think about it...
30mm wider so..... other parts are over extended 30mm also... driveshafts?
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think about it...
30mm wider so..... other parts are over extended 30mm also... driveshafts?
but i think the centre of hub is in same place, top of hub is closer in arch and bottom is further out! or am i looking at it wrong?
StanTheMan
Guest
Surely it would only be 15mm further out at the hub. Isn't there that much movement on the splines?
I have to say you deserve a medal for getting the bottom connected seeing as you have new bushes. I struggle to get mine on/off with the right length wishbones.
To run proper widetrack, you need to do all the right parts, and shoving mk3 golf wishbones aint right. If the bottom of the hibs shoved out, then so's the middle and the CV is running overtended (inner is the slip one) and the track rod ends/steerign arms are incorrect length also. (although these have considerable extension as std.
your arb fit ok? yours are mk3 golf 4-stud wishbones I presume?
your arb fit ok? yours are mk3 golf 4-stud wishbones I presume?
it runs fine in idle now, cant remember wot the zeitronix was showing as it was only a short drive! and i was just trying the other n75 really!
im going to try n75 backwards again and see what happens!
im going to try n75 backwards again and see what happens!
the wishbones are identical untill the last 2" and thats wher eit is longer! so ARB is fine
im not keeping it like it, it was a mistake that im hoping to sort before the weekend!
yea they are mk3 and i need mk2, that right?
im just gonna paint my old ones
im not keeping it like it, it was a mistake that im hoping to sort before the weekend!
yea they are mk3 and i need mk2, that right?
im just gonna paint my old ones
also, since putting my n75 round the correct way its boosting to 20psi! could it be lean? would that point to the probs?
i need to log on the zeitronix really!?
i need to log on the zeitronix really!?
StanTheMan
Guest
cant see ur pic! i can see mine easily as well mate but i was out for like 4mins and just didnt look at it
rite....
had a long phone call with matt to day.
ive tryed unplugging maf....no difference
ive tryed different n75....no difference
when i put n75 in backwards it runs ok but its in backwards so its not right
matt suggested running actuator on charge pressure. so i done it...
i see about 11-12 psi but its the smoothest and probly the quickest its been soo far.
im now thinking of 1st trying a new n75 (rather than the 2nd hand one i tryed 1st)
or the forge boost controller matt used to use!
does anyone else have ideas from the new findings?
Cheers
HoocH
had a long phone call with matt to day.
ive tryed unplugging maf....no difference
ive tryed different n75....no difference
when i put n75 in backwards it runs ok but its in backwards so its not right
matt suggested running actuator on charge pressure. so i done it...
i see about 11-12 psi but its the smoothest and probly the quickest its been soo far.
im now thinking of 1st trying a new n75 (rather than the 2nd hand one i tryed 1st)
or the forge boost controller matt used to use!
does anyone else have ideas from the new findings?
Cheers
HoocH
bill do you mean with n75 in the right way?
as for the clicking do you mean just put my ear to it in test mode?
HoocH
as for the clicking do you mean just put my ear to it in test mode?
HoocH
when i run test you can hear them click on off on off easily with bonnet open. did the same when it was removed plumbing wise but connected electrically to check the ports opened and closed as expected. confirming which way round it operated.
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