good comparison as its suspension aint what it used to be
it'll be interesting to see how yours sits (and handles) post corner weighting.
Kev's looked 'funny' but did work
Kev's looked 'funny' but did work
So leave camber alone and adjust toe too parallel and go from there.?
I always check tyre pressures etc before doing wheel alignment, but thanks anyway.
I always check tyre pressures etc before doing wheel alignment, but thanks anyway.
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